Yugoslavia

May 31

Schwaigern, West Germany to Klagenfurt, Austria

Our Yugoslav adventure began with Oma's insistence that we hadn't eaten enough breakfast—a familiar refrain that followed us with packed rolls and a Berliner for the road. The drive from Schwaigern took us through the heart of Bavaria, following Kurt's suggested route via Nuremberg and Munich rather than Stuttgart. As we wound through the German countryside, the landscape gradually shifted from rolling hills to the dramatic peaks of the Austrian Alps.

The highway offered spectacular vistas, and we made frequent stops for fuel and refreshments. When rain began to fall, we transformed our car into a mobile dining room, enjoying our picnic lunch while watching the droplets dance across the windshield. By evening, we had crossed back into Austria and discovered a delightful pizzeria where we savored our first proper meal of the journey.

Our campsite at Wörsee near Klagenfurt was a revelation—nestled beside pristine waters and blessed with an almost ethereal solitude. The facilities were immaculate, and the setting so peaceful it felt like we had the entire Austrian countryside to ourselves.

Jun 1

Klagenfurt, Austria to South of Postojna Caves, Yugoslavia

Morning brought the luxury of warm showers before we began our ascent through the Austrian Alps. The journey through mountain tunnels shrouded in fog felt like a passage through a mystical gateway—which, in many ways, it was. At the Yugoslav border, we exchanged our modest $250 for an astounding 2,144,110 dinars, making us instant "millionaires" in Yugoslav currency. The symbolic weight of this transaction would prove prophetic of the economic turbulence that lay ahead for this nation.

Our destination was the remarkable Postojna Cave system, a 24-kilometer network of limestone caverns carved by the Pivka River over millions of years. The tour began with an exhilarating ride on the underground railway—the only karst cave with a railway, built more than 140 years ago. We traveled 3 miles through the subterranean world, marveling at formations that defied imagination.

The cave maintains a constant temperature of around 50 degrees Fahrenheit, providing welcome relief from the summer heat above ground. Our guide led us through chambers adorned with stalactites and stalagmites that resembled frozen waterfalls, Gothic cathedrals, and abstract sculptures. The largest stalagmite, known as the Skyscraper, towers 16 meters high, while the crystal white symbol of Postojna Cave—the Brilliant—gleamed like a beacon in the cavern's depths.

Finding accommodation proved more challenging than expected, but we eventually discovered a family-operated campsite with a distinctly Yugoslav character. We were the only tourists among friendly locals who welcomed us with drinks overlooking the dramatic Adriatic coastline that stretched endlessly toward the horizon.

Jun 2

South of Postojna Caves to Trogir, Yugoslavia

We awoke to rain-soaked skies and departed without our usual morning showers, eager to reach the coast. The drive to Zadar tested our nerves with narrow mountain roads that snaked through clouds and mist, offering precipitous views of the Adriatic far below. Our only companions on this treacherous but magnificent route were herds of goats and their weathered shepherds, who seemed to navigate these heights with supernatural ease.

Unfortunately, Zadar failed to capture our imagination, so we pressed onward after a modest lunch at a roadside café. A serendipitous encounter with an elderly woman selling cherries provided both sustenance and a glimpse into the simple commerce of rural Yugoslavia.

Our afternoon destination was Primošten, a jewel of a fishing village built on a small island and crowned with an ancient church. The village possessed an almost dreamlike quality—quiet, quaint, and seemingly untouched by the modern world. We enjoyed drinks at the docks, watching fishing boats bob gently in the harbor while local children played along the waterfront.

The evening brought us to Trogir, and we immediately understood why this UNESCO World Heritage site is considered one of the best-preserved Romanesque-Gothic complexes in Central Europe. The orthogonal street plan of this island settlement dates back to the Hellenistic period and was embellished by successive rulers with fine public and domestic buildings and fortifications.

Walking through Trogir's narrow alleys and archways felt like stepping into a living museum. The limestone streets gleamed in the evening light, and every corner revealed architectural treasures spanning centuries. We sampled the local beer—surprisingly potent at 12% alcohol—before retiring to our campground with minds full of medieval imagery.

Jun 3

Trogir to Drvenik, Yugoslavia

Our morning began with a practical mission: finding a campsite with superior bathroom facilities. We first stopped in Split to investigate ferry prices to Italy, keeping our options open for the remainder of our journey. The port city bustled with activity, but our hearts were drawn to the quieter coastal stretches that beckoned southward.

After an hour of driving along rocky coastlines blessed with azure seas, we discovered our ideal refuge outside Drvenik. While we had initially considered an all-nude beach site with spectacular views, the family-friendly atmosphere and superior amenities of our chosen location made it perfect for our needs.

The campsite was blissfully uncongested and positioned directly on the beach, offering unobstructed views of the crystalline Adriatic. We spent the day in complete relaxation—reading, sunbathing, and watching exotic fish dart through the remarkably clear, warm water.

Our evening meal in the resort town of Drvenik proved both surprising and delightful. The town seemed almost abandoned, with only one café serving dinner to just one other couple besides ourselves. The outdoor setting, mere steps from the water's edge, created an intimate atmosphere that transformed a simple meal into a memorable experience.

I had asked the waitress for her recommendation and received a fish steak that rivaled the finest swordfish—perfectly prepared and seasoned. Ann's kebab was equally excellent. Our complete dinner for two, including main courses, two salads, two orders of French fries, and 2.5 liters of beer, cost just $10. Such a value seemed almost surreal, yet it reflected the genuine hospitality and reasonable prices that characterized Yugoslavia in 1989.

We returned to our campsite feeling nourished in both body and spirit, tending to our sun-kissed skin while listening to the gentle lapping of waves against the shore.

Jun 4

Drvenik to Dubrovnik via Mostar

Rain greeted our morning departure as we set course for Mostar, traveling through a lush river valley that showcased Yugoslavia's diverse geography. The contrast between the arid coastal regions and this verdant inland landscape was striking, with the river creating a ribbon of fertility through the mountainous terrain.

Unfortunately, our visit to Mostar proved frustrating. The tourist office was closed, maps proved unhelpful, rain intensified, and decent restaurants were nowhere to be found. Most disappointingly, we never located the famous bridge that gives the city its name—a loss that would become even more poignant given the bridge's later destruction and reconstruction.

Retreating to the river valley, we discovered a charming establishment with a covered patio that provided shelter from the worsening weather. Over several beers, we enjoyed local pork dishes, French fries, and fresh tomato salads. The meal was excellent, and our bill of 94,000 dinars (approximately $6.92) reinforced our growing appreciation for Yugoslav hospitality and value.

As evening approached, we located a campsite about 12 miles north of Dubrovnik, known as the "Pearl of the Adriatic". This facility was by far the most modern we had encountered in Yugoslavia, suggesting the country's commitment to developing its tourism infrastructure.

We weathered the storm by reading and napping, then ventured to the campsite restaurant for drinks on the patio. Local music provided a perfect soundtrack to our first evening near one of Europe's most celebrated medieval cities.

Jun 5

Dubrovnik, Yugoslavia

After refreshing morning showers, we drove to Dubrovnik under partly cloudy skies, anticipating our encounter with this legendary city. The approach through small coastal ports heightened our excitement, with each village offering glimpses of the architectural treasures that awaited us.

Dubrovnik became an important Mediterranean sea power from the 13th century onwards. Although severely damaged by an earthquake in 1667, it managed to preserve its beautiful Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque churches, monasteries, palaces, and fountains. We parked outside the Old Town and entered on foot, immediately captivated by the narrow walkways that wound between ancient stone buildings.

The city walls proved to be our most memorable experience. These fortifications run a course of about 6,365 feet in length, encircling most of the old city, and reach a maximum height of about 80 feet. Walking the complete circuit was demanding but rewarded us with outstanding views of the medieval city, the sparkling Adriatic, and the surrounding mountains.

Our lunch at a pizzeria in Old Town proved disappointing. Slow service, mediocre food, and incomplete orders made it our most expensive and least satisfying meal in Yugoslavia. The contrast with our consistently excellent dining experiences elsewhere in the country was stark, perhaps reflecting the tourist-focused nature of this particular establishment.

Despite the lunch disappointment, we thoroughly enjoyed exploring the Old Town's marble-paved streets, sampling local ice cream, and purchasing American newspapers to catch up with world events. The city's beauty and historical significance were undeniable, making it easy to understand why UNESCO inscribed the Old City of Dubrovnik as a World Heritage Site in 1979.

Our afternoon drive south revealed stunning panoramic views of Dubrovnik from elevated positions along the coast, but we found no suitable camping facilities in that direction. Remembering our wonderful experience near Drvenik, we reversed course and returned to our beloved campsite, where we enjoyed another excellent dinner at our favorite restaurant. This time, we rewarded our exceptional waitress with the tip we had withheld from the disappointing Dubrovnik establishment—a small gesture that brought her evident joy.

Jun 6 - 8

Drvenik, Yugoslavia

Our final days in Yugoslavia unfolded at a leisurely pace beside the Adriatic at Drvenik, where we had found our perfect coastal sanctuary. Despite initially cloudy skies and cooler temperatures on Tuesday, we made the most of our time by reading, organizing our belongings, and exploring different restaurants in the village.

A lunch at a quaint establishment near the small marina introduced us to perfectly grilled pork chops accompanied by fresh salads and French fries. Though slightly more expensive at 250,000 dinars (about $7), it ranked among our finest meals in Yugoslavia.

Tuesday evening brought a delightful discovery—a secluded campsite on the ocean's edge, isolated from other visitors by at least 150 yards in all directions. Though the bathroom facilities weren't quite as luxurious, the privacy and direct beach access more than compensated. John prepared a wonderful fresh vegetable salad from market purchases, and we dined while watching the sun set over the Adriatic.

Wednesday delivered the perfect beach weather we had been hoping for—crystalline skies and gentle breezes. Our day began with fresh bread, orange juice, and beer from the local market, enjoyed on a blanket overlooking the sea. The morning and afternoon were spent on the beach, reading and soaking up the Mediterranean sun. The water proved refreshingly cool for swimming, and the sea breeze prevented overheating.

Thursday continued this idyllic pattern. The morning market run became a pleasant ritual, followed by strong coffee at the local restaurant. Beach time was perfect—warm with barely a trace of wind. John borrowed snorkeling gear from friendly German campers and explored the underwater world, though increasing wind eventually curtailed his aquatic adventures.

Our final evening in Drvenik took us to the southern portion of the village for dinner at a seaside café. We shared two entrées—stuffed green peppers and a mixed grill platter—accompanied by fresh salads, French fries, and beer. The meal was sublime, and watching the sunset over the Adriatic from our waterfront table provided a perfect conclusion to our time in this coastal paradise.

Jun 9

Drvenik to Izola, Yugoslavia

Our departure from Drvenik was bittersweet. After Ann's final market run for supplies, we completed our checkout formalities—four nights of seaside bliss for just 422,400 dinars (approximately $21.50).

The northward coastal drive began at 8:45 a.m. with Rijeka as our intended destination. The journey offered spectacular scenery as we retraced portions of our southbound route, stopping for lunch at a roadside café outside Zadar. The meal of French fries, kebabs, and mixed salads provided perfect fuel for the road ahead.

At Senj, we paused for refreshments before pressing on to Rijeka. Upon reaching that port city, we decided to continue north to a campsite near the Italian border at Kozina, just a few kilometers from Trieste. This facility offered immaculate accommodations and served as our final Yugoslav overnight stop.

The evening was spent dining at the campsite restaurant while listening to local radio programs—a peaceful conclusion to our extraordinary Yugoslav adventure.

Jun 10

Izola, Yugoslavia to Lago di Garda, Italy

Our early morning departure at 6:45 a.m. included final showers and breakfast before settling our account (140,000 dinars, about $10). A cappuccino at the adjacent restaurant provided the perfect send-off from Yugoslavia.

The border crossing proved time-consuming, with long queues of vehicles waiting to enter Italy. While Ann remained with our van, John walked to a nearby market to spend our remaining dinars—currency that could not be exchanged elsewhere. He purchased water and an enormous chocolate bar, ensuring no Yugoslav money was wasted.

After more than thirty minutes in line, we reached the border guards, presented our papers, and officially concluded our Yugoslav adventure. As we drove into Italy, we carried with us memories of extraordinary landscapes, remarkable historical sites, warm hospitality, and incredible value that made our journey through Yugoslavia unforgettable.