Low Countries

May 22

From German Efficiency to Dutch Charm - Helmstedt, West Germany to Hoenderloo, The Netherlands

The morning began with John savoring his beloved breakfast of champions—a chocolate bar and Coke—a ritual that would become legendary throughout our European odyssey. By 9:30 AM, we were cruising down the autobahn toward Hannover, marveling at the stark contrast between the rigid, speed-limit-enforced roads of East Germany (a methodical 62 mph) and the unrestricted freedom of West German highways where Mercedes roared past at 130 mph.

Our first taste of cross-border European life came at a charming bakery-butcher shop in Schüttorf, near the Netherlands border, where we discovered the German "imbiss" style of quick, hearty meals. For just 11 Deutsche Marks (about $5.50), we feasted on hot lunch and stocked up on provisions—an early lesson in European practicality that would serve us well.

Crossing into the Netherlands felt like entering a living watercolor painting. The Netherlands is defined by its relationship with water, and without its ingenious systems of dykes and flood defenses, much of the country would not exist. We exchanged $25 for Dutch guilders and found ourselves in Hoenderloo, a delightful resort town outside Apeldoorn that epitomized Dutch hospitality.

The afternoon unfolded at a leisurely European pace. We located the post office for our daily dose of postcard dispatching (a sacred honeymoon ritual), made essential phone calls to Germany, and most memorably, endured the "hardship" of drinking Heineken at an outdoor café. The irony wasn't lost on us—here we were in the Netherlands, drinking what Americans consider premium Dutch beer, while locals probably chuckled at our tourist enthusiasm.

Evening found us at Camping De Pampel, nestled among some of the most picturesque campgrounds in Europe. The setting was idyllic—secluded sites surrounded by nature, complete with a refreshing pool where we floated away the day's travels under the gentle Dutch sun.

May 23

Toys, Canals, and Medieval Magic - Hoenderloo, The Netherlands to Brugge, Belgium

Our Dutch adventure concluded with a fascinating visit to the Speelgoed-en Bilkmuseum (Toy and Tinworks Museum) in Deventer. This hidden gem proved invaluable for our future business endeavors, offering inspiration and ideas that we carefully catalogued through photographs and mental notes.

The drive to Belgium was a pleasant journey through the European countryside, offering glimpses of the continent's seamless borders and shared heritage. Upon crossing into Belgium, we performed the familiar exchange ritual and grabbed lunch at a self-service restaurant—practical fuel for the adventures ahead.

Then we arrived in Brugge (Bruges), and the world seemed to hold its breath. Bruges is a place that lives and breathes history, with its historic city centre designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The iconic spires of its cathedral and bell tower, its cobbled streets, winding canals, and whitewashed façades are almost painfully picturesque.

The temperature soared to a sweltering 90-100°F, making every shaded moment precious. Our evening boat tour became the day's highlight—a magical journey through canals that have served as the arteries of this Venice of the North since medieval times. The multilingual guide painted vivid pictures of Bruges' golden age when it was one of Europe's chief commercial centers, its prosperity built on a strategic location and innovative merchant capitalism.

Most of the town was built between the 13th and 15th centuries, and as evening shadows danced across ancient buildings, we understood why countless travelers have fallen under Bruges' spell. Our night photography session captured the illuminated medieval facades, creating memories that would glow as warmly as those golden streetlights.

May 24

Romance, Remembrance, and Coastal Breezes - Brugge, Belgium to Dunkirk, France

Another scorching day dawned, perfect for exploring Bruges' treasures at a gentle pace. Our morning pilgrimage to the Ave Maria church proved deeply moving—I lit a candle in memory of my father, a moment of quiet reflection amid the grandeur of centuries-old sacred space.

The search for the Lake of Love became an adventure in itself, leading us through cobbled streets where you'll find a surprise on every corner. We discovered a chocolatier that would fuel John's morning ritual for days to come, and a brewery with a reputation for exceptional beer—though timing meant returning later to properly appreciate their craft.

Bruges received its city charter on 27 July 1128, and new walls and canals were built, creating the foundation for what we experienced as we wandered past ancient convents and beside peaceful waters. The Lake of Love itself was enchanting, though the presence of enthusiastic French schoolchildren reminded us that some treasures are meant to be shared.

Our brewery visit later in the day proved worth the wait. Sitting in their front courtyard, sampling their special brew (remarkably similar to John's homemade beer), we spontaneously decided to head for the coast and Dunkirk—a choice that would add another layer to our journey.

The drive to Dunkerque was uneventful but filled with anticipation. Upon arrival, we easily found accommodations and ventured into town for dinner. French dining customs meant waiting until 7:30 PM for restaurants to open, so we passed the time at an outdoor café, writing postcards and absorbing the coastal atmosphere. Our spicy hot pizzas proved the perfect end to a day of medieval magic and modern convenience.

May 25

Echoes of History and Champagne Dreams - Dunkirk, France to Rheims, France (Champagne Region)

The morning brought an unexpectedly poignant moment at Dunkirk Beach. The chill prevented sunbathing, but we witnessed something unforgettable: a solitary figure wading into the ocean while playing bagpipes. This moving scene—likely a veteran commemorating lost colleagues—reminded us that every corner of Europe holds stories of courage and sacrifice.

Our journey to Rheims and the legendary Champagne region was punctuated by a culinary disaster at a roadside snack bar—a hamburger so memorably awful it became a running joke throughout our trip. Sometimes the worst meals make the best stories.

Rheims, located in the heart of France's Champagne region, has been the traditional coronation site of French kings. Arriving at 3:00 PM gave us perfect timing to explore our first champagne house, Piper-Heidsieck. Despite the French-language tour challenging our comprehension, the underground cellars filled with millions of bottles were absolutely spectacular. The electric tram system and the sheer scale of production offered glimpses into an industry that has perfected its craft over centuries.

Our evening meal was perhaps the most varied and satisfying picnic-style dinner we'd prepared yet—evidence that travel teaches you to appreciate simple pleasures like fresh ingredients and good company under foreign stars.

May 26

Bubbles, Battles, and Border Crossings - Rheims, France to Bettembourg, Luxembourg

Cloudy skies—our first since Salzburg—greeted us as we visited Pommery, another prestigious champagne house with architecture as impressive as its wines. Fortune smiled upon us as we joined two English-speaking couples for a comprehensive tour of 116 steps into the chalk caves where champagne achieves its magic.

The drive through the vineyards toward Epernay revealed the pastoral beauty that produces some of the world's finest wines. We stopped in Epernay for lunch at a charming bistro, savoring both the local cuisine and the gradual return of sunshine that would bless the remainder of our day.

Our detour to Verdun added historical gravitas to our journey. The World War I monuments we encountered reminded us of the tremendous sacrifices made on these battlefields. Fort de Vaux, where we took a self-guided tour, provided sobering insights into the Great War's devastating impact on European soil. The views from this strategic position across the plains offered a perspective on both the battles fought here and the peace we were privileged to enjoy.

Luxembourg beckoned just across another European border. Finding our campsite in Bettembourg required only "a little bit of trouble"—navigation challenges that became part of the adventure's charm. We settled in for two nights, anticipating the discoveries ahead in this unique grand duchy.

May 27

Reunions and Roman Ruins - Bettembourg, Luxembourg - Day Trip to Trier, Germany

The morning began with logistical choreography—showers, van maintenance, and the essential European task of money exchange. Luxembourg is a small, multicultural country in the heart of Europe that is open to the world, easily accessible by train from Belgium, France, and Germany. Our quest to contact Uschi led us through Luxembourg City to the airport, where we finally made connections and arranged to meet.

The reunion with Uschi at Bettembourg's train station sparked an impromptu excursion to Trier, Germany. Our lunch at a traditional Gasthaus—jägerschnitzel, French fries, salad, and beer—epitomized the hearty satisfaction of German cuisine shared among friends.

Trier boasts Roman ruins over 2,000 years old, and our exploration of the ancient baths provided tangible connections to antiquity. The Roman fortifications built after Julius Caesar's conquest of local tribes still echo through modern Trier's landscape.

Our visit to Bitburg Air Force Base added an unexpected American flavor to our European adventure. The contrast of familiar products in the PX—Pepsi and Oreos—felt almost surreal after weeks of European immersion. Uschi's prediction that John and I would have "two boys and a girl" became a cherished memory, regardless of her unscientific methodology.

The evening at Uschi's house, filled with conversation, photographs, and German hospitality, reminded us that travel's greatest treasures are often the human connections we make along the way.

May 28

Medieval Treasures and Modern Comforts - Bettembourg, Luxembourg to Trier, West Germany

Our final day in this region began with an American breakfast at Uschi's—pancakes and bacon that tasted like home while we sat in the heart of Europe. Returning to Trier offered opportunities to explore the city more thoroughly, beginning with a fantastic toy store that we earmarked for Monday's official opening.

Trier's cathedral impressed with its architectural majesty and historical significance. The pedestrian area provided perfect lunch venues—I opted for pepperoni pizza while John chose bratwurst, highlighting the international flavors available even in smaller German cities.

The Porta Nigra, another Roman ruin dating back over 2,000 years, offered three levels of ancient architecture to explore. The discovery of another excellent toy store advertising the Trier Toy Museum sent us on a delightful cultural expedition. This museum proved superior to Belgium's version, with more creative displays and a wider variety.

Our afternoon was spent in the timeless European tradition of café sitting—watching the world pass by while sipping drinks and absorbing local life. McDonald's provided familiar dinner flavors, though the European setting made even fast food feel exotic.

The evening at our Moselle River campsite was pure magic. The gorgeous river views, dramatic lighting in the sky, and Armed Forces Network broadcasts of the Indy 500 and baseball games created a uniquely international atmosphere that perfectly captured our honeymoon's blend of adventure and comfort.

May 29

Exploring The Mosel While Homeward Bound - Trier, West Germany to Schwaigern, West Germany

Our final day of this Low Countries chapter began with another beautiful morning and an early departure by 8:30 AM toward Schwaigern. Instead of the efficient autobahn route, we chose the scenic path following the Mosel to the Rhine, then continuing via autobahn from Bingen—a decision that rewarded us with some of the trip's most spectacular scenery.

Lunch in Cochem was extraordinary—Ann savored jägerschnitzel while John enjoyed rind rouladen, both representing the pinnacle of German culinary tradition. Our brief exploration of Cochem's medieval architecture provided perfect subjects for future artistic endeavors.

The drive along both rivers offered continuous postcard-worthy vistas. The Moselle region, which has a 42km natural border, features a mild climate, a wine-growing tradition, and a European spirit. John's photographic documentation of castles, vineyards, and riverside villages would provide artistic inspiration for years to come.

Arriving in Schwaigern around 6 PM, we found letters from our mothers waiting—connections to home that felt precious after our European adventures. Evening conversation with Oma, dinner preparation, and Kurt's visit to work on his wagons created a warm domestic atmosphere.

The day concluded perfectly with Armed Forces Network broadcasting the Cincinnati Reds versus the Pittsburgh Pirates—John's beloved baseball, providing the soundtrack to our one-month anniversary celebration. The blend of American sports, German hospitality, and honeymoon memories created a moment of pure contentment that encapsulated our entire Low Countries experience.