Northern Coast - Iceland

June 18

From Arctic Capital to Whale Waters

Our northern Iceland adventure began with an ambitious drive from Akureyri to Husavik, the self-proclaimed whale watching capital of Europe, located in the far northeast of Iceland. The journey northeast along the shores of Eyjafjörður fjord and then across the highland interior provided stunning previews of the vast wilderness that defines this region—endless vistas of volcanic peaks, tundra landscapes, and the sense of traveling to the very edge of the inhabited world.

Husavik proved to be a charming fishing port that has successfully transformed itself into Iceland's premier whale-watching destination, capitalizing on the incredible marine life that congregates in Skjálfandi Bay. Our reserved spot aboard the schooner Opal with North Sailing promised an authentic maritime experience aboard a traditional wooden vessel rather than the modern speedboats used by many operators.

The crew fitted us with professional sea gear before we boarded this vintage ship, originally built in 1951 in Germany and carrying ten sails on two masts. The Opal represents North Sailing's commitment to environmentally conscious whale watching, using wind power whenever possible and maintaining the quiet, respectful approach that characterizes the best marine wildlife encounters.

Weather conditions proved absolutely perfect—calm winds, brilliant blue skies, and crystal-clear visibility that allowed panoramic views across Skjálfandi Bay to the snow-capped mountains beyond. During our three-hour voyage, we encountered an extraordinary array of Arctic marine life that made even the experienced crew reach for their cameras, always a sign of a special day at sea.

The highlight came with multiple sightings of humpback whales, those magnificent 30-meter giants that migrate thousands of kilometers from tropical breeding grounds to feast in Iceland's nutrient-rich waters. Watching these gentle giants surface, breathe, and dive just meters from our vessel provided profound connections to the ocean's largest inhabitants. White-beaked dolphins joined the show, playfully riding the Opal's bow wave and demonstrating the acrobatic skills that make them such delightful marine companions.

Perhaps most enchanting were the puffins—those iconic "clowns of the sea" with their distinctive colorful beaks and endearing expressions. Flying puffins provided constant aerial entertainment, while their colonies on nearby islands reminded us that we were witnessing one of the Arctic's most important seabird habitats.

After disembarking back at Husavik harbor, we drove the short distance to GeoSea, one of Iceland's most spectacular geothermal bathing experiences. This clifftop facility represents a perfect marriage of Icelandic innovation and natural resources, featuring infinity pools filled with geothermally heated seawater that maintains perfect bathing temperature year-round.

The GeoSea experience differs dramatically from other Icelandic hot springs by using mineral-rich seawater rather than fresh geothermal water, creating a unique bathing environment with proven benefits for skin conditions. The facility's location on Húsavíkurhöfði cliffs, 49 meters above sea level, provides unobstructed views across Skjálfandi Bay to the Arctic Circle on the horizon.

Most remarkable was the swim-up bar where we could enjoy cold Icelandic beer while soaking in 38-39°C waters, watching the midnight sun create ethereal lighting across the mountains and sea. This combination of therapeutic bathing, spectacular views, and Arctic atmosphere made GeoSea the perfect antidote to our afternoon's sea adventure, soothing both tired sea legs and travel-weary muscles.

Evening brought us into Husavik town proper for a seafood stew dinner that showcased the day's catch from these remarkably productive Arctic waters. The intimate scale of this fishing community, combined with its world-class tourist facilities, demonstrated how Iceland's remote communities have successfully adapted to tourism while maintaining their authentic character.

From Husavik, we drove south to the Lake Myvatn region, arriving as the midnight sun created surreal lighting conditions across this volcanic wonderland. Lake Myvatn, named after the swarms of midges that emerge during summer months, sits in the heart of one of Iceland's most geologically active regions, where every landscape feature tells stories of recent volcanic activity.

Jun 19

Volcanic Wonders and Game of Thrones Magic

Our Lake Myvatn accommodations—a cabin directly on the lakeshore—provided front-row seats to one of Iceland's most dynamic geological theaters. Lake Myvatn, formed by volcanic activity approximately 2,300 years ago, sits within a larger volcanic system that continues to shape the landscape through ongoing geothermal activity, making every vista a lesson in Earth's creative forces.

Our day's exploration began at Dimmuborgir lava fields, a supernatural landscape of towering basalt formations that earned its name "Dark Fortress" through resemblance to medieval fortifications. These craggy pillars, some reaching 20 meters in height, were formed when a lava lake partially collapsed, leaving behind the towering columns and mysterious caves that create an otherworldly hiking experience.

Dimmuborgir holds special significance for both Icelandic folklore and modern pop culture. According to local legends, these formations house Grýla, the terrifying half-troll, half-ogre of Icelandic Christmas tradition, along with her thirteen sons known as the Yule Lads. For Game of Thrones fans, Dimmuborgir served as Mance Rayder's wildling camp in Season 3, where the dramatic rock formations provided natural fortifications for the King Beyond the Wall's army.

Exploring the marked trails through this lava labyrinth felt like wandering through a fantasy landscape—narrow passages between towering columns, hidden grottos where ancient Icelanders might have sheltered, and viewing platforms that revealed the full scope of this geological wonderland. We discovered the grotto used in Game of Thrones filming, a water-filled cave that provided the perfect backdrop for the epic series' northern beyond-the-wall scenes.

From Dimmuborgir, we drove onward to Krafla, stopping along the way to explore the mud pots and fumaroles that demonstrate this region's incredible geothermal activity. The landscape gradually transformed from lava fields to active geothermal zones where the Earth's internal heat reaches the surface through colorful mineral deposits, steaming vents, and bubbling mud pools that seem more appropriate to alien planets than earthly destinations.

The drive past the Krafla geothermal power plant provided insights into how Iceland harnesses these natural forces for practical energy production, while the final ascent to the Krafla crater offered panoramic views across this volcanic wilderness. Standing on the rim of an active volcanic crater, surrounded by steaming vents and recent lava flows, reinforced our appreciation for Iceland's position atop one of Earth's most active geological boundaries.

Our day concluded at Myvatn Nature Baths, often called "the Blue Lagoon of the North" for its milky blue geothermal waters and therapeutic properties. These natural baths, fed directly from the nearby Bjarnarflag geothermal area, maintain temperatures of 36-40°C year-round while providing a completely different experience from their famous southern counterpart.

The mineral composition at Myvatn creates uniquely beneficial bathing conditions, with high levels of silica, sulfur, and other trace elements that have proven therapeutic effects for various skin conditions. The misty, surreal atmosphere created by steam rising from the pools against the backdrop of volcanic landscapes made soaking here feel like floating on the surface of Venus—a comparison enhanced by the limited visibility through the mineral-rich waters.

Evening brought us to the poolside bar, where we enjoyed drinks while processing the day's volcanic encounters. The combination of therapeutic bathing, otherworldly landscapes, and the midnight sun's ethereal lighting created an evening that perfectly captured northern Iceland's unique blend of natural beauty and geological drama.

Jun 20

Edge of Europe's Wilderness

Day three demanded an early start for what would prove to be our longest driving day. It would take us north from the Myvatn region to some of Iceland's most remote and spectacular natural attractions. The journey would showcase the incredible diversity of northern Iceland's landscapes, from volcanic zones to glacial valleys, waterfalls, and highland passes that few tourists ever experience.

Our first destination was Dettifoss, Europe's most powerful waterfall, located in the remote Jökulsárgljúfur National Park. The approach to Dettifoss through a flat, almost lunar landscape creates dramatic anticipation—for kilometers, the terrain reveals no hint of the massive geological feature ahead, until suddenly the Earth simply opens up to reveal this thundering cataract.

Dettifoss drops 44 meters with an average flow of 193 cubic meters per second, creating a spectacle of raw natural power that defies easy description. The waterfall's position in this flat wasteland makes its appearance seem almost supernatural, as if the Norse gods simply carved a massive channel through the Earth to demonstrate their creative power. The mist created by this massive volume of falling water can be seen from kilometers away, while the thunderous roar penetrates deep into the surrounding landscapes.

Standing at the viewing platforms, feeling the ground vibrate from the waterfall's immense power while mist occasionally drifted across our faces, provided one of those profound natural encounters that remind visitors of Earth's incredible creative forces. Dettifoss represents nature at its most raw and uncompromising—a reminder that Iceland's landscapes operate on scales that dwarf human experience.

From Dettifoss, we continued north to Asbyrgi Canyon, one of Iceland's most unusual geological formations and one of the few places in this harsh northern climate where trees can establish sufficient shelter to create actual forests. The horseshoe-shaped canyon, approximately 3.5 kilometers long and up to 1.1 kilometers wide, creates a natural amphitheater that provides protection from Iceland's notorious winds.

According to Norse mythology, Asbyrgi was formed when Odin's eight-legged horse Sleipnir touched down here, leaving this massive hoofprint in the Earth. Geological evidence suggests more mundane origins—catastrophic flooding from glacial lake bursts that carved this dramatic canyon over thousands of years. Regardless of its origins, Asbyrgi provides a remarkable oasis of green in this otherwise barren landscape.

Walking through Asbyrgi's forested floor felt like discovering a secret garden in the Arctic wilderness. Birch trees, normally stunted by Iceland's harsh climate, grow to impressive heights within the canyon's protection, while diverse plant life creates ecosystems rarely seen elsewhere in northern Iceland. The canyon's walls rise up to 100 meters, creating dramatic rock faces that frame this unlikely forest sanctuary.

After exploring Asbyrgi, we backtracked to Route 1 and turned south toward Egilsstadir, beginning a spectacular drive of over 100 kilometers dominated by views of the magnificent Dyngjufjöll volcanic mountains in the distance. This highland crossing took us through some of Iceland's most remote and pristine wilderness areas, where alpine tundra, still covered with snow, created landscapes of stunning desolation and beauty.

The drive through this highland region felt like traveling across the top of the world—vast expanses of untouched wilderness where reindeer roam freely and human settlements become distant memories. The contrast between the volcanic landscapes we'd explored near Myvatn and these glaciated highlands demonstrated the incredible geological diversity packed into northern Iceland's relatively compact area.

As we descended toward Egilsstadir, the landscape gradually transformed from highland tundra to a verdant river valley lined with breathtaking waterfalls cascading down steep valley walls. This transition from stark highland beauty to lush valley landscapes provided a perfect conclusion to our day's journey through northern Iceland's most remote wilderness areas.

We settled into cabin accommodations outside Egilsstadir, then finished our remarkable day with a soak at the nearby Vök Baths, a boutique geothermal facility set on the shores of Lake Urriðavatn. These floating infinity pools, warmed by geothermal springs and surrounded by forested hills, provided the perfect setting for reflecting on our day's adventures through some of Europe's last great wilderness areas.

Jun 21

Fjord Finale

Our final day in northern Iceland began with an early departure from Egilsstadir. We set out to conquer one of the region's most spectacular mountain passes en route to the small port of Seydisfjordur. This drive would take us through some of Iceland's most dramatic highland scenery before descending into one of the country's most picturesque fjord communities.

The pass from Egilsstadir to Seydisfjordur climbs through highland terrain that remains snow-covered well into summer, creating winter wonderland conditions even in late June. The road winds through moonscape-like highlands where patches of snow, alpine lakes, and volcanic peaks create constantly changing vistas that rank among Iceland's most spectacular driving experiences.

Seydisfjordur itself proved to be a gem—a perfectly preserved Nordic fishing village nestled at the head of a dramatic fjord, where colorful wooden houses climb the hillsides and waterfalls cascade directly into the harbor. This artistic community, home to just 600 residents, has become a haven for Icelandic and international artists drawn by the dramatic landscape and peaceful atmosphere.

The town's rainbow-painted street leading to the distinctive blue church has become an Instagram sensation, but Seydisfjordur's true appeal lies in its authentic character as a working fishing village that has successfully embraced cultural tourism without losing its essential identity. Walking through the quiet streets, surrounded by towering mountains and the constant sound of waterfalls, provided the perfect conclusion to our northern Iceland adventure.