Berlin - Germany (2025)

Aug 15

Sacramento to Seattle

Left Sacramento (SMF) on Alaska Airlines bound for Seattle (SEA). The flight was smooth. While in Seattle, I had a layover of a few hours and was excited to fly on Condor Airlines, a German company specializing in holiday destinations that have increased routes to/from the US during the summer months. My flight was on Condor's new A330-900neo with distinctive green stripes. Condor has gone "all-in" with the striped branding as nearly everything featured them: plane, hostess scarves/ties, blankets, headrests, amenity kits, napkins, and signage. You either love or hate it - I like it!

Aug 16

Frankfurt to Berlin

Landed at Frankfurt on a beautiful sunny morning. The plane was parked on the tarmac, so we took buses to the terminal. My tight connection worried me, but German efficiency lived up to its reputation. No lines at immigration—I walked straight to the agent, got my passport stamped, and my luggage was among the first on the belt.

I made it to the Frankfurt Airport train station with 15 minutes to spare to catch my reserved seat on InterCity Express (ICE) 796 train that would take me to Berlin's Hauptbahnhof. Frankfurt's airport train station, opened in 1999, serves as one of Europe's busiest rail hubs, connecting Germany's financial capital and largest airport to every major city. The train ride went smoothly until a mechanical issue delayed us about 30 minutes outside of Wolfsburg, but we eventually rolled into Berlin, where Helena met me at the platform asTomas was still at work.

Their apartment sits on the edge of Mitte and Wedding—two districts that perfectly represent Berlin's evolution. Mitte, meaning "middle," was East Berlin's political center and has transformed into one of Europe's most vibrant cultural quarters. Wedding, once a working-class stronghold located in the West's French sector, has emerged as one of Berlin's most diverse and creative neighborhoods, attracting residents like Tomas and Helena who want authentic urban living without tourist crowds.

What a reunion with Kylo, their 85-pound German Shepherd-Husky mix! She absolutely remembered me and was so excited to see me again—pure joy after our long separation. Having lived with John and me during much of her early life during COVID, and then for four months while Tomas and Helena traveled Europe looking for their new home, she's been such an integral part of our extended family. Bringing her to Europe more than two years ago feels like yesterday, and seeing how perfectly she's adapted to Berlin's dog-friendly culture made me incredibly happy. We took her for a walk around the neighborhood, her eyes bright with happiness at having her American grandmother back in her life.

When Tomas got home from work, we headed to Don Pasquale for dinner. This neighborhood Italian spot represents how Berlin's international community has created authentic ethnic enclaves throughout the city. Ate outside and had a delicious pizza while watching the evening rhythm of their adopted neighborhood.

Aug 17

Bikes, Lakes, and River Discovery

Tomas and I went on a bike ride to Plötzensee and the surrounding park while Helena tackled her 20-plus-mile marathon training run. With the Berlin Marathon only one month away, she couldn't miss this important long run, which would keep her on schedule for her second attempt at the famous race.

The bike ride to Plötzensee was only 5 minutes from their apartment, revealing one of the greatest advantages of their Mitte-Wedding location. Plötzensee offers Berliners a natural swimming lake surrounded by parkland, creating an oasis of nature within the urban environment. This 18-acre lake, formed during the last ice age, provides year-round recreation for locals who swim, sunbathe, jog, and cycle around its perimeter.

We rested along the banks of the Spree, watching tourist boats drift by while enjoying the peaceful contrast to urban energy. The park surrounding Plötzensee connects to the larger green belt that makes Berlin unique among European capitals—over 30% of the city consists of parks, forests, and water, creating breathing space that enhances quality of life immeasurably.

Cycling with Tomas through these quiet paths, I understood why he and Helena had fallen in love with this location. The ability to bike from their apartment to natural swimming areas in minutes represents a lifestyle that balances urban sophistication with outdoor recreation—exactly what attracts young professionals to Berlin over other European capitals.

Mid-afternoon, after Helena completed her training run, we took a Spree river cruise on the "Hemingway", an electric-powered, historic ship built in 1908. The Spree river cruise reveals Berlin's unique geography—a city built on water and marshland, with the Spree serving as both natural boundary and unifying thread. The river flows 250 miles from the Czech Republic through Berlin to the Havel River, creating a network of waterways that allowed Berlin to develop as a major trading center in medieval times. It was also once denoted the border between East and West Berlin.

From the water, you see how architects have embraced the riverfront across centuries—from 18th-century baroque palaces to cutting-edge contemporary buildings. Museum Island, where we slowly drifted past, began as a marshy area that Prussian kings transformed into their cultural showcase. The boat offered perspectives on how water shaped Berlin's development and continues to provide recreational escape from urban intensity.

Aug 18

Unter der Linden Exploration

Helena had a long training run, and Tomas worked a long shift to save up vacation days for our trip to the Baltic Sea in a few days. This was a perfect opportunity to explore at my own pace and practice some German.

Took the U-Bahn to Unter der Linden station and wandered the museum area. Started at Bebelplatz, where Nazi students burned over 20,000 books on May 10, 1933. The square is surrounded by beautiful baroque buildings, including the State Opera, St. Hedwig's Cathedral (Berlin's first Catholic church), and the Old Library. There's an underground memorial visible through glass in the square—empty bookshelves symbolizing the knowledge that was lost. The memorial inscription by Heinrich Heine from 1823 proved prophetic: "Where books are burned, people will also, in the end, be burned."

The Berlin State Library, founded in 1661 as the Churfürstliche Bibliothek of Brandenburg, houses over 25 million items and was my next stop. Originally established to serve the Prussian court, it became one of the world's largest universal libraries. Today, it's split between two locations, with this historic building serving as the main research facility. On this sunny day, I stopped in the library's cafe for a bit of coffee and pastry and sat in a magnificent courtyard.

Hit the German Historical Museum, housed in the Zeughaus (Arsenal), originally housed in the oldest building on Unter den Linden, built between 1695 and 1706. Originally a Prussian weapons depot, it became a museum in 1952. The collection spans 2,000 years of German history, from Roman times through reunification, and it is presented with remarkable honesty about both achievements and failures. It is now in an extradinarially modern building next door.

I walked through Lustgarten, originally a Renaissance pleasure garden for the Prussian royal family, later transformed into a military parade ground, and now a public park. The space embodies Berlin's constant reinvention—from royal recreation to political theater to democratic gathering place.

The Humboldt Forum stands where the Berlin Palace (Stadtschloss) was located from 1443 until its destruction in World War II and subsequent demolition by East German authorities in 1950. The reconstructed baroque facade houses contemporary exhibition spaces dedicated to world cultures. The Berlin World exhibit showed how this city has influenced global culture through art, music, and intellectual exchange. The rooftop provided excellent city views and a good lunch spot.

Walked toward the Rotes Rathaus (Red City Hall), built between 1861-1869 in North German brick Gothic style, and caught the S-Bahn back from Hackescher Markt. This station area, once the heart of Jewish Berlin before WWII, has become one of the city's liveliest districts with galleries, boutiques, and restaurants. It looked so different than when I last saw it in December 2023, as the park in front was home to a large Christmas market.

Once Tomas finished work, we went to Mobait for Vietnamese food. I practiced my German with the server—it's still very basic, but I'm getting more confident with basic conversations.

Aug 19

Baltic Coast Adventure

Caught the regional train from Berlin Hauptbahnhof to Warnemünde. Nearly three hours with a connection and final S-Bahn from Rostock, but all covered by our Deutschland passes—the monthly ticket costing only €58 ($67), which makes German travel incredibly accessible both within cities and regionally.

Berlin Hauptbahnhof, opened in 2006, is Europe's largest crossing station, with trains running on five levels. The glass and steel architecture creates an impressive gateway to Germany's rail network. Our journey took us through Brandenburg's pine forests and lake-dotted countryside before reaching Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, Germany's northeastern state known for its Baltic coastline.

Warnemünde began as a fishing village in the 12th century and developed into a significant port town. Today, it serves as both a cruise ship destination and a beloved German seaside resort. The picturesque inlet (the Alter Strom) buzzes with restaurants and snack bars serving fischbrötchen—fresh fish sandwiches that represent northern German maritime culture. These simple sandwiches, typically featuring herring, salmon, or fried fish with onions and pickles on crusty rolls, have been sustaining fishermen and dock workers for generations.

Had lunch at one of the inlet restaurants overlooking the Baltic Sea. Our Airbnb was perfectly located just one block from the beach promenade, giving us easy access to Warnemünde's 490-foot-wide sandy beach that stretches for miles along the coast.

We spent the afternoon at the beach, soaking up the sun. Evening wandering revealed a town that has preserved its fishing village character while adapting to tourism. The local grocery shopping became a cultural lesson—German supermarkets offer incredible variety and quality, reflecting the country's commitment to food excellence.

Aug 20

Coastal Life and Culture

Lazy day in Warnemünde. Tomas and Helena went on a 12k run along the beach into the forest, following paths that led through rural landscapes with grazing cows—the kind of pastoral scene that makes northern Germany so appealing.

Started with pastries from Junge Bakery, a local institution that represents German baking excellence. German bakeries are neighborhood cornerstones, often family-owned businesses that have perfected their craft over generations. The morning pastries provided the perfect fuel for exploration.

Three large cruise ships were docked at Warnemünde's port, which handles over 200 cruise ship visits annually. The ships brought thousands of passengers to explore this region of the Baltic coast. The crowds reminded us how popular this area is with international travelers.

Rode the big Ferris wheel for spectacular views across the Baltic Sea toward Denmark and Sweden. On clear days, you can see the Danish island of Falster 35 miles away. The wheel offers 360-degree perspectives of how this coastal region fits into Northern European geography.

We had lunch at the boat restaurants—actual boats permanently docked and serving people on shore, a charming maritime tradition. Tomas ordered a pickled herring sandwich (fischbrötchen), a classic preparation that preserves fish using centuries-old Baltic techniques. I had fried fish, and Helena got the vegetarian version. All were excellent examples of regional specialties.

It's a long walk along the beach promenade to the forest edge and back along the shore. German beaches feature designated zones—textile-free (Freikörperkultur or FKK), clothing required, and mixed areas. This naturist tradition, particularly strong in former East Germany, reflects German attitudes toward body acceptance and personal freedom. After initial surprise, the nude bathers became completely unremarkable, just part of the coastal landscape.

Helena and Tomas made seafood pasta for dinner at the Airbnb using local Baltic fish. We spent the evening watching a movie together—the kind of simple family time that I have missed with them being located across the World.

Aug 21

Rostock Sprint and Berlin Return

We cleaned up the Airbnb and caught the 10:31 S-Bahn to Rostock. Our original plan was to explore Rostock for a few hours and then catch an afternoon train to Berlin. Rostock, founded around 1200, was once the most powerful city in the medieval Hanseatic League, controlling Baltic trade routes. Today, it remains Mecklenburg-Vorpommern's largest city and major port.

While putting bags in a locker at Rostock Hauptbahnhof, we spotted a Berlin-bound regional train departing in 2 minutes. Helena quickly checked—it was covered by the Deutschland pass and went directly to Berlin Hauptbahnhof. We grabbed our bags and sprinted down stairs, across several tracks, up more stairs, and jumped on just as the doors were closing. Sometimes, travel luck works perfectly.

The direct train saved us hours and demonstrated the comprehensive nature of Germany's rail network. Even smaller regional routes connect seamlessly to major cities, making spontaneous travel changes possible with the monthly Deutschland pass.

Back in Berlin, we met Helena's friend Maria, a Ukrainian transplant before the war with Russia. Maria is currently studying photography in Berlin and dog-sitting Kylo while we went to the Baltic Sea. We had lunch together at Hanoi, a Vietnamese restaurant in their neighborhood. Berlin's Vietnamese community, numbering around 20,000 people, established roots during East German guest worker programs and has created some of Berlin's best Asian cuisine.

Helena went for another training run while I checked out a potential December Airbnb location for when I return with our family group for Christmas. The apartment turned out to be far from transport and shops—a reminder that location matters enormously in Berlin, where neighborhood character varies dramatically within short distances. I decided to stick with the original booking, which offered better access to the U-Bahn and local amenities.

Tomas headed to evening football training with ASV Berlin, the amateur club where he's found community and stayed fit while adapting to German life.

Aug 22

Museums with Helena

Tomas worked another long shift, so Helena and I had a full museum day. Started at the Humboldt Forum and watched the 15-minute panorama movie about the site's history. The film traces this location from its origins as a medieval castle to the baroque Stadtschloss (City Palace) that served as the main residence of Prussian kings and German emperors from 1443 to 1918. After severe WWII damage, East German authorities demolished the ruins in 1950 to build the Palace of the Republic (East Germany's parliament building). Following reunification, Germans debated for decades before deciding to reconstruct the baroque exterior while creating completely modern exhibition spaces inside.

Walked across to the Altes Museum, built between 1823 and 1830 by Karl Friedrich Schinkel. This neoclassical masterpiece was Prussia's first public museum, designed to educate citizens rather than serve only royal collections. The building itself makes powerful statements about democracy and culture—its columned rotunda was inspired by the Roman Pantheon, symbolizing how 19th-century Germans connected their emerging nation to classical civilization.

The collection focuses on ancient civilizations—Greek sculptures, Roman artifacts, and Etruscan treasures that helped Germans understand their place in European cultural development. Schinkel designed the galleries with natural lighting and flowing spaces that made art accessible to ordinary citizens, a revolutionary concept in 1830.

Had lunch at Avocado Cafe—excellent healthy options that represent Berlin's contemporary food scene. German cities have embraced international cuisine and health-conscious dining with enthusiasm. Checked out a Latin market a few doors down, part of Berlin's thriving immigrant communities that have enriched the city's cultural landscape, and a place where Helena can obtain empanada supplies and Mexican hot sauce.

We took the S-Bahn to Hauptbahnhof and walked to Hamburger Bahnhof. Built in 1847 by Friedrich Neuhaus as Berlin's terminus for trains to Hamburg, this neoclassical railway station has served passengers since 1884. After decades of various uses, it reopened in 1996 as the Museum für Gegenwart (Museum of Contemporary Art).

The transformation exemplifies Berlin's genius for adaptive reuse—the soaring spaces that once echoed with steam engines and passenger announcements now showcase works by Andy Warhol, Cy Twombly, Robert Rauschenberg, and other contemporary masters. The building's railway heritage enhances rather than competes with the art, creating unique exhibition spaces that feel both industrial and refined.

Current exhibits feature emerging European artists exploring urban transformation and digital culture—themes that resonate strongly in the city where Tomas and Helena are building their future.

After Tomas got off work, we returned to Don Pasquale's for dinner, which quickly became our neighborhood tradition.

Aug 23

Olympic Park Deep Dive

Tomas had another work day, and Helena had her crucial 22-mile marathon training run, so I ventured solo to the Olympic Stadium. The €19 ($22) English tour ended up being nearly private—only three people total—myself and a French couple.

The comprehensive 2.5-hour tour covered the entire Olympic Park, built for Hitler's 1936 Summer Olympics as a showcase of Nazi ideology. The stadium, designed by Werner March, seats 74,475 spectators and was intended to demonstrate Aryan superiority. Instead, it became the stage for Jesse Owens' legendary four gold medals, which thoroughly undermined Nazi racial theories.

The complex includes multiple facilities: Hertha Berlin's training grounds (the Bundesliga 2 team has played here since 1963), the Olympic swimming pool where competitions still occur, gymnastics halls, and athletics facilities. The architecture reflects 1930s monumentalism—massive stone structures designed to intimidate and impress.

Most fascinating was learning about the British military occupation from 1945 to 1994. After WWII, the British Army transformed parts of the Olympic Park into military housing, schools, shopping centers, and recreation facilities for military families. This created a unique Anglo-German community that lasted nearly 50 years, with British children growing up speaking German and German staff working on British bases.

The tour included areas most visitors never see: athlete locker rooms, press facilities, indoor warm-up areas, VIP lounges, and the infamous "Führerloge"—Hitler's viewing box for the 1936 games. The guide explained how this space is now used for educational purposes, helping visitors understand how architecture and sport can be manipulated for political propaganda.

After the tour, I wandered around independently, visited the Hertha Berlin fan shop, and got currywurst and fries at the stadium restaurant. Currywurst, invented in Berlin in 1949, consists of steamed then fried pork sausage seasoned with curry powder and served with tangy tomato sauce. It's become Berlin's signature fast food, sold from street stands throughout the city.

The 30-minute journey back via S-Bahn and U-Bahn gave me time to process the complex emotions that arise from visiting sites where tragedy and triumph intersect.

Evening dinner at Mr. Noodle Chen's—excellent Asian food at reasonable prices. Berlin's Asian restaurant scene benefits from multiple immigrant communities that have brought authentic regional cuisines to German neighborhoods.

We stopped at a local Spati (short for Spätkauf, meaning "late purchase"). These convenience stores, often run by immigrant families, stay open late and serve as neighborhood social hubs. For €9 ($10.50), we got three beers, a soda, and two ice cream bars. Tomas mentioned this was more expensive than regular grocery stores, but still quite reasonable—these corner stores prioritize convenience over bulk pricing.

Aug 24

Football Culture

Tomas played an away game with ASV Berlin near the airport. ASV (Allgemeiner Sportverein) represents the kind of community-based amateur football that forms the backbone of German sports culture. These neighborhood clubs provide social connection, physical fitness, and friendly competition for millions of Germans across all skill levels.

The well-played match ended with ASV winning 3-1. Tomas was the team's engine in midfield and earned a yellow card for his constant banter with the official. German amateur football takes itself seriously while maintaining the fun and camaraderie that make sports meaningful for participants and spectators alike.

We grabbed dinner afterward at Burgermeister, one of Berlin's most famous burger joints. The original location is in a former public toilet (Bedürfnisanstalt) beneath the U-Bahn tracks in Kreuzberg. This tiny restaurant opened in 2006 and quickly gained cult status.

Burgermeister represents Berlin's talent for creative repurposing and its unpretentious approach to quality food. The burgers are excellent, the location is bizarre, and the whole experience perfectly captures Berlin's quirky character.

Aug 25

Forest Adventures and Football Fandom

Helena, Kylo, and I ventured to Grunewald and hiked up Teufelsberg, Berlin's artificial mountain created from 25 million cubic yards of WWII rubble. Rising 377 feet above sea level, it's the highest point in West Berlin.

After the war, Allied forces needed somewhere to dispose of destroyed buildings, so they created this hill in the Grunewald forest between 1950-1972. During the Cold War, the US National Security Agency built a listening station on top, using massive radomes (radar domes) to intercept Soviet communications. After reunification, the abandoned facility became a canvas for street artists from around the world.

The hike through Grunewald forest showcases why Berliners value their green spaces so highly. This 7,400-acre forest provides hiking trails, lakes, and wildlife habitat just 9 miles from the city center. Kylo's excellent behavior on U-Bahn and S-Bahn trains, plus his joyful off-leash forest exploration, demonstrated how German culture accommodates dogs as genuine family members.

From Teufelsberg's summit, panoramic views reveal Berlin's surprising geography—how much forest and water surround this major European capital, creating a city that feels both urban and natural.

This evening we went to Tante Käthe bar in Prenzlauer Berg, the headquarters for Berlin Reds, Liverpool FC's official supporter club in Berlin. Once the heart of East German bohemian culture, Prenzlauer Berg has evolved into one of Berlin's most desirable neighborhoods, attracting young professionals and families.

Watching Liverpool vs. Newcastle with one of Tomas's teammates revealed how international football creates authentic global communities. These German fans follow the English Premier League with passionate intensity, gathering weekly to support their adopted team while maintaining a distinctly German approach to fan culture—organized, enthusiastic, but rarely aggressive.

Aug 26

Underground Berlin

Helena and I joined the Berliner Unterwelten Cold War bunker tour near Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station. "Dark Worlds" tour visited two authentic bunkers designed to protect civilians during nuclear attacks during the height of Cold War tensions.

The bunker could house 3,339 people for two weeks during a nuclear war. Preserved exactly as it was left, it contains original equipment, medical supplies, food rations, water purification systems, and sleeping facilities. The cramped conditions and institutional atmosphere provide sobering insight into how authorities prepared for atomic warfare while ordinary Berliners lived normal lives above ground. The second bunker demonstrated the evolution of civil defense thinking, with improved ventilation systems, better living quarters, and more sophisticated communication equipment. Both bunkers were maintained until the early 1990s by full-time staff who tested systems regularly and rotated supplies.

Berliner Unterwelten, founded in 1997, has explored over 60 underground sites throughout Berlin, from medieval cellars to WWII air raid shelters to Cold War installations. Their tours reveal the hidden infrastructure that allowed this city to survive multiple catastrophes while maintaining civilian life.

Helena had a concert that evening, so Tomas and I had dinner at Repke Spätzlerei in the Charlottenburg district. This restaurant specializes in Swabian cuisine from southwestern Germany, particularly spätzle—soft egg noodles that are a regional specialty. Swabian food represents hearty, traditional German cooking that has sustained agricultural communities for centuries. The restaurant's location in Charlottenburg, West Berlin's most elegant district, shows how regional German cuisines have found homes throughout the capital.

Aug 27

Bavarian Spa Discovery

As both Tomas and Helena were working, I left Berlin on my trek, ultimately to Frankfurt, but with a stop for the evening in Bad Kissingen via ICE and regional trains. About 2.5 hours total, two-thirds of the way to Frankfurt. The ICE (Inter-City Express) reached speeds up to 100 mph, connecting Berlin to Bavaria with remarkable efficiency.

Bad Kissingen sits in the Franconian Saale valley in northern Bavaria, where mineral springs have attracted visitors since Celtic and Roman times. The town's spa culture began in earnest when Prince-Bishop Julius Echter von Mespelbrunn declared the waters beneficial in 1590. By the 19th century, it had become Europe's most fashionable spa destination, earning the nickname "Weltbad" (World Spa).

Kings, emperors, composers, and intellectuals flocked here seeking the healing properties of seven mineral springs, each with distinct chemical compositions and purported health benefits. Otto von Bismarck, Richard Wagner, Ludwig II of Bavaria, and Empress Elisabeth of Austria all regularly took cures here.

Stayed at Kaiserhof Victoria, built in 1906 during the town's Belle Époque golden age. This grand hotel hosted European royalty and high society seeking luxury accommodations during their spa treatments. The original architecture and amenities remain intact—spring water swimming pool fed by natural sources, multiple saunas, steam rooms, cold plunge pools, and elegant relaxation areas with complimentary refreshments.

The hotel's clientele was decidedly elderly, creating an atmosphere like an upscale retirement community, but the facilities delivered authentic German spa culture. German spa traditions emphasize health and wellness through natural mineral waters, heat therapy, and relaxation—a holistic approach to well-being that contrasts with American resort culture.

An evening walk through Bad Kissingen revealed a town that has preserved its 19th-century elegance while adapting to contemporary tourism. Free classical music concerts (moved indoors due to intermittent rain) continue the cultural traditions that made this a center of European high society. Tasted water from several of the seven mineral springs scattered throughout town—each with different mineral content and flavors ranging from mildly salty to distinctly sulfurous.

The half-timbered buildings throughout the old town represent traditional Franconian architecture, with exposed wooden frameworks filled with brick or plaster. These construction techniques, perfected over centuries, create the distinctive aesthetic that defines much of rural Bavaria.

Got a döner kebab from a popular local shop—Turkish immigrants brought this delicious fast food to Germany in the 1960s, and it's now as German as bratwurst. Enjoyed it on my hotel balcony while watching the evening spa town rituals of locals taking their evening constitutional walks.

Aug 28

Frankfurt Finale

The wonderful breakfast buffet exemplified European hotel hospitality—extensive variety presented in a classically beautiful dining room. German breakfast culture emphasizes quality and variety: multiple bread types, local cheeses, cured meats, fresh fruits, and various preparations that fuel the day properly.

The regional train from Bad Kissingen to Frankfurt, included in my Deutschland pass, provided comfortable transportation through the Bavarian and Hessian countryside. Light rain showers created atmospheric views of the Main River valley as we approached Germany's financial capital.

Frankfurt am Main, literally "Frankfurt on the Main River," serves as Germany's financial heart while maintaining surprising historical charm. The contrast between medieval Römer square and gleaming banking towers exemplifies how German cities balance preservation with progress.

Stayed at Steigenberger Frankfurter Hof, an elegant classic hotel opened in 1876 in Frankfurt's city center. This grand hotel has hosted European royalty, international business leaders, and cultural figures for nearly 150 years. Got an amazing room upgrade plus Amex Fine Hotels benefits—early check-in, breakfast inclusion, and $100 hotel credit that demonstrated how loyalty programs can significantly enhance travel experiences.

I walked to the Römer area, Frankfurt's medieval heart, where the Holy Roman Emperors were crowned from 1562 to 1792. The distinctive step-gabled buildings house Frankfurt's city hall and represent some of Germany's finest examples of medieval urban architecture. The square was reconstructed after WWII bombing, but maintains its essential character as the symbolic center of German imperial tradition.

Crossed the Eiserner Steg (Iron Bridge), a pedestrian bridge built in 1868 that connects Frankfurt's historic center with the Sachsenhausen district. The bridge offers excellent views of Frankfurt's unique skyline—the only German city with Manhattan-style skyscrapers, earning it the nickname "Mainhattan."

Wandered through Hauptwache, named after the baroque guardhouse that still anchors this busy square. This area serves as Frankfurt's primary shopping and transportation hub, where medieval street patterns meet contemporary commercial energy.

Had coffee and cake at Hauptwache Café, experiencing the German tradition of Kaffee und Kuchen—afternoon coffee paired with pastries that serve as both social ritual and energy boost. German café culture emphasizes quality over speed, with baristas who take pride in proper coffee preparation and pastries baked fresh daily.

Final souvenir shopping at DM (Germany's largest drugstore chain, founded in 1973) and the gummy candy store. German gummy candy, perfected by companies like Haribo (founded in Bonn in 1920), represents one of the country's most successful culinary exports.

I spent the evening at the hotel spa, which offers traditional German spa amenities, including saunas, steam rooms, and relaxation lounges, reflecting the country's commitment to wellness culture. I used the hotel credit for an elegant in-room dinner, creating the perfect transition from active exploration to departure preparation.

Aug 29

German Efficiency to American Home

Midday Condor flight from Frankfurt to Portland, then Alaska Airlines connection to Sacramento. Frankfurt Airport (Flughafen Frankfurt am Main) handles over 60 million passengers annually, making it Germany's busiest airport and one of the world's major aviation hubs. Built in the 1930s and expanded continuously, it serves as Lufthansa's primary hub and connects Germany to global destinations.

Frankfurt Airport's massive scale requires strategic planning. Five terminals spread across enormous distances mean arriving early prevents the stress of navigating check-in mazes, security procedures, and passport control under time pressure. German airports prioritize efficiency and functionality over comfort, but deliver reliable service that gets travelers to their destinations on schedule.

Found the Lufthansa Business lounge—nothing fancy but typically German in its practical approach. Clean, quiet, well-organized, with reliable WiFi and basic refreshments. The 11:50 am departure to Portland would begin my journey back to California, carrying memories of how my son and daughter-in-law have created genuine European lives.

The Condor flight, Germany's leisure airline founded in 1955, specializes in long-haul routes to vacation destinations. Their green-striped livery has become familiar to German travelers seeking affordable transatlantic connections, and the service reflects German values of reliability and efficiency without unnecessary frills.

As we descended into Portland, I opened the window shade to discover Mount St. Helens positioned directly outside my window—so close it felt like I could reach out and touch the snow-covered peak. The volcanic mountain, which dramatically erupted in 1980 and lost 1,312 feet of elevation, appeared magnificent in the clear Pacific Northwest air. No photograph could capture the overwhelming presence of this geological giant filling the aircraft window, providing a stunning American welcome after two weeks in Germany's gentler landscapes. The contrast was remarkable—from Berlin's human-scaled urban forests to this raw display of natural power that reminds you of the continent's volcanic backbone