São Miguel - Azores

Jul 28

Welcome to the Emerald Isle

Our São Miguel adventure began with a short but scenic flight from Flores aboard Azores Airlines. The 90-minute journey offered breathtaking aerial views of the scattered Azorean islands rising from the deep blue Atlantic like ancient sentinels. João Paulo II Airport (PDL) on São Miguel serves as the main gateway to the Azores, handling hundreds of thousands of visitors annually who come to experience this Portuguese paradise.

The airport itself is strategically important as the primary hub connecting the nine Azorean islands with mainland Portugal and international destinations, including the United States, Canada, and various European cities. What began as a modest airfield has evolved into a modern facility that somehow maintains the unhurried charm characteristic of island life.

Our introduction to Azorean hospitality came immediately when Ann discovered she'd left her passport in the airplane seat pocket after we'd disembarked. By the time we realized the oversight, our aircraft had already departed for its next destination. A quick visit to the Azores Airlines counter revealed the remarkable efficiency and kindness of the island community—they'd already located the passport and assured us it would return on the next scheduled flight in two days. Since we were traveling within the Schengen Area, passport control wasn't required, but our car rental did pose a challenge. The rental agency staff proved equally understanding, accepting a digital copy and transferring our reservation to John's name without hesitation.

Our drive from the airport to Povoação showcased São Miguel's remarkable diversity within its compact 287 square miles. The route took us along the island's southern coast, where black volcanic beaches meet impossibly green pastures dotted with Holstein cattle—a reminder of the island's significant dairy industry. The landscape shifts dramatically as you travel, from coastal lowlands to rolling hills covered in endemic Azorean vegetation, creating what locals aptly describe as "Ireland in the tropics."

We stopped for lunch at Praia do Povoação, a charming fishing village where colorful boats bob in a small harbor protected by volcanic stone breakwaters. At a local restaurant, we sampled the catch of the day— fresh fish prepared with simple Portuguese seasonings that allowed the ocean's flavors to shine.

What surprised us was the unexpected presence of Chinese restaurants and Asian residents in this remote Atlantic outpost. Local conversation revealed this stems from the 19th century, when Chinese tea experts from Macau, including Lau-a-Pan and his interpreter Lau-a-Teng, were brought to São Miguel in 1878 to teach the fundamentals of tea cultivation after orange blight devastated the island's primary crop. Their descendants and subsequent immigrants have maintained this connection, supporting Gorreana Tea Plantation, Europe's oldest continuously operating tea factory.

Our accommodation proved to be the most unusual Airbnb we'd ever encountered—a former grain mill converted into a holiday retreat nestled in a private paradise of rushing water, endemic flora, and volcanic stone. Two waterfalls cascaded on either side of the property, creating a natural symphony that would lull us to sleep each night. Wild plants and flowers created a jungle-like canopy, while small fish darted through crystal-clear streams. The location epitomized the Azorean concept of saudade—a uniquely Portuguese feeling of longing and contentment simultaneously. Despite feeling completely secluded in nature, village amenities, including a small market and traditional bar, were conveniently located just 300 feet away.

Jul 29

Northeast Exploration and Europe's Tea Legacy

After a simple breakfast of fresh bread, local cheese, and strong Portuguese coffee at the village café, we set out to explore São Miguel's rugged northeastern region. This corner of the island, known as Nordeste (literally "northeast" in Portuguese), represents one of the most remote and authentic areas of the Azores.

The drive to Nordeste took us through dramatically changing landscapes of lush green fields, spectacular cliffs, waterfalls, and multiple scenic viewpoints called miradouros. These viewpoints are strategically placed along coastal roads to showcase the dramatic meeting point between volcanic land and the Atlantic Ocean. The region's isolated location has preserved its old-world Portuguese character, with whitewashed buildings featuring traditional black volcanic stone trim and red-tiled roofs creating striking contrasts against the verdant landscape.

Nordeste town itself is the center of this picturesque region, featuring extraordinary Portuguese architecture typical of the Azores and serving as a gateway to the island's most dramatic coastal viewpoints. We parked our car and walked through streets that seemed frozen in time, where locals still gather in small shops and cafés to discuss the day's events in the unhurried manner that defines island life.

The crown jewel of our Nordeste exploration was Farol do Arnel (Arnel Lighthouse), the oldest operating lighthouse in the Azores, which began operation on November 26, 1876. Designed by António Alves de Oliveira, this lighthouse features a distinctive 15-meter-high octagonal tower built atop the keeper's residence, standing at an altitude of 66 meters. The lighthouse holds particular significance as it was the first of its kind in the Azorean archipelago, marking a crucial milestone in maritime safety for these remote Atlantic islands.

Access to the lighthouse requires navigating an extremely steep road with gradients reaching 35-55%, which local wisdom strongly advises against driving. Instead, we parked at the designated area and walked the challenging 500-meter descent, which proved strenuous but absolutely worthwhile for the breathtaking coastal views and glimpse into Azorean maritime history.

Our afternoon was dedicated to visiting Gorreana Tea Factory, a remarkable piece of European agricultural history. Established in 1883, Gorreana is Europe's oldest tea plantation and has never closed its doors since its grand opening, creating a 130-year legacy of tea production. The factory represents a fascinating chapter in Azorean resilience and adaptation.

The transition to tea cultivation began when orange blight devastated São Miguel's primary crop by 1864, forcing farmers like José do Canto to seek alternative agriculture. In 1878, the Society for the Promotion of São Miguel Agriculture arranged for two Chinese tea specialists from Macau to teach São Miguel farmers the fundamentals of tea cultivation. This cross-cultural exchange created a unique European tea industry that thrives to this day.

The self-guided tour revealed the fascinating production process, from leaf to cup, using machinery that has remained largely unchanged for over a century. Original tea-processing machines—some over 100 years old—still operate daily, producing the distinctive Azorean teas that are completely organic due to the island's naturally pest-free environment. The volcanic soil and humid Atlantic climate create ideal growing conditions, while the absence of natural tea pests eliminates the need for any pesticides or chemicals.

Gorreana produces several varieties, including black teas (Moinha, Broken Leaf, Pekoe, Orange Pekoe, Orange Pekoe Ponta Branca, and Oolong) and green teas (Hysson, Encosta de Bruma, and Pearl). The tasting room offers complimentary samples while overlooking the geometric patterns of tea bushes cascading down hillsides toward the Atlantic Ocean.

Our evening back at the converted mill felt like stepping into a Swiss Family Robinson adventure. We explored the property's jungle-like terrain, following rushing creeks and discovering hidden waterfalls. The sound of water flowing from two directions created a natural soundtrack that perfectly captured the island's wild beauty and peaceful energy.

Jul 30

Furnas Valley and Vila Franca do Campo

Our day began with an early morning journey to Furnas, one of São Miguel's most extraordinary destinations. Furnas is nestled deep in a verdant valley that represents a dormant volcanic crater, which last erupted in 1630. The 50-kilometer journey from our accommodation took us through dramatically changing landscapes, from coastal lowlands to lush volcanic highlands where the very ground steams with geothermal activity.

What makes Furnas unique is its visible and active volcanic phenomena. The village sits within a giant volcanic crater surrounded by three active trachytic volcanoes, with two large calderas dating back tens of thousands of years. As you approach the town, the unmistakable smell of sulfur fills the air, and steam rises from dozens of fumaroles—holes in the ground that vent hot steam and volcanic gases reaching temperatures of nearly 100°C (212°F).

After our morning exploration of Furnas' volcanic wonders, we drove to Vila Franca do Campo to spend the remainder of our day in this historically significant coastal town. Vila Franca do Campo served as São Miguel's first capital from 1444 to 1546, and retains its colonial Portuguese charm with narrow cobblestone streets, traditional architecture, and a picturesque harbor that has sheltered vessels for centuries.

Our first stop was the famous queijadas da vila—traditional Portuguese pastries that have been made in Vila Franca do Campo for generations. These delicate custard tarts, made with local cheese, sugar, and eggs, represent a perfect example of how Portuguese culinary traditions adapted to available Azorean ingredients. The bakery where we purchased them has been family-owned for decades, maintaining recipes passed down through generations.

Lunch at Atlântico Azorean Restaurant proved to be a highlight of our culinary journey. This family-operated establishment specializes in fresh Atlantic seafood prepared using traditional Azorean methods. The menu featured locally caught fish, prepared simply with olive oil, garlic, and herbs that allowed the ocean's natural flavors to dominate. The restaurant's commitment to sustainable fishing practices and local sourcing reflects the island's deep connection to the sea that surrounds it. The staff's warmth and genuine enthusiasm for sharing their island's culture made the meal memorable beyond the exceptional food.

Our afternoon whale watching adventure from Vila Franca do Campo's harbor offered insights into the Azores' world-renowned marine biodiversity. The Azores are recognized as one of the world's premier whale watching destinations, with up to 10% of all known cetacean species potentially observable during a single three-hour trip. The islands' location along major Atlantic migration routes, combined with year-round resident populations, creates exceptional opportunities for marine wildlife encounters.

The weather initially delayed our departure by an hour, demonstrating how Atlantic conditions can change rapidly in this exposed oceanic environment. We embarked on a zodiac boat with approximately twenty other adventurers, searching the deep waters that surround São Miguel for signs of whales and dolphins. While whales remained elusive during our expedition, the experience of being on the open Atlantic surrounded by volcanic islands provided its own profound rewards.

The tour's highlight was circumnavigating the Ilhéu de Vila Franca do Campo, a small islet formed from the crater of an ancient submerged volcano located approximately 1 kilometer from the coast. This vegetated uninhabited islet consists of the exposed remains of a Surtseyan volcanic cone, heavily eroded by sea and seismic forces over millennia.

The islet features an almost perfectly circular natural lagoon approximately 150 meters in diameter and 20 meters deep, connected to the ocean through a narrow opening called a "boquete" that faces north toward São Miguel. This unique configuration creates a protected natural swimming pool with calm, clear waters ideal for swimming and snorkeling. Since 1983, the regional Legislative Assembly has protected the islet and surrounding waters as a nature reserve, limiting daily visitors to 400 people.

The islet gained international recognition as a venue for the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series, hosting competitions annually from 2010 and 2012-2019, with divers leaping from platforms 27 and 21 meters above the Atlantic Ocean. These dramatic competitions showcase both the islet's natural beauty and its challenging cliff formations to global audiences.

Our regret was not being able to land on the islet itself—a restriction due to weather conditions and the controlled access designed to protect this unique ecosystem. The islet serves as a crucial habitat for various marine bird species, including Bulwer's petrel, Cory's shearwater, little egret, and sooty tern, earning recognition from BirdLife International as an Important Bird Area.

Jul 31

Westward Journey and Sunset Paradise

We bid farewell to our mill paradise and drove across São Miguel's main highway to our next accommodation in João Bom on the island's western coast. This cross-island journey showcased the remarkable geographical diversity packed into São Miguel's relatively small area. The route took us through the central highlands, past crater lakes and volcanic peaks, before descending toward the western coast, where dramatic cliffs meet the endless Atlantic.

The central highway provides access to some of São Miguel's most famous geological features, including views of Lagoa do Fogo (Fire Lake), one of the island's most pristine crater lakes. The landscape transitions from lush eastern valleys to the more dramatic western terrain, where ancient lava flows have created unique coastal formations and black sand beaches.

Our new host proved to be a meticulous German gentleman who exemplified the international appeal of the Azores. He had purchased property, built both his residence and a guest cottage (our accommodation), and established a remote work lifestyle that many Europeans find increasingly attractive. His attention to detail and the cottage's modern amenities provided comfort while maintaining the authentic Azorean experience we sought.

Our evening destination was Mosteiros, a charming village on São Miguel's far western coast that perfectly embodies the Azores' ability to surprise and enchant visitors. This small fishing village is renowned for its spectacular sunsets, when the sun gently sets between dramatic offshore islets.

Mosteiros' appeal lies in its simplicity and authenticity. We walked along the coastal promenade, a simple stone wall that separates the village from the Atlantic's power. A small outdoor bar provided tables and chairs arranged along the sidewalk, where visitors and locals gather each evening to witness nature's daily spectacular conclusion.

The scene was magical in its democratic beauty—families with children, elderly couples, young travelers, and local fishermen all shared the same benches and simple refreshments while watching the sun sink toward the horizon. The offshore volcanic islets, formed by ancient eruptions, create a dramatic silhouette against the golden sky. As the sun disappeared, painting the Atlantic in shades of orange and purple, the scene captured the essence of what makes the Azores special: natural beauty enhanced by genuine human warmth and community.

This evening ritual in Mosteiros represents the Azorean lifestyle at its finest—unhurried, connected to natural rhythms, and enhanced by shared appreciation for simple pleasures. No entertainment technology could replicate the profound satisfaction of watching day transform into night while sharing drinks and conversation with strangers who quickly become friends through the universal language of wonder.

Aug 1

Sete Cidades and Exploring Ponta Delgada

Our morning journey to Sete Cidades took us to one of the Azores' most iconic and frequently photographed destinations. This ancient volcanic crater, now home to twin lakes and dramatic viewpoints, represents the geological forces that created these remarkable islands. Sete Cidades translates to "Seven Cities," referencing local legends about mystical settlements within the crater, though today the area is known primarily for its stunning natural beauty.

The drive up to the crater rim showcased the Azores' ever-changing weather patterns. Atlantic maritime climate means conditions can shift rapidly from brilliant sunshine to heavy mist, sometimes within minutes. As we ascended the winding roads toward the main viewpoints, we witnessed this meteorological drama firsthand—the upper crater lakes disappeared completely behind thick clouds while lower elevations remained clear.

This weather variability is actually characteristic of the Azorean experience and adds to the islands' mystique. Locals accept these conditions philosophically, understanding that Atlantic weather creates the lush vegetation and dramatic atmospheres that define their home. Smart visitors learn to embrace this unpredictability as part of the adventure rather than a disappointment.

Our encounter with a fellow traveler perfectly illustrated the Azores' appeal to independent adventurers. We picked up a young German hitchhiker who had arrived the previous day for a week-long camping expedition across São Miguel. His plan involved hiking and wild camping throughout the island, but he had underestimated the steep terrain leading to Sete Cidades and wisely sought a ride to conserve energy for his planned wilderness adventure.

Hitchhiking remains common and generally safe throughout the Azores, reflecting both the islands' low crime rates and the community spirit that characterizes these isolated Atlantic settlements. During our travels, we had previously assisted two young women in Flores who needed transportation from the island's western coast to Santa Cruz for ferry connections. These brief encounters with fellow travelers became highlights of our journey, offering glimpses into the diverse motivations that draw people to these remote Portuguese islands.

The practice of picking up hitchhikers also reflects practical island realities—limited public transportation, expensive taxi services, and the understanding that travelers often help each other navigate challenges inherent to remote island destinations. For visitors, these interactions provide authentic cultural exchanges and remind us that travel at its best involves human connections that transcend language and nationality barriers.

After our Sete Cidades adventure, we spent the afternoon exploring Ponta Delgada, São Miguel's capital and the economic heart of the Azores. Founded in 1499, this charming city serves as both the gateway to the archipelago and a showcase of five centuries of Portuguese colonial architecture adapted to volcanic island conditions.

Our walking tour began at the iconic Portas da Cidade (City Gates), a magnificent 18th-century architectural ensemble featuring three distinctive arches that serve as the symbolic entrance to the city. These gates, built from local volcanic stone and white limestone, originally marked the spot of the old city harbor and represented the first line of defense for the island. Today, they stand as Ponta Delgada's most recognizable landmark, featured prominently in the city's official logo and countless tourist photographs.

From the gates, we wandered through the cobblestone streets of the historic center, marveling at the distinctive Azorean architecture that blends Portuguese colonial traditions with practical adaptations to volcanic materials. Buildings feature the characteristic white facades with black volcanic stone trim, creating striking visual contrasts that define Azorean settlements throughout the archipelago.

Walking toward the harbor, we discovered the maritime character that has defined Ponta Delgada throughout its history. The modern harbor development has created an impressive waterfront promenade along Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, where palm trees line a boardwalk perfect for evening strolls. The city originally extended right to the sea's edge, but modern harbor expansion created space for restaurants, shops, and public spaces while maintaining the port's commercial and strategic importance.

At the eastern end of the harbor area, we explored the Forte de São Brás, a 16th-century fortress built to defend against pirates and foreign invasions. This well-preserved example of Renaissance military architecture features thick walls, bastions, and a central courtyard that once housed soldiers and artillery. Today, the fortress houses the Military Museum of the Azores, offering insights into the islands' strategic importance throughout Portuguese maritime history.

The fortress's location provides excellent views across Ponta Delgada's harbor, where fishing boats, recreational yachts, and occasional cruise ships create a bustling maritime scene. From here, we can appreciate how geography shaped the city's development—sheltered by surrounding hills and blessed with a natural harbor, Ponta Delgada grew to become the Azores' unofficial capital and main connection point with the outside world.

Aug 2

Northern Coastal Splendor

We dedicated this day to exploring São Miguel's dramatic northern coastline, driving from our western base toward Ribeira Grande and discovering why this region is considered among the most scenic in the entire Azorean archipelago. The northern coast faces the full force of Atlantic weather systems, creating dramatic cliffs, hidden coves, and constantly changing seascapes that have attracted photographers and nature lovers for generations.

The coastal road winds through small villages where traditional Azorean life continues much as it has for centuries. Whitewashed houses with traditional black volcanic stone trim dot the landscape, their red tile roofs creating vibrant contrasts against the deep green vegetation that thrives in the humid Atlantic climate. Each village maintains its own character while sharing common architectural elements that reflect both Portuguese colonial heritage and practical adaptations to local volcanic materials.

Ribeira Grande, São Miguel's second-largest city, offers insights into Azorean urban life beyond the tourist circuits. Founded in the 16th century, the city features well-preserved colonial architecture, traditional markets, and a working harbor that connects to the island's fishing industry. The city's thermal springs and traditional architecture create an appealing blend of historical significance and contemporary Azorean life.

The northern coastline's viewpoints (miradouros) provide constantly changing perspectives on the Atlantic Ocean's interaction with volcanic coastlines. Unlike the more sheltered southern coast, this region showcases the raw power of oceanic forces meeting immovable volcanic stone. The resulting dramatic landscapes include sea stacks, blowholes, and hidden beaches accessible only by steep trails that require careful navigation.

Our evening return to Mosteiros continued our sunset ritual, confirming that this simple pleasure had become an essential part of our daily rhythm. Sharing drinks and conversation while watching the sun disappear beyond the Atlantic horizon created a meditative conclusion to each day's adventures. The consistency of this natural spectacle, combined with the variable weather and constantly changing social dynamics among evening gatherers, ensured that each sunset experience remained unique while becoming comfortably familiar.

Aug 3

Adventures in Cultural Exchange

Our morning mission to retrieve Ann's passport from the airport provided an unexpected lesson in cultural differences and the importance of local knowledge when traveling internationally. This seemingly simple task evolved into an adventure that perfectly illustrated how travel experiences often become more memorable due to unexpected challenges rather than despite them.

The passport retrieval itself proceeded smoothly, demonstrating the efficiency and reliability of Azores Airlines' customer service. However, our subsequent attempt to refuel our rental car revealed a crucial cultural difference that nearly stranded us in a potentially expensive situation. In the United States, diesel fuel pumps are typically colored green while gasoline pumps are black. Portugal uses exactly the opposite color scheme—a detail that escaped our attention until our gasoline engine began consuming diesel fuel.

Approximately one mile from the gas station, our car began losing power on a curved section of road. John's quick thinking proved crucial as he safely maneuvered the sputtering vehicle into the opposing traffic lane (checking carefully for oncoming vehicles) and backed around the corner into a small snack bar parking lot. This maneuver, while unconventional, prevented a potentially dangerous breakdown on a busy road.

From the parking lot, we contacted our rental car company, whose response demonstrated the cultural attitudes that make the Azores particularly welcoming to international visitors. Rather than expressing frustration or assigning blame, the customer service representative explained that this exact mistake happens regularly with American tourists due to the reversed color coding. They immediately dispatched a tow truck and assured us that the resolution would be straightforward.

At the airport, the rental agency staff treated our mistake as a routine occurrence rather than a crisis. They immediately provided a replacement vehicle and charged only approximately $135 for the fuel system cleaning—a fraction of what similar service might cost in the United States. This reasonable approach to an honest mistake reflected both practical business sense and the cultural understanding that travelers often encounter unfamiliar systems when visiting foreign countries.

Our local discovery involved exploring a tunnel recommended by village residents—a unique pedestrian passage approximately 6 feet tall that cuts directly through a mountain to provide access to the Sete Cidades valley. This engineering marvel, carved through solid volcanic rock, demonstrates the creative solutions Azoreans have developed to navigate their challenging terrain.

Walking through the tunnel proved to be an unexpectedly memorable experience. The passage contained approximately 6 inches of water throughout its length, requiring careful foot placement while navigating in near-total darkness. The acoustic effects created by dripping water and our footsteps amplified in the confined space added an adventurous element to this unique transportation method. Emerging on the valley side provided a dramatic revelation of Sete Cidades' crater landscape, making the brief underground journey feel like a passage between different worlds.

Aug 4

Natural Spa and Island Farewell

Our final day on São Miguel began with an early morning visit to Termas da Ferraria, one of the world's most unique thermal experiences. Ponta da Ferraria, located on the southwest coast of São Miguel Island, is the only known place on Earth where an underwater volcano heats a portion of the sea, creating natural thermal pools in the ocean.

Timing proved crucial for experiencing this natural wonder. During low tide, the hot spring water becomes more concentrated, creating pleasantly warm temperatures, while high tide brings cooler ocean water that dilutes the thermal effect. We arrived approximately one hour before low tide, allowing us to experience the full range of temperatures as Atlantic waves alternately introduced cool ocean water and retreated to reveal the concentrated thermal springs.

The thermal pools are nestled among dramatic volcanic rock formations, creating natural basins where warm freshwater from geothermal springs mixes with Atlantic seawater. Dating back to the 15th century, these hot springs have been celebrated for their health benefits, with the mineral-rich waters believed to provide therapeutic properties.

The experience requires some physical capability and awareness of natural conditions. Safety ropes are strung across the pools to help visitors resist the power of Atlantic waves, and access requires climbing over jagged volcanic rocks. Water shoes prove essential for protecting feet from sharp surfaces, while basic swimming skills are necessary due to the dynamic nature of the tidal environment.

The social atmosphere at Termas da Ferraria reflected the democratic appeal of natural wonders. Approximately half the visitors were tourists like ourselves, while the other half consisted of local Azoreans who regularly visit this free natural spa. Particularly inspiring was a group of local residents in their 70s and 80s who navigated the challenging rocky terrain and ladder access with skill and confidence earned through years of experience. Their presence reminded us that these thermal pools have been providing relaxation and therapeutic benefits to islanders for generations.

The sensory experience of soaking in naturally heated ocean water while surrounded by dramatic volcanic landscapes provided a perfect metaphor for the entire São Miguel experience. Here, the Earth's internal forces create beauty and comfort rather than destruction, while the Atlantic Ocean that isolates these islands also provides the dynamic energy that makes moments like this possible. The contrast between the mineral-rich warm water and cool Atlantic waves created a natural hydrotherapy treatment that no resort spa could replicate.

Our afternoon flight to Terceira marked the conclusion of our São Miguel adventure, but the short inter-island journey provided a final aerial perspective on the island that had captivated us for eight days. From above, São Miguel's volcanic origins become clearly visible—crater lakes, lava fields, and the dramatic coastlines that define its character. The geometric patterns of agricultural fields, the strategic placement of towns in protected valleys, and the network of roads connecting remote communities all tell the story of human adaptation to a dynamic volcanic environment.

The flight to Terceira also reminded us of the logistical realities that make island-hopping in the Azores both challenging and rewarding. Each island maintains its own character and attractions, but traveling between them requires planning and flexibility due to weather conditions and limited flight schedules. This isolation, which sometimes complicates travel plans, also preserves the authentic character that makes each Azorean island special.