Hakone - Japan

Apr 11

Into the Heart of Traditional Japan

Hakone adventure began early in the morning with a quick stop at the ubiquitous 7-Eleven convenience store for travel snacks—a ritual that would become second nature during our Japan travels. The morning rush hour subway ride to Shinjuku Station tested our patience, but the anticipation of boarding the famous Romancecar kept our spirits high. This premium express train, operated by Odakyu Electric Railway, has been whisking travelers from Tokyo to Hakone since 1957, and its panoramic windows and comfortable seating make it clear why it remains so beloved.

Before departing, we discovered a small station shop selling exquisite bento boxes—those perfectly compartmentalized Japanese lunch boxes that transform train dining into an art form. As the Romancecar glided through Tokyo's urban sprawl and into the rolling hills of Kanagawa Prefecture, we savored each carefully prepared morsel while watching our first glimpses of rural Japan unfold outside our windows.

The 15-minute walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station to our first accommodation, Hakone Onsen Ryokan Yaeikan, served as a gentle introduction to the town's unhurried pace. This traditional ryokan, with its wooden architecture and carefully tended gardens, embodied everything we'd dreamed about Japanese hospitality. Though check-in wasn't until later, the staff graciously stored our luggage, allowing us to begin exploring immediately.

Our first destination was the mystical Lake Ashi (Ashinoko). This crater lake, formed over 3,000 years ago by volcanic activity, is home to the famous vermilion torii gate of Hakone Shrine, which seems to float on its surface. The bus ride there revealed sweeping mountain vistas, and we quickly understood why this area has inspired artists and poets for generations.

The 35-minute wait in line for the perfect photograph at the Hakone Shrine's lakeside torii tested our patience but proved absolutely worth it. Standing in the shadow of this sacred gate, we searched for Mount Fuji's silhouette, but it was elusive. However, we felt connected to the millions of pilgrims who have made this same journey seeking spiritual renewal.

Returning to our traditional Japanese hotel in the late afternoon, we experienced our first true ryokan welcome. The staff, representing the fourth generation of the same family, greeted us with deep bows and warm smiles that characterize Japanese omotenashi (hospitality). Our room featured tatami mats, low furniture, and most thrilling of all—a private onsen (mineral spring bath).

The evening's kaiseki dinner, served in our room on a low table while we sat on silk cushions, was nothing short of a culinary symphony. An elderly woman, moving with the grace of decades of practice, presented each of the 14 courses with explanations we couldn't understand but appreciated deeply. Meanwhile, an even more elderly gentleman prepared our futon beds for the night, transforming our dining room into a sleeping sanctuary with practiced efficiency.

Pro Tip: The Hakone Free Pass at 6,500 yen (approximately $45) proved invaluable, providing unlimited access to trains, buses, cable cars, and boats throughout the region. This pass essentially pays for itself with just a few rides and eliminates the stress of constantly purchasing tickets.

Apr 12

Volcanic Adventures and Luxury Soaking

Morning arrived with a traditional Japanese breakfast that challenged our Western preconceptions about the most important meal of the day. Grilled fish, pickled vegetables, miso soup, and perfectly seasoned rice created a harmony of flavors that energized us for the adventures ahead. The attention to detail—from the placement of each dish to the quality of the ceramic bowls—reminded us that in Japan, every meal is a form of art.

Before departing Yaeikan, we couldn't resist exploring the communal onsen facilities. These gender-separated bathing areas, carved from natural stone and surrounded by carefully manicured gardens, offered a more authentic onsen experience than our private bath. The unspoken etiquette of communal bathing, the therapeutic properties of the mineral-rich waters, and the meditative quality of soaking in near-silence created a profound sense of relaxation.

The Hakone Tozan Railway provided our next adventure—a scenic mountain train journey that's been operating since 1919. This engineering marvel winds its way up the mountainside through a series of switchbacks, offering glimpses of hidden temples, rushing streams, and traditional mountain villages. Each tunnel and bridge revealed new perspectives on Hakone's natural beauty, making the journey to Gora Station an attraction in itself.

Our second ryokan, Nagominoyado Hanagokoro in Gora, represented a different style of traditional accommodation. After storing our luggage, we continued our ascent via the Hakone Tozan Cable Car, a funicular railway that climbs at impossibly steep angles to reach the Hakone Ropeway station.

The ropeway crossing over the active Owakudani volcanic valley ranks among the most thrilling experiences in all of Japan. Suspended high above the steaming crater, we could see sulfurous gases rising from the earth's depths, creating an otherworldly landscape that reminded us of the incredible geological forces that shaped this region. The Owakudani GeoMuseum provided insights into the area's volcanic history, while the famous black eggs—hard-boiled in the sulfur springs and said to extend life by seven years—offered both sustenance and hope for longevity.

The black soft-serve ice cream, while perhaps more novelty than necessity, completed our volcanic crater experience with a surprisingly pleasant vanilla flavor (despite its ominous appearance).

Returning to Hanagokoro, we discovered our room's crown jewel: a large ceramic soaking tub on our private deck, surrounded by bamboo screens. The evening's kaiseki dinner, served in an intimate private dining alcove in the dining room, showcased the chef's seasonal interpretation of traditional Japanese cuisine. Each course told a story of the region's natural bounty, from locally caught fish to mountain vegetables gathered that morning.

The evening dissolved into pure relaxation as we enjoyed our private onsen, letting the mineral-rich waters wash away any lingering tension from our day's adventures.

Apr 13

Farewell to the Mountains

Rain arrived overnight, transforming Hakone's mountains into a misty, ethereal landscape that seemed lifted from a classical Japanese painting. Fortunately, our departure day meant we could appreciate the moody beauty from the comfort of our bus to Odawara Station, even if we spent most of the 40-minute journey standing in the crowded aisle.

The winding descent through Hakone village, made slower by dense traffic, provided final glimpses of the traditional architecture and carefully tended gardens that had defined our stay. As the train to Kyoto pulled away from Odawara Station, we carried with us not just memories of beautiful landscapes and delicious food, but a deeper appreciation for the Japanese concepts of hospitality, mindfulness, and the healing power of natural hot springs.