River Cruise: Swiss Alps to Paris

Nov 9 - 10

Welcome to Swiss Prices!

The adventure began with the familiar ritual of international travel—long flights, time zone confusion, and the peculiar mix of exhaustion and excitement that comes with arriving in a foreign land. Viking had thoughtfully arranged accommodation at the Renaissance Zurich Tower Hotel, a pleasant modern property strategically positioned near the train station, just outside Zurich's historic old town.

After their marathon journey, Barbara wisely chose rest over exploration, surrendering to jet lag in the comfort of their hotel room. But Ann, energized by the thrill of being in Switzerland, couldn't resist venturing into the Swiss night. The area around their hotel buzzed with the energy of a major transit hub—exactly the kind of place where weary travelers and locals intersect over late-night meals.

Ann's first taste of Switzerland came in the form of a döner kebab from a local shop. Delicious? Absolutely. Affordable? Welcome to Switzerland, where even street food comes with a premium price tag attached. It was her first lesson in the Swiss cost of living.

Nov 11

Zurich - Mountain Heights and Guild Festivities

The morning brought Viking's complimentary three-hour tour of Zurich, but this wasn't your typical city walking tour. The adventure began with a bus ride to the highest peak in the Zurich area. What followed was a moderately challenging hike to the summit—the kind of trail that separates the casual sightseers from the genuine adventurers. At 84 years young, Barbara proved she belonged firmly in the latter category. While the path wasn't particularly easy, requiring careful footing and steady determination, Barbara tackled it with the kind of spirit that would define their entire journey. Her performance on this mountain trail was nothing short of fantastic, inspiring fellow passengers and demonstrating that age is often just a number when you have the right attitude.

The reward for their efforts was spectacular: panoramic views of Zurich, Lake Zurich, and the distant Alps stretching toward the horizon. But perhaps even better was the traditional Swiss mountain restaurant at the summit, where they enjoyed coffee and kuchen—the perfect combination of strong Swiss coffee and delicate cake that makes any alpine effort worthwhile. There's something magical about earning your cake through physical effort, then savoring it while surrounded by some of Switzerland's most beautiful scenery.

After their mountain conquest, the group boarded a bus that transported them down to Zurich's old town, where the tour continued through the medieval streets and historic squares. By noon, Barbara was understandably feeling the combined effects of their transcontinental journey and morning mountain adventure, so she opted for a taxi back to the hotel for some well-deserved rest. Ann, however, was energized by the day's activities and decided to continue exploring, armed with a Swiss travel pass and headed back into the heart of Zurich, bound for the FIFA Museum.

The FIFA Museum proved to be a multimedia wonderland spanning three floors and 3,000 square meters of exhibition space. The museum displays over 1,000 items of exclusive memorabilia, including the original FIFA World Cup Trophy, national soccer shirts from all FIFA member associations, and features interactive exhibits like a giant pinball machine. The museum offers comprehensive insights into both men's and women's football with interactive experiences including a commentating desk, stadium seats, and various football games like football ping pong and table football. For a football enthusiast, it was pure heaven—interactive exhibits that let visitors test their skills, historical artifacts that traced the beautiful game's evolution, and multimedia displays that brought the sport's greatest moments to life.

But Zurich had even more surprises in store. As Ann wandered through the old town, she discovered something magical happening in the streets—musicians dressed in elaborate, almost fantastical costumes were performing throughout the city. She had stumbled upon one of Zurich's most cherished traditions: the guild festivals.

These festivals feature guild members dressed in historical costumes parading through the streets on horseback, with blacksmiths carrying hammers, bakers hurling pastry treats into crowds, and butchers throwing sausages. This tradition dates back to the 16th century when the City Council resolved that work should stop an hour later in summer than in winter months. While the famous Sechseläuten celebration typically occurs in spring, various guild events happen throughout the year, and Ann had fortuitously encountered one of these traditional gatherings where different trade groups compete to outdo each other in elaborate displays of pageantry.

As evening approached, Ann had made dinner reservations at a place she'd discovered during her previous night's wandering—Frau Gerolds Garten. This unique venue transforms from a summer beer garden into a cozy winter fondue restaurant, featuring tipi-style tents and a warm, inviting atmosphere. The restaurant offers various fondue options, including truffle and herb fondues, served in a heated outdoor area with comfortable seating arrangements. Their table in one of the tent-like structures provided the perfect setting for their first Swiss fondue experience—creamy, rich cheese paired with crusty bread and the kind of Alpine atmosphere that makes every bite taste better.

Nov 12

Basel via the Alps - A Serendipitous Discovery

Before joining their floating home, Ann and Barbara embarked on Viking's "Highlights of the Alps" excursion—an all-day journey through some of Switzerland's most breathtaking scenery. The tour wound through Alpine valleys and traditional Swiss villages, each more picturesque than the last.

One unplanned stop would prove to be the most meaningful of their entire trip. In a small Swiss town renowned for its wood carving traditions, they discovered a shop that held a special place in Barbara's family history. Incredibly, this was the very same establishment where Barbara's brother-in-law had purchased her beloved nativity scene back in the 1960s during his travels. The coincidence was almost too remarkable to believe—yet here they were, three generations later, in the same shop that had crafted pieces still displayed in Barbara's home thousands of miles away.

Barbara couldn't resist adding to her collection, purchasing new figures and replacement pieces to enhance the nativity display that had been part of her family's Christmas traditions for decades. It was one of those magical travel moments that remind us how small the world can be, and how our journeys often connect us to our past in the most unexpected ways.

The day concluded with their arrival in Basel for embarkation. While the other passengers had been waiting aboard, Ann and Barbara arrived fashionably late with the others on the Alps tour, their luggage already transferred from the hotel and waiting in their stateroom. Their cabin featured two single beds and a French balcony—a floor-to-ceiling window with a small outdoor seating area that would become their private viewing box for the journey ahead.

As evening fell, the ship began its northern journey through a series of locks. From their balcony, Ann and Barbara watched the fascinating hydraulic ballet of lock operation—massive water-filled chambers lifting their vessel step by step toward the Rhine proper. It was their first taste of the engineering marvels that would make their river journey possible.

Nov 13

Strasbourg, France - Breaking Free from the Herd

They awoke to the charm of Strasbourg, the Alsatian capital, where French and German cultures blend like wine and cheese. The ship's breakfast buffet offered a tempting array of choices—fresh pastries, local cheeses, seasonal fruits, and strong European coffee to fuel their exploration.

The day's scheduled walking tour promised four hours of guided sightseeing, but Ann and Barbara had already discovered something important about themselves as travelers: they preferred independence to instruction, spontaneity to structure. After two hours of dutiful following and listening, they made their polite escape from the group to explore Strasbourg on their own terms.

This decision would become a recurring theme throughout their cruise—the realization that they didn't enjoy "traveling in herds" or being told what to see and when to see it. For Barbara, at 84, and Ann, this represented a kind of travel liberation. They had purchased a cruise for its convenience and comfort, but they weren't about to sacrifice their curiosity and independence for the sake of group efficiency.

Strasbourg rewarded their independent spirit with its magnificent Gothic cathedral, its picturesque Petite France district with its half-timbered houses, and its unique blend of French sophistication and German gemütlichkeit. They wandered cobblestone streets at their own pace, stopped where curiosity beckoned, and lingered where beauty demanded attention.

Nov 14

Strasbourg to Baden-Baden - A Spa Day Improvisation

When the river proved too low for navigation to Speyer, forcing an unplanned second day in Strasbourg, Ann and Barbara faced a choice: repeat the previous day's activities or create their own adventure. True to their independent spirits, they chose adventure.

Ann had researched Baden-Baden, the famous German spa town, and determined it was accessible by train from Strasbourg. What followed was a masterclass in spontaneous travel planning. They took a taxi to the train station, navigated the German rail system with transfers, and within just over an hour found themselves checking into the renowned Caracalla Spa for a day of thermal relaxation.

The day-use rates were approximately €23 for bathing area access or €27 for combined bathing and sauna areas. The Caracalla Spa features multiple thermal pools with temperatures between 32°C and 38°C, including a large indoor pool under an impressive dome, outdoor pools, whirlpools, and various massage jets and attractions. The facility offers over 4,000 square meters of space with various thermal pools filled with healing mineral water from natural springs, plus saunas, steam baths, and relaxation areas.

Barbara was amazed by the spa's extensive facilities—multiple thermal pools at different temperatures, saunas, steam rooms, and relaxation areas that seemed to stretch endlessly. They spent five blissful hours soaking in mineral-rich waters, lounging in steam rooms, and experiencing the kind of European spa culture that Americans often only read about in travel magazines.

After their thermal therapy, they strolled through Baden-Baden's elegant town center, window shopping and absorbing the refined atmosphere of this historic resort destination. They caught the train back to Strasbourg in plenty of time for dinner, arriving to the astonishment of their tablemates, who couldn't believe they had managed such an ambitious day trip.

Nov 15

Mainz to Koblenz - Rhine Challenges and Adaptations

The low Rhine water levels that had stranded them in Strasbourg continued to complicate their journey. Viking made the difficult decision to transfer passengers by bus to Mainz, then move them to a different ship positioned in Koblenz. While river cruising's main selling point is the convenience of unpacking once, here they were, repacking their belongings and boarding a bus.

In Mainz, they signed up for another walking tour but, predictably, lasted only about half the scheduled time before striking out on their own. Mainz proved to be a delightful German city with a charming old town, perfect for wandering and discovering authentic German cafes. They found a quaint wine bar where they enjoyed lunch and Ann hunted for a Mainz football jersey for her son Tomas—the kind of authentic local souvenir that means more than any tourist shop trinket.

As they departed Mainz by bus, they passed the city's football stadium, a reminder of what they were missing by not experiencing the Rhine from the water. The journey to Koblenz via autobahn was efficient but hardly romantic—a stark contrast to the leisurely river cruising they had anticipated. Still, sometimes travel requires flexibility, and part of the adventure lies in adapting to circumstances beyond your control.

Nov 16

Koblenz - Solo Exploration and Scenic Cruising

Barbara woke feeling unwell and decided to remain aboard the ship, giving Ann a day of solo exploration in Koblenz. This historic German city, situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers, offered plenty of photographic opportunities and atmospheric wandering.

From the ship's deck, the views were spectacular—a cable car system crossing the river and the imposing fortress of Ehrenbreitstein Castle perched dramatically on the opposite hillside. While Ann chose to explore the town rather than visit the tourist attractions, she found Koblenz to be quintessentially German with its mix of medieval architecture and modern amenities.

The day also included a rescheduled scenic cruise through the Middle Rhine Valley, though not aboard their river cruise ship due to continued low water levels. Instead, they boarded a local tourist boat for what would become one of the journey's most memorable experiences.

The Middle Rhine Valley, inscribed on the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list, is renowned for its beauty with numerous castles, quaint wine-producing towns, and the famous Loreley Rock where the Rhine Valley is at its narrowest and the river flows fastest. Statistically, a castle or castle ruin can be seen every two kilometers along this stretch, with over 40 castles in just 67 kilometers.

Ann had traveled this route twice before—during her 1989 honeymoon and again with Tomas in 2016—but always by car. Experiencing it from the water revealed an entirely different perspective. The legendary Loreley rock, where, according to mythology, a beautiful siren once lured sailors to their deaths, rises 433 feet above the narrowest and most hazardous point of the Rhine. The scenery was quintessentially German—vine-covered hillsides, medieval towns clinging to riverbanks, and romantic castle ruins crowning nearly every hilltop.

Nov 17

Cochem and Bernkastel - Hidden Gems of the Moselle

With Barbara still feeling under the weather, Ann embarked on another day of solo exploration, this time with two stops: Cochem and Bernkastel. Both towns offered the fairy-tale charm that makes German river valleys so beloved by travelers.

Cochem, with its castle perched dramatically above the town, represented the perfect German river town—half-timbered houses, narrow cobblestone streets, and that indefinable sense of stepping back in time. Ann spent the morning wandering the medieval streets and selecting souvenirs that would capture the essence of this storybook setting.

But it was Bernkastel that truly captured her heart. This wine village was a delightful surprise, more picturesque and authentic than she had expected. The town was preparing for its Christmas market, giving Ann a preview of the magical transformation that turns German towns into winter wonderlands each December. She hiked to a hilltop viewpoint for panoramic views of the Moselle Valley—the kind of vista that makes you understand why people have fought over this beautiful landscape for centuries.

The contrast between the two towns illustrated one of river cruising's great advantages: the ability to experience multiple destinations in a single day, each with its own character and attractions. Bernkastel, in particular, proved that sometimes the most memorable discoveries are the ones you didn't expect to make.

Nov 18

Mosel Transit - The Best Day Yet

Faced with another schedule change due to low water levels, most passengers opted for a bus excursion to Trier while the ship continued down the Mosel to meet them later. Ann and Barbara, having had their fill of bus travel, made what would prove to be their best decision of the entire cruise: they stayed aboard for the river transit.

This choice transformed what could have been another logistical compromise into the cruise's most magical day. With only a handful of passengers remaining on board, they essentially had a private yacht experience. The dining room was peaceful, the decks uncrowded, and the service impeccable.

As they cruised through the Mosel Valley, medieval towns and vineyards drifted past their windows like scenes from a storybook. The weather was perfect for deck sitting, the lunch was exceptional, and the company was exactly right—mother and daughter sharing one of those travel experiences that becomes a treasured memory.

Sometimes the best travel moments come not from following the itinerary but from recognizing when to break away from it. This day reminded them that the journey itself can be more rewarding than any destination.

Nov 19

Trier to Paris - High-Speed Independence

Disembarkation in Trier brought another opportunity for Ann and Barbara to chart their own course. Viking provided bus transportation to Paris—a five to six-hour journey through countryside and traffic. Ann had researched alternatives and discovered that France's high-speed ICE train could make the journey in about two hours for less than $80 per person.

The choice was obvious: skip the bus and take the train to arrive at Paris's magnificent Gare du Nord instead of some anonymous bus terminal. The ICE train, capable of speeds up to 200 mph on this route, turned what could have been a tedious transfer into an exciting finale to their river journey.

A couple they had befriended during the cruise asked to join their rail adventure, and Barbara readily agreed. The train journey went smoothly until their taxi driver in Paris posed an unexpected political question about President Trump. When their traveling companions enthusiastically endorsed the American president, Ann felt compelled to clarify that not all Americans shared that sentiment, particularly herself. The driver seemed relieved to encounter an American with a more global perspective.

Their destination was the Pullman Paris Tour Eiffel, strategically located near the iconic tower. After Barbara settled in for a well-deserved nap, Ann set off for one of her favorite Parisian pastimes: walking the city's endlessly fascinating streets.

Her route took her to Notre-Dame and the Left Bank—neighborhoods that represent Paris at its most enchanting. She observed the charming ritual of French schoolchildren stopping at crêpe stands for their afternoon treats, one of those simple cultural observations that reveal the rhythm of daily life in a foreign city.

Nov 20

Paris - Cathedral, Shopping, and Sparkling Lights

Their final full day began with Viking's morning bus and walking tour of Paris—a comprehensive introduction to the City of Light's major attractions. As had become their pattern, they participated for about half the scheduled time before breaking away at Notre-Dame to explore at their own pace.

Tragically, their visit to Notre-Dame would prove to be perfectly timed. Just five months later, on April 15, 2019, the catastrophic fire would damage much of the cathedral's roof and spire, making their November 2018 visit a poignant reminder of how travel allows us to witness history before it changes forever. Notre-Dame Cathedral, in its full pre-fire glory, was magnificent. The Gothic architecture, the rose windows, the sense of centuries of history contained within its walls—all of it would soon be dramatically altered by the tragic fire. Barbara purchased a rosary for her Aunt Flo, a small religious souvenir that would carry special meaning after the cathedral's near-destruction.

The afternoon was devoted to shopping in Paris—always a delightful pursuit in a city that invented retail therapy. They admired the elaborate Christmas decorations at Galeries Lafayette, the famous department store that transforms into a winter wonderland each December. Barbara found the perfect memento of her journey: a lovely ring that would forever remind her of this special mother-daughter adventure.

As evening approached, they made their way to their hotel's gym—an unlikely location for one of Paris's best views. From this elevated vantage point, they watched the Eiffel Tower's hourly light show, a sparkling display that turned the iron lady into a beacon of romance and wonder. It was a fitting finale to their European adventure—Paris at its most magical, shared between mother and daughter.

Nov 21

Au Revoir, Europe

The journey home began with Viking's efficient transfer to Charles de Gaulle Airport. Ann's foresight in requesting mobility assistance for Barbara proved invaluable, especially during their connection at LAX. Their Munich flight arrived slightly delayed, creating a tight connection complicated by long customs and security lines and a considerable distance between terminals.

The airline's mobility assistance proved to be a travel lifesaver—expedited processing at every checkpoint, and remarkably, they even held the connecting flight for a few minutes to ensure Barbara could board. It was the kind of service that transformed what could have been a travel nightmare into a manageable conclusion to their European odyssey.