Switzerland & Liechtenstein
A Journey Breathtaking Landscapes and Europe's Smallest Principality
When we awakened to the sun dancing across Lake Garda's waters that Sunday morning in June 1989, we had no idea we were about to embark on one of the most spectacular drives of our European adventure. Short on lire and long on determination, we navigated the winding roads from northern Italy into the heart of Alpine splendor, discovering not just the postcard-perfect beauty of Switzerland, but the fairy-tale charm of tiny Liechtenstein nestled between mountain giants.
From the dramatic tunnel drives beneath snow-capped peaks to the gentle lapping of Lake Lucerne's shores, from the medieval charm of Vaduz to the timeless beauty of the Rhine Valley, these three days would etch themselves into our memories as surely as the ancient glaciers carved the valleys we traversed.
LOCATIONS | Lucerne, Switzerland Liechtenstein Bavaria |
DATES | June 11 - 13, 1989 |
PHOTOS | |
LODGING | Van camping |
ARRIVAL | Driving from Lake Garda, Italy |
DEPARTURE | Driving to Schwaigern, West Germany |
"The cowbells of Liechtenstein ring out a timeless melody—the sound of pastoral contentment in a world increasingly hurried."
Days & Discoveries
Jun 11 | Lago di Garda, Italy to Merlischachen, Switzerland Our final morning beside Italy's largest lake dawned with crystalline beauty, but our pockets were nearly as empty as our gas tank. Having spent our remaining 14,000 lire—roughly ten dollars—on fuel, we faced the challenge of reaching Switzerland via the most economical route possible, carefully avoiding the toll roads that would have devoured our meager remaining funds. The drive from Como to the Swiss border transformed from necessity into spectacle as we crossed into a completely different world. Switzerland's mountainous terrain, shaped by centuries of Alpine formation and glacial activity, creates some of the most dramatic scenery in Central Europe. The landscape shifted from Italian lakes to Swiss Alpine majesty—towering mountains crowned with snow, cascading waterfalls tumbling down granite faces, and valleys so green they seemed to glow in the afternoon light. Our route took us through engineering marvels that left us breathless, including a remarkable 10.5-mile tunnel that burrowed straight through the mountain's heart. The contrast was stunning: one moment we were surrounded by solid rock, the next emerging into sunlight with panoramic views of the Alps stretching endlessly in every direction. We stopped repeatedly for photographs, unable to resist capturing the interplay of light and shadow on the mountain faces, the silver threads of waterfalls, and the sight of trains threading their way along impossible grades. By mid-afternoon, we found ourselves driving around the shores of Lake Lucerne (Vierwaldstättersee), whose name literally means 'Lake of the four forested settlements' and has served as an important transportation route for centuries. The lake's complicated shape, with several sharp bends and four distinct arms, creates constantly changing vistas as travelers navigate its shores. We paused in Gersau for dinner, savoring traditional bratwurst and Schweinebraten at a lakeside restaurant where the setting sun painted the water in shades of gold and rose. Our evening destination proved perfect: a campsite right on Lake Lucerne's shore in Merlischachen. As the day's warmth gave way to the cool mountain evening, we took a gentle walk to purchase refreshments and called home to share our safe arrival with family. The quiet evening, with gentle lakeshore sounds and the majestic Alps reflected in still waters, provided the perfect end to our border-crossing adventure. |  |
Jun 12 | Merlischachen, Switzerland to Bendern, Liechtenstein Dawn broke gloriously over the Alps, with early sunlight painting the peaks in shades of rose and gold while the lake lay mirror-still below. After packing our van with the leisurely pace that only a perfect morning allows, we set off for Lucerne, just nine miles away—close enough that we could enjoy the changing light on the mountains as we drove.
A local bakery provided our breakfast: Ann selected a Berliner (the Swiss take on a jelly donut), while John chose a remarkably satisfying salami and cream cheese sandwich served on a small pretzel roll. These simple pleasures, eaten while watching the early morning activity around the lake, reminded us why traveling slowly allows for the most authentic experiences.
The Lion Monument in Lucerne, carved between 1820 and 21 by Lukas Ahorn from a design by the famous Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, commemorates the Swiss Guards who died in 1792 during the French Revolution. Mark Twain famously described this powerful sculpture as "the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world". The ten-by-six-meter work depicts a dying lion impaled by a spear, positioned to honor the Swiss guardsmen who died protecting King Louis XVI during the storming of the Tuileries in Paris.
The adjacent Glacier Gardens proved equally fascinating, where I marveled at enormous potholes carved by ancient glacial action millions of years ago. The geology museum's audiovisual presentation and halls of mirrors added an unexpected dimension to our understanding of the region's formation. This combination of natural history and human artistry exemplifies Switzerland's unique ability to blend education with beauty.
Lucerne's Old Town enchanted us with its medieval wooden bridges spanning the Reuss River. We explored the train station (a masterpiece of Swiss efficiency), wrote postcards home, and strolled along sections of the ancient city wall adorned with climbing flowers. By 3:00 PM, having spent a satisfying morning in this quintessentially Swiss city, we decided to continue toward our next destination: Liechtenstein.
The drive southeast proved as tunnel-rich as our previous day's journey, including one spectacular passage stretching 3.2 miles through solid rock. Liechtenstein, officially the Principality of Liechtenstein, is one of the world's smallest countries, nestled between Switzerland and Austria in the heart of the Alps. We didn't even realize we'd crossed the border until we spotted a beautiful castle perched on a hillside and pulled over to photograph it.
Vaduz, Liechtenstein's capital city, is renowned worldwide for its exquisite postage stamps, which serve both as souvenirs and tourist information. We purchased several of these miniature works of art, each depicting scenes from this Alpine principality with remarkable detail and artistry.
Our evening campsite in Bendern provided a perfect introduction to Liechtenstein's rural charm. Near a beautiful old church whose bell tolled every quarter hour, we pitched our tent within sight and sound of grazing dairy cows—complete with large bells that created their own gentle symphony. After a picnic dinner beneath a graceful birch tree, we explored a small forest path along the river, then spent the evening planning our next day's route while lying on our blanket under a sky full of stars, the cowbells providing a uniquely Alpine lullaby. |      |
Jun 13 | Bendern, Liechtenstein to Schwaigern, West Germany Our final morning in the Alps dawned with spectacular clarity, offering one last panoramic view of the mountain range that had captivated us for three days. After breaking camp early, we crossed back into Switzerland to fuel up and find breakfast, then began our journey toward Lake Constance (Bodensee), stopping frequently along the lake's perimeter to capture the interplay of water, mountains, and sky in our photographs.
Just outside Konstanz (Constance), we discovered Mainau Island, accessible by footbridge and renowned for its elaborate gardens and small palace. This "flower island" in Lake Constance has been cultivated for centuries, creating a botanical paradise where we could stroll leisurely among exotic plants and perfectly manicured landscapes while enjoying views across the lake to the Alps beyond.
Lunch at a traditional Gasthaus in a small lakeside town provided generous portions of authentic regional cuisine at reasonable prices—the kind of meal that satisfies both body and soul while offering glimpses into local life and customs. These spontaneous discoveries often prove more memorable than carefully planned tourist destinations.
Our afternoon brought us to Meersburg, a picturesque medieval town perched above Lake Constance. Here we toured what's believed to be the oldest castle in Germany, exploring chambers filled with ancient armor, swords, and helmets that brought centuries of history to vivid life. Walking through these stone corridors, touching walls built when this region was part of the Holy Roman Empire, provided a tangible connection to the deep history underlying the beautiful landscapes we'd been admiring. The return drive to Schwaigern via Stuttgart marked the end of our Alpine adventure, but not before one final treat: Oma had prepared a traditional Swabian dish similar to ravioli, welcoming us back with the kind of home-cooked meal that makes any journey's end feel like a celebration. |        |
Our Learnings
Switzerland's Geographic Mastery: The Swiss have turned their mountainous geography from a challenge into an advantage, creating transportation networks that are marvels of engineering while preserving natural beauty. The country's system of tunnels, cogwheel railways, and lake steamers demonstrates how infrastructure can enhance rather than diminish scenic splendor.
Cultural Preservation in Small Spaces: Liechtenstein proves that size doesn't determine cultural richness—despite covering only 160 square kilometers, the principality maintains distinct traditions, world-class museums, and 400 kilometers of hiking trails, creating Europe's densest hiking network.
Historical Layering: Every Swiss city reveals layers of history, from prehistoric lake dwellings to medieval fortifications to modern engineering marvels. Recent archaeological discoveries at Lake Lucerne, including Bronze Age village remains dating to 1000 BC, continue to rewrite our understanding of how long humans have called these Alpine valleys home.
Tourism as Cultural Bridge: The Swiss have mastered the art of welcoming visitors while maintaining authenticity. From Lucerne's carefully preserved medieval core to the thoughtful presentation of historical sites, Switzerland demonstrates how tourism can fund preservation rather than threaten it.
Alpine Integration: Both Switzerland and Liechtenstein show how human settlements can integrate harmoniously with dramatic landscapes. Rather than fighting the mountains, these cultures have learned to work with Alpine rhythms, creating communities that feel organic to their spectacular settings.