Venice - Italy
A Journey Through the Floating City and Beyond
In June 1989, we found ourselves on one of Europe's most extraordinary adventures—crossing from Yugoslavia into Italy and stepping into the magical world of Venice, the floating city that has captivated travelers for centuries. This particular chapter of our journey took us from the Yugoslav coastal town of Izola through the bureaucratic dance of border crossings and onto the storied canals of La Serenissima, before retreating to the serene shores of Lago di Garda and onward to the alpine splendor of Switzerland. What unfolded was a tale of contrasts: the bustling tourist energy of Venice's piazzas against the tranquil mountain lakes, the weight of history in every Byzantine mosaic against the freedom of the open road. Venice revealed itself not just as a destination, but as a transformative experience that reminded us why we ramble the globe in the first place.
LOCATION | Venice, Italy |
DATES | June 10, 1989 |
PHOTOS | |
LODGING | Van camping |
ARRIVAL | Driving from Yugoslavia |
DEPARTURE | Driving to Switzerland |
"Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go."
— Truman Capote
Days & Discoveries
Jun 10 | Izola, Yugoslavia to Lago di Garda, Italy Dawn broke early over the Adriatic coastline as we stirred at 6:45 AM in our Yugoslav campsite, the salty breeze carrying hints of the adventure that lay ahead. After settling our modest bill of 140,000 dinars (roughly $10—a reminder of Yugoslavia's economic struggles), we savored what would be our last Croatian coffee and cappuccino before embarking on one of Europe's most dramatic border crossings.
The car queue stretched endlessly toward the Italian frontier, a testament to the peninsula's magnetic pull. While Ann maintained our place in line, I seized the opportunity to rid ourselves of the last dinars—currency that, once purchased, could never be exchanged back. A bottle of water and an enormous chocolate bar seemed like prudent investments for the journey ahead.
After thirty minutes of bureaucratic patience, we crossed into Italy and were immediately struck by the subtle but unmistakable change in atmosphere. The money exchange at the border marked more than just a currency conversion; it was our official entry into the heart of Mediterranean Europe.
The highway to Venice unfolded like a ribbon toward one of the world's most impossible cities. As we approached the lagoon, the Ponte della Libertà (Liberty Bridge) came into view—a remarkable feat of engineering designed in 1932 by engineer Eugenio Miozzi and opened in 1933. This bridge, the only vehicular access to the historical centre of Venice, carried us across the shimmering waters of the Venetian lagoon, offering our first glimpse of the city that seems to float impossibly on the sea.
Parking in Venice requires strategy and patience. We ascended to the eighth floor of a garage near Piazzale Roma, the terminus where all terrestrial transportation must yield to Venice's aquatic highways. The sight of the Grand Canal from our first vantage point was nothing short of breathtaking—a broad highway of green water flanked by palazzos that have witnessed centuries of maritime commerce and political intrigue.
John's hunger demanded immediate attention (bratwurst proving to be an international language), before we began our exploration of this city where there are no normal roads in the tourist parts of the city. Venice operates on an entirely different logic—one governed by tides, bridges, and the gentle lapping of water against ancient stone.
Our quest for lunch led us through a labyrinth of bridges and campos (squares) to an outdoor café where we discovered the first rule of Venetian dining: location commands premium prices. The pizza and beer were excellent, though our wallets felt considerably lighter. Such is the tax of dining in one of the world's most visited cities.
The real prize awaited us at San Marco Square, where we joined the age-old Venetian tradition of feeding the pigeons—a practice that has entertained visitors for generations. St Mark's Basilica, the cathedral church of the Patriarchate of Venice, holds the relics of Saint Mark the Evangelist, the patron saint of the city. Walking through the basilica was like stepping into a jewel box—every surface gleaming with Byzantine mosaics that tell the story of faith and empire.
The ascent of the clock tower offered a bird's-eye perspective of this impossible city, revealing the intricate pattern of canals and bridges that form Venice's urban fabric. From this height, one truly grasps how Venice exists in defiance of conventional city planning, spread across more than a hundred islands that make up Venice.
Our afternoon discovery of the vaporetto system proved revelatory. These water buses offer the perfect perspective for understanding Venice's Grand Canal, which serves as the city's main thoroughfare. The Canal Grande is one of the widest canals, and riding its length provides an ever-changing tableau of Gothic palazzos, busy markets, and the constant ballet of gondolas and water taxis.
After acquiring souvenirs (a T-shirt and charm to commemorate our visit) and remarkably finding an English-language newspaper, we returned to discover our parking fee had reached 27,000 lire (about $20). In Venice, even parking comes with a premium, but the security and convenience proved worth every lira.
As evening approached, we retreated 50 miles west to Lago di Garda, one of Italy's largest and most beautiful lakes. After the sensory overload of Venice, the lake's serene waters provided the perfect counterpoint. John prepared a fresh salad with lettuce purchased in Venice—a simple meal that tasted extraordinary after our day of exploration.
The sunset walk along Lago di Garda offered time for reflection on Venice's unique place in world civilization. Here, surrounded by the peaceful Alpine foothills, we could process the day's experiences: the remarkable engineering that keeps Venice afloat, the artistic treasures that survive from the height of the Venetian Republic, and the ongoing challenge of preserving such a fragile urban ecosystem. |         |
Our Learnings
Logistical Realities: The Ponte della Libertà is the only vehicular access to the historical centre of Venice, making arrival planning crucial. Parking costs significantly impact budget calculations, but the security and convenience justify the expense.
Historical Depth: In 1807, St Mark's Basilica became the episcopal seat of the Patriarch of Venice, replacing the earlier cathedral of San Pietro di Castello. The city's religious and political history intertwine at every corner, creating layers of meaning that reward careful observation.
Urban Innovation: Venice's vaporetto system represents urban transportation adapted to unique geographical constraints. There are about 177 canals creating a network that defies conventional city planning while functioning remarkably effectively.
Cultural Preservation: The challenge of maintaining Venice's delicate balance between tourism, preservation, and daily life becomes apparent immediately. Every visit contributes to both the city's economic vitality and its ongoing preservation challenges.
Geographic Context: Understanding Venice requires appreciating its relationship to the broader Venetian lagoon and the Italian mainland. The city exists in constant dialogue with water, weather, and the geological forces that shaped the northern Adriatic.
Economic Realities: Venice charges premium prices for virtually everything, reflecting its unique character and appeal to international visitors. Budget accordingly, and remember that the experience often justifies the cost.