Terceira - Azores (2019)

Jul 17

The Bridge Between Two Worlds

Our journey began with something remarkable: a direct flight from Oakland International Airport (OAK) to Terceira's Lajes Airport (TER) aboard an Azores Airlines Airbus A340. This isn't just any flight route—it's a lifeline connecting two communities separated by an ocean but united by deep cultural bonds.

The Oakland-Terceira route exists because of the substantial Azorean diaspora in Northern California, particularly in the East Bay and Central Valley. Over 300,000 people of Azorean descent call California home, many of whom maintain strong ties to their ancestral islands. This weekly summer service, operated since the early 2000s, remains the sole nonstop service from the US western states to the Atlantic Ocean archipelago.

As we settled into our seats for the 11-hour journey, we found ourselves surrounded by families anticipating homecomings and reunions. The flight attendants seamlessly switched between English, Portuguese, and the distinctive Azorean dialect, creating an atmosphere that felt less like commercial aviation and more like a community gathering in the sky. Children slept across their parents' laps while grandparents shared photo albums of relatives waiting on the island—this wasn't tourism; this was homecoming.

Flying eastward through the night, we watched the sunrise paint the Atlantic in shades of gold and rose before Terceira appeared below us like a green paradise floating in an endless blue sea. The approach into Lajes Airport offered our first glimpse of the island's distinctive patchwork landscape—tiny fields bordered by dark volcanic stone walls stretching from volcanic peaks to dramatic coastlines. Even from 10,000 feet, we could see the famous hydrangea hedgerows that would soon become one of our favorite discoveries.

Jul 18

Finding Our Azorean Home and First Wonders

After clearing customs at the compact but efficient Lajes Airport, we drove through winding country roads to São Brás, where we discovered our home for the week. Our accommodation, found through local networks rather than international booking sites, turned out to be one of the trip's greatest surprises.

Durate, our host, exemplified the Azorean spirit we would encounter throughout our stay. A local craftsman and storyteller, he had spent years transforming a traditional rural property into an authentic Azorean retreat that felt like stepping into the pages of a Portuguese countryside magazine. The house, built from local volcanic stone with traditional tile work, featured thick walls that kept the interior cool, wooden shutters that opened to reveal gardens bursting with hydrangeas and camellias, and a kitchen stocked with local specialties including fresh cheese, honey, and wine from Terceira's volcanic slopes.

Durate spent our first hour not just showing us around the property, but teaching us about the island. He explained how the stone walls we'd seen from the plane—called "paredões"—were built by hand from volcanic rock to protect crops from the constant Atlantic winds. He pointed out native plants in his garden and shared stories of island traditions, from the summer festivals celebrating the Holy Spirit to the unique Azorean bullfighting, where the bulls are never harmed.

Eager to explore, we drove to Praia da Vitória, the island's second-largest city and home to its most significant beach. The town, whose name means "Victory Beach," earned its designation after a crucial 1829 battle that helped secure Portuguese independence. But today, it felt peaceful and welcoming, with its wide Avenida Beira-Mar lined with cafés and the massive stretch of golden sand that comprises the largest beach in the Azores.

The drive revealed our first encounter with Terceira's signature blue hydrangeas. Mile after mile of country roads are bordered by hedgerows of these massive flowering bushes, creating tunnels of azure blue that change with the seasons. The volcanic soil, naturally acidic due to centuries of eruptions, creates the perfect conditions for these spectacular displays. In July, they were at their peak, creating what felt like driving through a living watercolor painting.

We climbed to the overlook above Praia da Vitória for a panoramic view that encompassed the town's red-tile roofs, the sweeping beach, and the patchwork agricultural landscape that extends inland. From this vantage point, the island's geological history becomes visible—layers of different volcanic epochs creating the distinctive topography that makes Terceira both dramatically beautiful and surprisingly fertile.

Our day concluded near Lajes Airport, where we watched planes arrive and depart on the runway that had served as both a crucial Atlantic refueling stop and, during World War II, a strategic American air base. The airport's location on a plateau provides spectacular views of the island's south coast, and watching the weekly Azores Airlines flight prepare for its return journey to California reminded us of the remarkable journey that had brought us here.

Jul 19

Journey to the Earth's Heart

Our second day took us into Terceira's volcanic interior, beginning with a drive to Furnas do Enxofre, one of the most geologically active areas on the island. The name translates to "Sulfur Furnaces," and the site lives up to its dramatic designation.

Furnas do Enxofre represents active volcanic processes, with fumaroles—openings in the earth's crust—releasing hot gases and vapors at temperatures that can exceed 200°F. The boardwalk trail winds through this otherworldly landscape where steam rises from the ground and the air carries the distinctive scent of volcanic sulfur. Despite the dramatic setting, the trail is easily accessible, allowing visitors to safely observe these geological phenomena up close.

The contrast between the steaming ground and the lush vegetation surrounding the fumarole field perfectly illustrates Terceira's character—a place where dramatic natural forces coexist with abundant life. Endemic plants and moss thrive in the mineral-rich environment, creating an almost prehistoric atmosphere.

From Furnas do Enxofre, we continued to the Santa Bárbara area for our hike to discover a lava tube. These underground formations, created when molten lava flows create natural tunnels, offer a fascinating glimpse into the island's volcanic past. Our particular lava tube, accessible through a modest entrance hidden among the vegetation, opened into a spacious underground chamber where we could walk upright while observing the smooth walls carved by ancient lava flows.

The afternoon's highlight was our visit to the Lighthouse of Ponta das Contendas, located along the promontory of Contendas on the south-east corner of the island. This lighthouse, with its distinctive 13-meter-high white prismatic tower topped by a red cupola, has been guiding mariners since 1934. Situated 54 meters above sea level on the edge of a high cliff, the lighthouse offers spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean and the island's dramatic southern coastline.

The drive to Ponta das Contendas lighthouse passes through some of Terceira's most scenic countryside, with views extending across the agricultural landscape to distant volcanic peaks. The lighthouse itself, though not always open for interior tours, provides an excellent vantage point for understanding the island's position in the Atlantic and appreciating the dramatic meeting of land and sea that characterizes this part of Terceira.

Our day culminated with a visit to Algar do Carvão, perhaps Terceira's most extraordinary natural attraction. The Algar do Carvão (Cavern of Coal) is an ancient lava tube or volcanic vent located in the central part of the island. The Portuguese word "algar" denotes a natural cavity in the earth that is more vertical in orientation, like a well, while "carvão" refers to the dark, blackened composition of the volcanic rocks.

The first descent into this volcanic cavern was accomplished on January 26, 1893, by Cândido Corvelo and Luis Sequeira using only a simple rope. Today, visitors can safely descend via an illuminated stairway system into what is essentially the throat of an ancient volcano.

The descent into Algar do Carvão is like entering a natural cathedral. The underground lagoon, with a surface of at most 400 square meters and reaching a maximum depth of 15 meters, is fed by rainfall infiltration and some small springs. The walls of the lava tube are adorned with unique silica stalactites and formations that exist in very few places on Earth.

Standing in the underground chamber, looking up through the volcanic chimney toward a circle of sky visible far above, provides a humbling perspective on the immense geological forces that created these islands. The air inside maintains a constant cool temperature and high humidity, creating an environment where unique plant species grow in the filtered light that penetrates from above.

Jul 20

Circumnavigating Paradise

We dedicated our third day to driving the island's circumference, a journey of approximately 62 miles that revealed Terceira's incredible diversity of landscapes and communities. The coastal road takes travelers through dramatic changes in scenery, from black volcanic rock formations to green pasturelands, from fishing villages to thermal springs.

Our route took us through numerous small villages, each with its own character and history. We stopped in Biscoitos, famous for its natural swimming pools carved from volcanic rock and its traditional wine culture. The village's name, which means "biscuits" in Portuguese, refers to the distinctive volcanic rock formations that resemble baked goods. Here, we walked among the natural pools where crystal-clear Atlantic water is warmed by dark volcanic stone, creating perfect conditions for swimming even when the ocean is too rough for beach activities.

Continuing along the northern coast, we discovered the Serreta Lighthouse area, where dramatic cliffs drop precipitously into the Atlantic. The coastline here demonstrates the raw power of volcanic activity, with layers of different lava flows visible in the cliff faces and sea stacks rising from the churning waters below.

The villages of São Brás, Doze Ribeiras, and Agualva each offered their own insights into traditional Azorean life. Stone houses with red tile roofs line narrow streets, while small fields protected by volcanic stone walls stretch toward distant volcanic peaks. We stopped frequently to photograph the endless hedgerows of hydrangeas, which in this season created tunnels of blue flowers that seemed to stretch to the horizon.

The eastern part of our circuit took us through Praia da Vitória's rural surroundings, where the landscape opens into broader agricultural plains. Here, the famous "patchwork" effect of Terceira's landscape is most pronounced—hundreds of small fields divided by dark stone walls create a pattern that's visible from space and has become one of the island's signature images.

Each village seemed to have its own small church, often dating back several centuries. Many featured the distinctive "Império" buildings associated with the Festa do Espírito Santo, the Holy Spirit festivals that are central to Azorean culture. These small, brightly painted structures serve as community centers for religious celebrations and social gatherings that have remained largely unchanged for generations.

Jul 21

When Plans Change for the Better

Sometimes the most memorable travel experiences come from the unexpected. Our planned departure to Flores Island became one of those perfectly imperfect moments that made our trip even more special.

We arrived at Lajes Airport excited about our inter-island flight to Flores, often called the most beautiful island in the Azores for its dramatic waterfalls and pristine lakes. After checking in and proceeding to the small departure area, we watched our ATR-42 aircraft taxi to the gate. But as boarding time approached, an announcement informed us that weather conditions at Flores Airport would delay our departure.

For about 45 minutes, we waited in the small but comfortable departure lounge, watching weather updates and hoping conditions would improve. The Azores' weather is famously unpredictable—the islands sit directly in the path of Atlantic weather systems, and conditions can change rapidly. Finally, the airline made the decision we'd been dreading: the flight was cancelled due to persistent poor weather at our destination.

Here's where Azores Airlines demonstrated why they've earned such loyalty among travelers. Rather than simply rebooking us for the next available flight, they immediately arranged accommodation for our unexpected extra night. More importantly, they chose to place us in the Hotel Aroris Angra Garden, located in the very heart of Angra do Heroísmo.

Angra do Heroísmo, founded in 1478, was historically the most important city in the Azores. It served as the seat of the Bishop of the Azores and government entities, and previously served as the capital city of Portugal during the Liberal Wars. Queen Maria II granted the city the epithet "do Heroísmo" ("of Heroism") to commemorate its citizens' successful defense of the island against a Miguelist assault in 1829.

Associated with the Discoveries during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, Angra do Heroísmo served as an obligatory port of call for fleets traveling between Europe, Africa, and the Americas. In 1983, UNESCO classified it as a World Heritage Site. The city's Renaissance grid street pattern and its collection of churches, palaces, and fortifications represent one of the finest examples of Portuguese colonial urban planning.

Our room at the Aroris Angra Garden overlooked the main square, Praça Velha, with the marina visible in the distance. From our window, we could see the geometric perfection of the Renaissance city plan, with its straight streets radiating from central squares—a design that was revolutionary when it was created and has been perfectly preserved through the centuries.

After dinner, we wandered through Angra's illuminated streets, discovering a French band performing in the main square. The music echoed off the centuries-old buildings, creating an atmosphere that felt both timeless and magical. Locals and visitors mingled in the square, children played around the fountain, and the entire scene felt like something from a European fairy tale.

Walking through Angra at night revealed the city's architectural treasures in a different light. The Igreja da Misericórdia, with its distinctive blue and white façade, glowed softly in the streetlights. The narrow cobblestone streets, lined with colorful buildings featuring traditional Azorean architectural details, felt like walking through living history.

The unexpected detour turned into one of our trip's highlights, reminding us that some of travel's greatest gifts come not from perfect planning but from remaining open to the surprises that arise along the way.

Jul 22

Island Hopping in Paradise

The next morning brought clear skies and our successful departure to Flores aboard an Azores Airlines ATR-42-400. Flying between the Azorean islands offers a unique perspective on this scattered archipelago, revealing how each island has its own distinct personality despite its shared volcanic origins.

Azores Airlines operates inter-island flights connecting all nine islands of the archipelago, using smaller aircraft perfectly suited for the short distances between islands. The ATR-42-400 aircraft, with its high wings and excellent visibility, provides passengers with spectacular aerial views of the volcanic landscapes below.

Our flight path took us over the central group of islands, offering bird's-eye views of São Jorge's distinctive ridge-like profile, Pico's towering volcanic peak, and Faial's circular caldera. The 40-minute flight demonstrated the incredible diversity packed into this small archipelago—each island clearly showing its unique volcanic history and resulting topography.

Flying with Azores Airlines feels distinctly different from mainland European carriers. The crews often know passengers by name, especially those making connections between family visits on different islands. Flight attendants move easily between Portuguese and English, and the overall atmosphere feels more like a regional bus service than international aviation—in the best possible way.

The approach to Flores Airport revealed why our previous day's flight had been cancelled. The small runway, carved from volcanic rock on the island's plateau, requires precise flying conditions. Flores' dramatic topography and position at the western edge of the archipelago make it particularly susceptible to Atlantic weather patterns.

Jul 23 - Aug 3

Aug 4

Returning to Terceira from São Miguel

After our adventures on Flores and a subsequent visit to São Miguel, we returned to Terceira for our final days in the Azores. The inter-island flight from São Miguel's João Paulo II Airport back to Terceira provided another opportunity to appreciate Azores Airlines' island-hopping service.

The aircraft used for this route, another ATR-42, perfectly demonstrates how aviation serves these remote Atlantic islands. During the flight, passengers can observe the dramatic differences between São Miguel's vast Sete Cidades and Furnas calderas and Terceira's more scattered volcanic peaks. The 25-minute flight offers spectacular views of the ocean between the islands, where whales and dolphins are often visible from the air.

Returning to Terceira felt like coming home to an old friend. The familiar patchwork of fields divided by black stone walls, the blue hydrangea hedgerows, and the red-tile roofs of scattered villages welcomed us back to the island that had already captured our hearts during our first stay.

Later that afternoon, we discovered we'd arrived on a special day in Portuguese sports—the Supertaça Cândido de Oliveira, Portugal's Super Cup match that traditionally kicks off the Portuguese football season. The match pitted Benfica, winners of the 2018-19 Primeira Liga, against Sporting CP, winners of the 2018-19 Taça de Portugal.

We walked into São Mateus da Calheta, the charming fishing village on Terceira's south coast known for its excellent seafood restaurants and authentic local atmosphere. Ducking into a local bar/café, we found it absolutely packed with supporters, almost entirely men, all wearing the green and white colors of Sporting CP. The atmosphere was electric—this wasn't just a football match but a matter of regional and personal pride.

Azorean communities, despite their distance from mainland Portugal, maintain passionate connections to Portuguese football, and Sporting CP seemed to have particularly strong support in this corner of Terceira. The locals welcomed us warmly, explaining the significance of the match and sharing stories about their favorite players. Drinks flowed, conversations grew animated, and we found ourselves completely absorbed in the infectious energy of Portuguese football culture.

Unfortunately for our new friends, Benfica dominated the match completely, defeating Sporting CP 5-0 in what became a surprisingly one-sided affair. As the goals mounted, the mood in the café shifted from hopeful cheering to resigned disappointment, but the camaraderie never wavered. Even in defeat, the Sporting supporters maintained their good humor, buying rounds for fellow supporters and already looking ahead to the upcoming season.

The experience gave us an unexpected window into how deeply Portuguese culture permeates life in the Azores, connecting these Atlantic islands to the mainland through shared passions and loyalties.

Aug 5

Last Day Discoveries and Unexpected Entertainment

Our final full day in the Azores began with lunch at a local restaurant in Angra do Heroísmo, where we savored one last meal of fresh Azorean seafood and local specialties. The restaurant, typical of many in the historic center, occupied a building dating back several centuries, with thick stone walls and traditional azulejo tile work that told stories of the island's maritime heritage.

During our meal, we noticed posters advertising a bullfight scheduled for that evening at the local arena. Azorean bullfighting, called "touradas à corda," represents a unique tradition quite different from Spanish or mainland Portuguese bullfighting. In the Azorean version, bulls are never harmed—instead, young men test their courage by facing bulls secured by long ropes, allowing the animals to charge but preventing serious injury to either bulls or participants.

Intrigued by this cultural experience, we purchased tickets and spent the remainder of the afternoon wandering through Angra's UNESCO-protected streets. We visited the Sé Cathedral, with its impressive Manueline architectural details, and climbed to the Jardim Duque da Terceira for panoramic views over the city and bay.

In the late afternoon, gathering clouds gathered, and by evening, steady rain was falling over Angra. We arrived at the bullring to find disappointed locals and tourists alike waiting under umbrellas and covered areas, hoping the weather would clear. After about an hour of waiting, event organizers decided to cancel the evening's performance—the safety of both participants and bulls required dry conditions.

The experience of getting tickets refunded perfectly illustrated Azorean hospitality and efficiency. There was no complicated paperwork, no arguments about weather policies—simply a friendly attendant at the gate who handed back our money in cash with a smile and an apology for the weather. Even our disappointment at missing this cultural experience became a positive memory of how gracefully the local community handled unexpected situations.

Aug 6

Farewell to Paradise

Before heading to the airport for our departure, we made one final pilgrimage to Monte Brasil, the dramatic volcanic peninsula that guards the entrance to Angra do Heroísmo's bay. This extinct volcanic cone, connected to the mainland by a narrow isthmus, served as our perfect farewell to Terceira's extraordinary landscapes.

The drive up Monte Brasil's winding roads took us through the Recreational Forest Reserve, where hiking trails wind between endemic vegetation and spectacular viewpoints. We stopped at the Pico das Cruzinhas viewpoint, where a monument celebrates the Portuguese discoveries and offers what many consider the finest panoramic view in all the Azores. From this 541-foot summit, the entire sweep of Angra do Heroísmo spreads below us like a living map—the UNESCO World Heritage city center with its geometric Renaissance street pattern, the protective harbor that made this place so strategically important, and the patchwork agricultural landscape extending toward distant volcanic peaks.

The view from Monte Brasil perfectly encapsulated everything we'd discovered about Terceira: the harmonious blend of dramatic natural forces and human adaptation, the way history and geography have shaped this remarkable island culture, and the breathtaking beauty that rewards those who take time to truly see. We could spot the Fort of São João Baptista, the massive 17th-century fortress that still stands guard over the harbor, and trace the defensive walls that once protected this crucial Atlantic outpost.

Standing there in the morning light, with the Atlantic stretching endlessly toward the horizon and the island's volcanic peaks rising behind us, we felt the full weight of leaving this magical place. Monte Brasil had given us the perfect vantage point to say goodbye—not just to see Terceira one last time, but to understand our place in the long history of travelers who had found refuge, wonder, and transformation on these remarkable islands.

After capturing final photos and breathing in the fresh Atlantic air one last time, we began our drive to Lajes Airport for the return flight to Oakland. Check-in for the weekly California flight revealed the deep cultural connections this route serves. Families stood in line with multiple suitcases filled with Azorean specialties: wheels of São Jorge cheese (some weighing over 50 pounds), boxes of traditional sweets from local convents, bottles of wine from volcanic slopes, and carefully wrapped packages of linguiça sausage.

One memorable fellow passenger was transporting homemade soup in a sealed container—a grandmother's recipe being carried across an ocean to family in California. The airline staff, clearly accustomed to these culinary exports, handled each package with care and understanding. These weren't just souvenirs; they were edible connections between separated families.

As our Airbus A340 lifted off from Terceira and turned west toward California, we watched the island shrink below us until it disappeared into the vast Atlantic. The 11-hour flight gave us time to process the experiences of our two weeks in this extraordinary archipelago, but more importantly, to begin planning our inevitable return.

Looking back through our photos during the flight—hydrangea tunnels, volcanic caves, historic streets, dramatic coastlines—we realized that Terceira had given us something more valuable than beautiful vacation memories. It had shown us a different way of experiencing the world, where rushing is replaced by savoring, where every meal becomes a celebration, and where the journey matters as much as the destination.