Apr 17

Arrival in the City of Gold

Our Kanazawa adventure began with an early morning departure from Kyoto aboard the sleek Thunderbird Express, which would connect us to the legendary Shinkansen network. The journey itself provided a masterclass in Japanese rail efficiency—seamless transfers, punctual departures, and comfortable seating that transformed travel time into relaxation time. Watching the landscape evolve from Kyoto's urban sprawl to the dramatic coastline and mountain vistas of Ishikawa Prefecture built anticipation for the cultural treasures awaiting us.

The 15-minute walk from Kanazawa Station to Hotel Kanazawa Zoushi introduced us to the city's unhurried pace and thoughtful urban planning. This modern Japanese hotel embodied the perfect balance between contemporary comfort and traditional aesthetics, though our early arrival meant rooms weren't quite ready for occupancy.

Rather than wait, we embraced the opportunity for immediate exploration, walking to the nearby Oyama Shrine, famous for its unique Western-influenced gate designed by a Dutch architect in the Meiji period. This architectural fusion—combining Shinto traditions with European design elements—perfectly symbolizes Kanazawa's historical openness to outside influences while maintaining its core Japanese identity.

Our afternoon exploration extended to Kanazawa Castle and its surrounding parklands. The reconstructed castle structures, built using traditional techniques and materials, provided glimpses of the wealth and power that once defined this region. From the castle grounds, we caught tantalizing glimpses of the famous Kenroku-en Garden, one of Japan's three most beautiful gardens—a preview that made us eager for the following day's detailed exploration.

Returning to Hotel Zoushi as afternoon light began to fade, we discovered an unexpected treasure: the rooftop onsen with panoramic views of the snow-capped Japanese Alps. The contrast between the intensely hot mineral waters and the cool mountain view created an almost spiritual experience. Having these therapeutic pools virtually to ourselves felt like a private mountain retreat, the kind of unexpected luxury that makes hotel selection crucial for creating memorable travel experiences and soothing weary muscles.

Evening brought us to a local establishment specializing in traditional bento dinners. There, carefully compartmentalized meals showcased Kanazawa's reputation for culinary artistry. The presentation alone—each item placed with precision—reminded us that in Japan, every meal represents a form of aesthetic expression.

Our day concluded with a peaceful riverside walk, following the Asano River as its gentle waters reflected the lights of traditional architecture lining its banks. This tranquil evening stroll provided the perfect transition from travel mode to vacation mindset, preparing us for deeper cultural explorations ahead.

Apr 18

Gardens, Samurai, and Golden Delights

Morning arrived with the promise of discovery, beginning with Hotel Zoushi's impressive breakfast buffet that catered to both Japanese and Western appetites. The quality and variety—from perfectly grilled fish and miso soup to fresh pastries and seasonal fruits—demonstrated the Japanese commitment to excellence in every aspect of hospitality.

Our primary destination for the day was Kenroku-en Garden, consistently ranked among Japan's three most beautiful gardens and a living masterpiece of landscape design. This expansive 25-acre garden, developed over two centuries by successive generations of the Maeda family, embodies the six essential qualities of the perfect garden: spaciousness, tranquility, artifice, antiquity, water features, and scenic views.

Every pathway through Kenroku-en revealed new perspectives on the art of garden design—from the famous Kotoji-toro lantern reflected in Kasumiga-ike Pond to the ingenious yukitsuri rope supports that protect pine branches from heavy winter snow. Spring's arrival had awakened the garden's diverse plantings, creating a living calendar of seasonal beauty that changes daily throughout the year.

Adjacent to the garden, we explored two distinctly different spiritual sites. Kanazawa Shrine honored the Maeda family's patron deity, while Ishiura Shrine celebrated more ancient Shinto traditions. Both locations welcomed us to add entries to our goshuin collection, providing sacred souvenirs and supporting these important cultural institutions.

Our cultural education continued in the Nagamachi Samurai District, where narrow streets lined with earthen walls and traditional gates preserve the atmosphere of feudal Japan. The Nomura-ke Samurai Heritage Residence, with its elegant interior gardens, tea ceremony rooms, and displays of armor and swords that once defined this warrior class, offered intimate insights into samurai family life.

Perhaps the most delightful discovery came at a small shop specializing in gold leaf ice cream cones—a uniquely Kanazawan treat that celebrates the city's dominance in Japan's gold leaf production industry. For centuries, Kanazawa has produced over 99% of Japan's gold leaf, used in everything from temple decorations to luxury cosmetics. Eating ice cream adorned with actual gold leaf felt simultaneously extravagant and playful, perfectly capturing Kanazawa's blend of serious craftsmanship and joyful creativity.

Late afternoon brought us to Omicho Market, known as "Kanazawa's Kitchen" for its 300-year history as the city's primary seafood marketplace. We chose one of the many specialized sushi restaurants for our late lunch/early dinner, discovering the convenience and efficiency of iPad ordering systems that eliminated language barriers while allowing detailed customization of our meal.

Our sushi adventure included several local specialties: Black-throat Sea Bream (Nodo-guro), considered one of the finest fish in the Sea of Japan; delicately prepared puffer fish that showcased the chef's expertise; and incredibly fresh sea urchin that melted on John's tongue with oceanic intensity. Each piece represented not just a meal, but a lesson in Kanazawa's relationship with the sea and its commitment to showcasing ingredients at their peak.

The evening concluded with another session in the hotel's rooftop onsen, followed by leisurely shopping through the market area. Vendors offered everything from local sake to handcrafted souvenirs that captured Kanazawa's artistic heritage.

Apr 19

Final Tastes and Mountain Views

Our final morning in Kanazawa began with a peaceful onsen session, with mountain views and therapeutic waters providing a meditative start to the day. The combination of natural hot springs and snow-capped mountain vistas created a uniquely Japanese experience that epitomized the country's mastery of harmonizing human comfort with natural beauty.

One last visit to Omicho Market provided our farewell meal, where we savored the final tastes of Kanazawa's renowned seafood while observing the market's morning rhythm. Watching vendors arrange their displays with museum-quality precision, greeting regular customers with warm familiarity, and maintaining centuries-old traditions in a modern setting reminded us that Kanazawa's greatest treasure is its ability to honor the past while embracing the present.

The Hakutaka Shinkansen departure provided a comfortable, scenic journey through mountain landscapes that showcased central Japan's dramatic geography. The train's punctuality, cleanliness, and spacious seating reinforced our appreciation for Japanese transportation excellence, turning travel time into an opportunity for reflection and landscape appreciation rather than mere necessity.

As we departed Kanazawa, we carried with us more than memories and photographs. We had experienced a city that represents the best of Japanese cultural preservation, where traditional crafts flourish, gardens provide spiritual refreshment, and culinary traditions continue to evolve while honoring their origins.