Terceira - Azores (2024)

Jun 6

Arrival and Street Bullfighting Traditions

Our reunion with Terceira began exactly as we had hoped—with familiar faces and traditional accommodations. Duarte, our gracious host from 2019, had left our rental car at the airport with the key hidden inside, a level of trust that perfectly embodies Azorean hospitality. His expanding business now offers additional lodging spaces alongside traditional quintas, demonstrating how local entrepreneurship adapts while preserving cultural authenticity.

The short drive to São Brás brought us back to our traditional Azorean cottage, a perfect example of the island's distinctive architecture. Built from volcanic lava rock mortared with lime, featuring traditional wooden windows, terra cotta tile roof, and stone floors worn smooth by generations of inhabitants, the cottage represents centuries of adaptation to Atlantic weather and local materials. The traditional oven remains functional, supplemented by modern conveniences that allow contemporary life while preserving historical character.

The evening brought unexpected cultural immersion when Duarte mentioned that the adjacent village of Lajedo would host traditional rope bullfighting in the streets. This touradas à corda represents one of Terceira's most distinctive traditions, believed to be one of the most ancient recreational activities in the Azores archipelago. The first reference to rope bullfighting appears in 1622, during celebrations in Angra for the canonization of São Francisco Xavier and Santo Inácio de Loyola, though these popular manifestations likely existed much earlier.

Rope bullfighting is a cherished cultural and community gathering, with Terceira hosting more than 200 festivities annually from May 1st to September 30th. The tradition involves four adult bulls of the breed brava da ilha Terceira along designated roads approximately 500 meters in length, with each bull controlled by a rope around its neck held by eight people.

We parked on the village outskirts and walked into Lajedo, finding viewing spots on the boarded-up porch of a local bar. The atmosphere perfectly blended carnival, local festival, and family celebration as people crowded the streets. All buildings and driveways were protected with plywood barriers—a necessary precaution that transforms entire villages into temporary arenas.

A gunshot announced that bulls would be released in five minutes, sending everyone to protected viewing positions while local men, young and old, strolled with calculated bravado, ready to engage the charging animals. The second gunshot indicated bull release, scattering most participants except experienced local bullfighters engaged with the bull with shouts, opening umbrellas, and touching their horns.

Each bull received exactly 25 minutes to rage through the village, creating spectacle and excitement while bullfighters demonstrated skill, courage, and timing. A final gunshot signaled a successful return to pen, followed by fifteen-minute intermissions for refreshments and socializing before the next release. This Azorean tradition ensures no bulls are harmed, with animals receiving several weeks of rest between performances—a humane approach that distinguishes these events from other forms of bullfighting.

Jun 7

Angra do Heroísmo UNESCO Exploration

The morning brought our drive along Terceira's eastern coast to Angra do Heroísmo, the most beautiful city in all the Azores and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1983. Founded in 1478, Angra served as the historical capital of the Azores and played a crucial role in Portuguese maritime exploration during the Age of Discovery.

Parking outside the historic center, we walked through hilly cobblestone streets toward the marina, where John arranged whale watching for later in our stay. The UNESCO designation recognizes Angra's role as an obligatory port of call for ships traveling between Europe, Africa, and the Americas from the 15th to 19th centuries, making it a crucial stop in global maritime trade networks.

Lunch at a local fish restaurant provided our first taste of Terceira's exceptional seafood cuisine, prepared with the fresh catches that have sustained island communities for centuries. The afternoon was spent wandering through Angra's exceptional streetscapes, admiring the colorful façades, baroque churches, and historic buildings that survived centuries of Atlantic weather and the devastating 1980 earthquake.

Despite significant damage from the January 1, 1980, earthquake that killed 61 people and injured over 400, Angra's historic center was carefully rebuilt within four years to replicate its original form. The reconstruction demonstrated remarkable community determination to preserve cultural heritage, earning UNESCO recognition for both historical significance and post-disaster restoration achievements.

The harmonious blend of Portuguese, Flemish, and Spanish architectural influences creates a unique urban landscape that reflects Terceira's position as a cultural crossroads. The city's fortifications, including the 16th and 17th-century maritime forts, provide testimony to its strategic importance during the age of exploration and continuing relevance in Atlantic defense networks.

Jun 8

Natural Pools and Volcanic Swimming

Our exploration of Terceira's volcanic coastline began with a drive to Praia das Escaleiras, also known as the Vila Nova bathing area. Located in the parish of Vila Nova within the municipality of Praia da Vitória, this natural swimming area exemplifies how Azorean communities have adapted geological formations for recreational use. The name "Escaleiras" (stairs) derives from the initial difficulty people experienced accessing this coastal bathing area.

Despite overcast weather, the natural pools proved quite inviting as we joined others sunbathing and swimming in the Atlantic. A dramatic moment occurred when we spotted a Portuguese man o' war floating near an adult swimmer, immediately alerting him to the danger. All Azorean swimming areas maintain nets specifically for catching these venomous creatures, demonstrating how island communities balance natural enjoyment with marine hazards.

In the afternoon, we visited Praia dos Biscoitos, the most famous of Terceira's natural swimming areas. These pools result from AA-type basaltic flows from ancient volcanic eruptions emitted around 4,500 years ago by Pico Gordo, a volcanic cone in Terceira's central region. The seawater maintains pleasant temperatures, averaging around 70°F during summer months, making these pools ideal for extended swimming and diving.

Located on Terceira's north coast in the parish of Biscoitos within Praia da Vitória municipality, this bathing area became the first on the island to be adapted for public use in 1969. The facility includes complete support infrastructure—bars, showers, changing rooms, and free parking—while maintaining annual Blue Flag certification for environmental quality and safety standards.

In the town of Biscoitos, we visited a traditional Quinta that formerly produced wine and learned about Terceira's viticultural heritage. The parish name derives from the black, fragmented soil formed by volcanic lava, which can appear to be burnt cookies (biscoitos). The lava created ideal conditions for the famous Verdelho wine production that characterized this region for centuries.

Our day concluded with a drive to the observation deck overlooking farmland near Praia da Vitória. The deck provides panoramic views of the agricultural landscape, demonstrating how Terceirans have transformed volcanic terrain into productive farming communities.

Jun 9

Mountain Roads and Artisanal Cheese

The morning brought a scenic drive through Terceira's mountainous interior toward Angra do Heroísmo, revealing the island's dramatic topographical diversity. Our stop in Cinco Ribeiras at a traditional cheese factory provided insight into Azorean dairy traditions that represent centuries of pastoral expertise.

The factory's tasting tray showcased the variety and quality of local cheese production, each variety reflecting specific techniques, aging processes, and flavor profiles that distinguish Terceira's dairy products. Like every Azorean island, Terceira's inhabitants firmly believe their cheese represents the best in the archipelago—a friendly rivalry that drives continuous improvement and innovation.

Our cheese purchases for home transport reflected the quality we discovered during tasting, while conversations with factory staff revealed the pride and dedication that characterizes Azorean artisanal production. These family-operated businesses preserve traditional techniques while adapting to contemporary food safety and distribution requirements.

A return visit to Praia das Escaleiras revealed dramatically different conditions. Extremely rough seas prevented swimming and demonstrated the Atlantic's mercurial nature. The contrast between calm morning conditions and afternoon turbulence provided a perfect illustration of how Azorean weather and sea conditions can change rapidly, requiring flexibility in outdoor planning.

Jun 10

Marine Life and Local Hospitality

John's morning whale watching excursion from Angra's marina provided beautiful weather and ocean conditions, though the whales remained elusive during this particular trip. The presence of a Portuguese Navy vessel in the marina reminded us of Terceira's continuing strategic importance in Atlantic defense and maritime operations.

Lunch at a seaside café in Praia da Vitória epitomized the relaxed, leisurely lifestyle that characterizes Terceira's coastal communities. The unhurried pace, emphasis on conversation, and appreciation for simple pleasures create an atmosphere that invites visitors to slow down and embrace island rhythms.

Dinner at a nearby family-run seafood restaurant provided exceptional hospitality and cuisine that exemplified everything wonderful about Azorean dining culture. The genuine warmth, attention to detail, and pride in local ingredients created an experience that made us feel like welcomed family members rather than mere tourists. After just a few days, we truly felt like locals in this remarkably welcoming community.

Jun 11

Departure and Diaspora Connections

Our departure from Terceira Lajes Airport brought reflection on both our visit and the airport's unique role in Azorean-American connections. Originally constructed in the 1930s and expanded during World War II, Lajes Field shares facilities between Portuguese Air Force operations and civilian passenger services. The airport's 3,300-meter runway represents the longest in the Azores, reflecting its dual military and civilian functions.

Our flight represented a seasonal, direct connection that provides crucial links between the Azores and the large Azorean diaspora in Northern California via Oakland International Airport. This route, operated seasonally during summer months, serves communities established by generations of Azorean emigrants who maintain strong cultural and family connections to their ancestral islands.

As the second flight of the season, our departure carried fewer than half-capacity passengers, typical for early seasonal operations that build throughout summer months. These direct flights eliminate the need for European connections, providing Azorean-Americans with efficient access to family visits, cultural engagement, and homeland exploration.

The flight service represents more than mere transportation—it maintains vital cultural bridges between Azorean communities in California and their island origins. Many passengers carry stories, gifts, and connections that preserve traditions, language, and family relationships across vast Atlantic distances.

As our aircraft lifted off from Terceira, we gained final aerial perspectives on the volcanic landscapes, UNESCO heritage sites, and traditional villages that had defined our week of cultural immersion. Terceira had once again demonstrated why it remains the cultural heart of the Azores, where ancient traditions thrive alongside modern life in perfect harmony.