Kyoto - Japan

Apr 13

Arrival and First Taste of Local Life

Our arrival in Kyoto came wrapped in the drama of a heavy afternoon downpour, the kind of rain that transforms ancient streets into mirror-like reflections of traditional architecture. After settling into our Airbnb accommodation, we discovered that sometimes the best travel discoveries happen purely by chance. Just next door, a tiny establishment called Homemade Ramen Aoba beckoned with its warm glow against the gray afternoon.

This wasn't just any ramen shop—it was a masterclass in Japanese culinary philosophy. There were six counter seats, two ramen choices, and one dedicated chef who opened twice daily with the precision of a meditation practice. The proprietor worked alone, treating each bowl as a personal creation rather than fast food. His ramen spoke of tradition passed down through generations, rich broths simmered for hours, and noodles made fresh daily.

For approximately 4,100 yen (about $29), we savored two generous bowls and three large Asahi Dry beers while rain drummed against the windows. The experience taught us our first Kyoto lesson: the city's greatest treasures often come in the smallest packages, hidden in plain sight, waiting for travelers willing to step inside.

Apr 14

Temple Treasures and Market Adventures

Dawn broke clear and bright, washing away the previous day's rain and revealing Kyoto in all its spring glory. Our morning pilgrimage led us to Kiyomizu-dera Temple, one of Japan's most celebrated wooden temples, perched dramatically on the hillside of eastern Kyoto. Arriving early proved crucial—the temple complex revealed its true magnificence before tour buses arrived, allowing us to appreciate its architectural poetry in relative peace.

The famous wooden veranda jutting out over the hillside offered breathtaking views across the city, while the temple's sacred spring (from which it takes its name) provided spiritual refreshment for centuries of pilgrims. Walking back down through the expansive cemetery created an unexpectedly moving experience. The tall stone columns stood like guardians of memory, creating what felt like a miniature city dedicated to honoring ancestors.

Our afternoon adventure took us across the river to Kyoto's famous Nishiki Market, often called "Kyoto's Kitchen." Rather than sitting down for a traditional lunch, we embarked on a progressive tasting journey through the market's labyrinthine stalls. Our culinary exploration began with perfectly grilled wagyu beef skewers, prepared to order by vendors who treated each piece of meat like precious cargo.

The adventure continued with an array of grilled fish and shrimp preparations, each showcasing different regional techniques and flavor profiles. Perhaps the most memorable encounter came at a small stall offering sake tastings—premium varieties at 100 yen (70 cents USD) per shot, including one remarkable 70% alcohol variety that provided both warmth and courage for further market exploration.

The evening brought an extraordinary cultural experience: a private noodle-making lesson in the back room of a local ramen shop. While the techniques we learned seemed almost impossible to replicate in our home kitchen, the hands-on experience provided deep appreciation for the skill and patience required to create perfect ramen. Enjoying steaming bowls made from our own labor felt like earning a small degree in Japanese culinary arts.

Our day concluded with an impromptu neighborhood stroll that revealed one of Kyoto's most enchanting qualities: the incredible density of spiritual sites. Small shrines and temples appeared around every corner, each maintaining its sacred presence amid the rhythm of daily life, reminding us that in Kyoto, the spiritual and mundane exist in perfect harmony.

Apr 15

Nara Excursion and Ancient Wonders

An early train carried us from Kyoto to Nara, Japan's first permanent capital and home to some of the country's most impressive Buddhist treasures. The journey itself provided a delightful preview of the Kansai region's countryside, with small cities and rice fields flowing past our windows.

Upon arrival, we joined the procession of visitors walking through Nara Park, famous for its population of over 1,000 free-roaming sika deer. These sacred messengers of the Shinto gods have learned to bow for crackers, creating delightful interactions with visitors brave enough to purchase deer treats.

Our primary destination, Todai-ji Temple and its Great Buddha Hall, houses one of the world's most impressive bronze Buddha statues. Standing 15 meters tall and weighing approximately 500 tons, this 8th-century masterpiece represents the pinnacle of ancient Japanese artistic achievement. The hall itself, while a reconstruction, remains one of the world's largest wooden buildings, creating an appropriately grand home for such a magnificent statue.

As crowds swelled around the main temple complex, we discovered Nara's secret: venture beyond the primary attractions to find tranquil spaces where deer graze peacefully among smaller shrines dotting the hillsides. These quieter areas allowed for more intimate wildlife encounters and provided the contemplative atmosphere that draws spiritual seekers to Nara.

Three hours disappeared effortlessly as we wandered through this living museum where nature, spirituality, and history coexist seamlessly. Hunger eventually drew us back to the marketplace near the train station, where we indulged in wagyu shabu-shabu—paper-thin slices of premium beef briefly cooked in savory broth and enhanced with traditional accompaniments.

The return journey aboard the Aoniyoshi Limited Express train provided comfortable seats and panoramic windows, perfect for processing the day's experiences while watching the Japanese countryside evolve from rural to urban as we approached Kyoto.

Apr 16

Sacred Mountains and Culinary Perfection

Our final full day in Kyoto began with a subway ride to Fushimi Inari Station, gateway to one of Japan's most photographed and spiritually significant sites. Fushimi Inari Taisha shrine, famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates cascading up Mount Inari, attracts millions of visitors annually—a popularity that becomes immediately apparent upon arrival.

The lower shrine complex and initial torii gates were shoulder-to-shoulder crowded, making photography challenging and contemplation nearly impossible. After receiving our goshuin (temple stamp) as a spiritual souvenir, we made a decision that transformed our entire experience: instead of following the main trail, we took what appeared to be a simple dirt access road leading to the right.

This seemingly insignificant choice led us onto a mountain trail that few tourists discover. As we climbed, the crowds vanished behind us, replaced by the sounds of birds and rustling bamboo. Our first reward came quickly: a stone shrine guarded by fox statues, the sacred messengers of Inari, the Shinto deity of rice, prosperity, and foxes. Having this sacred space entirely to ourselves felt like receiving a private audience with Japanese spirituality.

The trail continued upward through impressive bamboo forests, creating natural cathedrals of green light. Each shrine we encountered featured fox guardians wearing red kerchiefs around their necks, stone gates marking sacred boundaries, and often small waterfalls providing musical accompaniment to our meditation. Few other hikers shared this path, allowing us to spend unhurried time at each shrine, resting, reflecting, and absorbing the mountain's peaceful energy.

Reaching Mount Inari's summit provided both physical accomplishment and spiritual satisfaction. The return journey followed the shorter loop trail marked by the famous vermilion torii gates—over 10,000 in total, according to shrine records. These gates, donated by individuals and businesses seeking Inari's blessings, create tunnels of sacred light that transform walking into a moving meditation.

Halfway down, we stopped at a traditional tea station serving snacks and refreshments, providing fuel for the final descent. As we rejoined the main shrine area, crowds thickened dramatically, confirming our morning's wisdom in choosing the road less traveled. Our three-hour hike, equivalent to climbing 55 floors, ranked among our trip's most rewarding experiences.

Evening brought us to a neighborhood restaurant specializing in okonomiyaki, the savory pancake beloved throughout the Kansai region. Sitting at the counter, we watched the chef transform simple ingredients—cabbage, flour, eggs, and various proteins—into aromatic masterpieces on the griddle. The interactive cooking style, combined with the chef's obvious pride in his craft, created an intimate dining experience that epitomized Japanese hospitality.

The okonomiyaki itself, customized with our preferred ingredients and topped with dancing bonito flakes, savory sauce, and Japanese mayonnaise, provided the perfect comfort food ending to an adventurous day. This meal, more than any expensive restaurant experience, captured the essence of Japanese food culture: simple ingredients elevated through technique, passion, and attention to detail.

Apr 17

Farewell to the Ancient Capital

Our final morning in Kyoto arrived with bittersweet clarity. An early wake-up call prepared us for the journey ahead: boarding the Thunderbird Express and Shinkansen trains bound for Kanazawa, our next destination. As our taxi navigated Kyoto's narrow streets one final time, we carried with us not just memories and photographs, but a deeper understanding of how this ancient capital continues to honor its past while embracing the present.