Pico - Azores

May 27

Arrival in Madalena

Our island-hopping adventure began with a seamless connection through Ponta Delgada from Funchal, Madeira. The diminutive Pico airport, with its single baggage claim area, provided a charming welcome that immediately signaled we'd entered a different world from the bustling tourist centers we'd previously visited.

Collecting our rental car proved the wisdom of advance reservations—inventory on these remote Atlantic islands is genuinely limited, and showing up without a booking can leave travelers stranded. We'd chosen a reliable local company, a decision that paid dividends in both service quality and pricing throughout our stay.

The short drive to Madalena, the main town of the municipality located on the western side of Pico island, revealed our first glimpses of the island's extraordinary character. Our accommodation at Porto Velho Boutique Hostel, strategically positioned with water views beside the main port and the striking Igreja de Santa María Madalena Church, with its two twin towers crowned by hexagonal basis spires and decorative comb with a 19th century clock, placed us at the heart of this historic maritime community.

Evening brought our introduction to Pico's culinary culture as we walked through Madalena's charming streets, stretching travel-weary limbs while discovering the rhythms of island life. The town's recently built Ferry Terminal "João Quaresma," one of the most modern ferry stations of the Azores, connected us visually to neighboring Faial Island, just seven kilometers across the channel, setting the stage for our eventual departure.

May 28

Lajes do Pico and Whaling Heritage

The morning brought our exploration of Pico's opposite coast as we drove to Lajes do Pico, a village and the seat of the municipality located on the southeast coast of Pico Island, established shortly before 1460. This journey across the island revealed the dramatic contrast between Pico's windswept Atlantic coast and its more sheltered southern shores.

Lajes do Pico captivated us immediately with its preserved whaling village atmosphere. This charming village was the first settlement on the island and is well-known for its whaling tradition, a heritage we explored at the fascinating Whalers' Museum installed in three old houses where the whalers used to keep their boats and an old blacksmith's forge, a set of buildings dating from the 19th century. The museum's collection of tools and equipment used in whale hunting, as well as carved and engraved pieces made from the bones and teeth of whales, a popular form of art known as "scrimshaw", provided haunting insights into this once-vital island industry.

The village's traditional red windmills created perfect photographic opportunities against the dramatic coastal backdrop. Windmills of Pico are all built according to the same layout: A sturdy black and white stone base (for stability) with a red conical structure made out of timber and local know as casota (little house). Each windmill seemed to tell stories of the agricultural prosperity that once flourished alongside the whaling industry.

The village church proved another architectural gem, typical of the stark black and white-edged buildings that predominate the island, with its elaborate carved altar and intricate stone mosaics embedded in surrounding sidewalks—artistic details that spoke to the wealth generated by Pico's former maritime industries.

Our lunch at a local buffet restaurant introduced us to authentic Azorean flavors, shared tables with business people and tourists alike creating a convivial atmosphere that exemplified the island's welcoming culture. The hearty, inexpensive meal provided perfect fuel for our afternoon exploration.

The return journey to Madalena took us along the highway featuring the longest straight road in the Azores with a constant view of Pico Mountain along the way. This magnificent stratovolcano, which gives the island its name, is far more than just a geographical feature—it's the defining presence that shapes both the island's character and its inhabitants' lives. Mount Pico, Portugal's highest peak at 2,351 meters, is in fact the top of the world's biggest mountain range known as the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, measuring 16,100 km long and 805 km wide, making what we see above sea level merely the tip of this geological giant.

The mountain dominated our horizon throughout the drive, its summit wreathed in low-hanging clouds that created an almost mystical atmosphere. This volcanic peak, which last erupted in 1720, created the very landscape we were exploring—the black basalt stones used in vineyard walls, the fertile volcanic soil that produces exceptional wines, and the dramatic coastline that shapes every vista. We stopped multiple times along this remarkably quiet stretch of road—so remote we could safely photograph from the center of the pavement—marveling at how this single geological feature had created an entire ecosystem of human adaptation and cultural development.

Evening brought dinner at O Cinco, a restaurant so exceptional we would return twice during our brief stay. The establishment's popularity with locals served as the best possible endorsement, while its convivial atmosphere embodied the social heart of Madalena. Our post-dinner wandering led us to a wonderfully rustic local bar tucked away behind our hotel—a true dive bar with genuine local character that provided perfect insight into authentic island life.

May 29

Vineyards and Wine Culture

This day immersed us in the UNESCO World Heritage site on the volcanic island of Pico, consisting of a remarkable pattern of spaced-out, long linear walls running inland from, and parallel to, the rocky shore. Our exploration began fifteen minutes from Madalena in the village of Lajido, where houses built from black volcanic stones (lava rocks) with white mortar and red doors and windows, create a unique and picturesque scene.

The vineyards of Pico were designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2004, representing something truly extraordinary in the agricultural world. The walls were built with the abundant lava rock to protect the thousands of small, contiguous, rectangular plots (currais) from wind and seawater, creating a landscape so unique that evidence of this viniculture, whose origins date back to the 15th century, is manifest in the extraordinary assembly of the fields, in houses and early 19th-century manor houses, in wine-cellars, churches and ports.

The remainder of our day explored Pico's remarkable wine culture, shaped by the island's volcanic terroir. The cultivation of vines on Pico began in the late 15th century, when the island was first settled. Thanks to the volcanic soil, rich in nutrients, the dry, warm microclimate of slopes protected from the wind by walls of rough, dark stone, heated by the sun, the Verdelho variety vines have exceptional ripening conditions here.

Our wine tasting flight with Pico Wines provided education alongside pleasure as we sampled eight different varietals while learning about the island's viticultural heritage. Pico wines are absolutely delicious, no matter which blend you choose. As of today, there are 17 recorded grades grown on the Azores Island of Pico (accounting for red and white varieties). Pico reds are indeed tasty, and popular, however, it is Pico white wine varietals where most would agree Pico wines really shine. The historical significance of these wines cannot be overstated—the wine was later exported to many countries in Europe and America, and even arrived at the table of the Russian Court.

Our day concluded at Cella, the award-winning wine bar perched dramatically on the shoreline with sweeping views toward Faial Island. This architectural marvel perfectly exemplified how contemporary design can honor traditional materials and settings, creating a space where we could savor local wines while contemplating the extraordinary landscape that produces them.

May 30

Easter Preparations and Ferry to Faial

Our final morning in Pico began early with coffee at a local café, where we witnessed the village preparing for Easter celebrations beginning the following day with Good Friday. The sight of local youth groups creating elaborate flower petal mosaics at the church entrance provided a touching glimpse into the island's deep religious traditions and community spirit.

The Church of Santa Maria Madalena, which was initially constructed in the 18th century, bustled with activity as flowers adorned the interior and villagers made final preparations for the holy weekend. The energy and devotion we observed reminded us that beyond its touristic appeal, Pico remains a living community with traditions stretching back centuries.

The short walk to the ferry terminal—a mere hundred yards from our accommodation—brought us among crowds of fellow travelers and locals making the brief journey to Horta, Faial. The sight of young adventurers loading mountain bikes for off-road exploration on the neighboring island reminded us of the endless recreational possibilities these islands offer active travelers.

As our ferry pulled away from Madalena harbor, Mount Pico's volcanic peak provided a majestic farewell backdrop. The four days had revealed an island that seamlessly blends geological drama, agricultural innovation, maritime heritage, and living culture into an experience unlike anywhere else in Portugal—or indeed, Europe.