Karuizawa - Japan

Apr 19

Arrival in the Highland Haven

The two-hour Shinkansen journey from Kanazawa to Karuizawa provided a perfect transition from coastal sophistication to mountain tranquility. As our bullet train climbed through the Japanese Alps, we watched the landscape transform from industrial valleys to pristine forests and volcanic peaks. The approach to Karuizawa Station revealed a place where modern convenience meets alpine charm.

Karuizawa occupies a unique position in Japanese resort culture, serving as both a summer retreat from Tokyo's oppressive humidity and a winter playground for skiing enthusiasts. The spring air carried a crispness that immediately distinguished this mountain environment from the coastal cities we'd recently explored, while the preserved natural beauty suggested why this destination has maintained its exclusive reputation for generations.

Our accommodation, the Twin-Line Hotel, embodied Karuizawa's philosophy of comfortable elegance without ostentation. This locally-owned establishment provided the perfect base for exploring a town designed for leisurely discovery rather than rushed sightseeing.

Our first evening's exploration began with a stroll through Karuizawa's compact downtown area, where European-influenced architecture reflects the town's history as Japan's first international resort destination. A local restaurant specializing in chicken dishes provided our introduction to the area's culinary scene, where mountain ingredients and traditional preparations create comfort food elevated to art.

The evening's highlight came through serendipitous discovery: Quartet Brewing Company, a small craft brewery operated by a Japanese couple whose passion for beer had taken them to Michigan for formal training and around the world for inspiration. Their warm hospitality and expertly crafted brews provided the perfect introduction to Karuizawa's blend of international influences and local character. Listening to their stories of brewing adventures while sampling their creations reminded us that the best travel experiences often come through unexpected encounters with local artisans pursuing their dreams.

Apr 20

Waterfalls, Wandering, and Craft Beer Perfection

Morning arrived with the crisp mountain air that makes Karuizawa famous. It was accompanied by the Twin-Line Hotel's complimentary breakfast, which showcased both Japanese and Western options. The quality and presentation reflected the town's status as a destination for Tokyo's more discerning travelers, where attention to detail creates everyday luxury.

Our exploration of Karuizawa proper revealed a town designed for the upper echelons of Japanese society—not ostentatiously expensive, but thoughtfully curated with an emphasis on natural beauty and refined pleasures. The streets themselves felt like an outdoor gallery, where traditional architecture blends seamlessly with carefully preserved natural landscapes.

The day's primary adventure required a 40-minute bus journey into the mountains above town to reach Shiraito Falls, one of Japan's most unique natural phenomena. Unlike typical waterfalls created by rivers tumbling over rocky precipices, Shiraito Falls represents something far more magical: a 200-foot-wide aquifer spring where crystal-clear water simply seeps from the mountainside, creating hundreds of delicate streams that cascade like white silk threads—hence the name "Shiraito," meaning "white threads."

The gentle sound of countless small streams merging into a larger flow created a natural symphony that provided the perfect soundtrack for contemplation. This geological wonder, formed by volcanic activity and mountain hydrology, demonstrates nature's ability to create art without human intervention.

Near the bus stop, we encountered one of those perfect travel moments that can't be planned: an elderly mountain dweller selling freshly grilled trout from a small roadside setup. Trying his expertly prepared fish while waiting for our return bus provided both sustenance and connection to the local way of life that has sustained mountain communities for generations.

Back in town, we dedicated our afternoon to exploring Karuizawa's main shopping street, where boutiques, galleries, and food vendors create a leisurely browsing experience. The street food sampling—from local mountain vegetables to artisanal sweets—provided insights into regional ingredients and preparation techniques that distinguish mountain cuisine from coastal alternatives.

Late afternoon brought us back to the Twin-Line Hotel to collect complimentary bicycles for a ride to Kumoba Pond, often called "Swan Lake" for its serene beauty and the waterfowl that frequent its shores. The gentle cycling through forest paths, with mountain peaks reflected in the pond's mirror-like surface, epitomized Karuizawa's ability to provide nature therapy within easy reach of comfortable accommodations.

Dinner at a traditional Soba House showcased another aspect of mountain cuisine—buckwheat noodles made from locally grown grain, served in clear broths that highlighted rather than masked the noodles' nutty flavor. The simplicity and purity of soba preparation reflected Karuizawa's overall aesthetic: natural ingredients treated with respect and minimal intervention.

Our evening concluded with a nightcap back at Quartet Brewing, where continued conversation with the owners revealed their philosophy of creating beers that reflect both international techniques and local character. Their passion for their craft, combined with their warm hospitality, exemplified the personal connections that make small-town travel so rewarding.

Apr 21

Farewell to Mountain Paradise

Our final morning in Karuizawa began with another excellent breakfast at the Twin-Line Hotel. We savored both the meal and the mountain air, which had become such a refreshing change from urban environments. The walk to the station provided one last opportunity to appreciate the town's careful balance between development and natural preservation.

Boarding the Shinkansen for Tokyo, we carried with us not just memories of beautiful waterfalls and craft beer but also an appreciation for a different pace of life that prioritizes quality over quantity, natural beauty over artificial entertainment, and personal connections over mass tourism. Karuizawa had revealed itself as more than just a resort destination—it was a reminder that sometimes the best travel experiences come from simply slowing down and allowing a place to reveal its character gradually.