Flores - Azores

Jul 22

Arrival at the Edge of the World

Our adventure began with what would prove to be the final flight of the day into Flores Airport (FLW), the small regional airstrip that opened in 1968 in the immediate vicinity of Santa Cruz das Flores. The approach to this westernmost European landing strip is nothing short of spectacular—volcanic peaks rise dramatically from the Atlantic while ribbons of waterfalls cascade down emerald cliffsides. Our SATA Air Azores aircraft descended through wisps of maritime clouds, offering glimpses of the island's famous crater lakes nestled like sapphires in the mountainous interior.

But paradise, as we quickly discovered, comes with its complications. Upon deplaning, we encountered our first taste of authentic Flores hospitality—mixed with a healthy dose of island logistics. The rental car company we had reserved with had simply ceased operations, leaving us stranded with luggage and no transportation on an island where public transportation consists of just three bus lines, with 2-4 trips per day and no service on weekends or public holidays.

Enter Susana from Atlantic Rental Cars—our guardian angel in practical clothing. With the kind of resourcefulness that defines island living, she not only arranged immediate transportation across the island to Fajazinha but took our WhatsApp contact, promising to work her local connections to secure us a vehicle the following day. Her kindness exemplified what we would discover throughout our stay: on an island this small and remote, community isn't just important—it's essential for survival.

The taxi ride west revealed Flores in all its untamed glory. The island's landscape features predominantly high cliffs, deep ravines, and volcanic craters that have evolved into serene lakes. Narrow roads wind through pastoral scenes where traditional Azorean stone walls divide verdant fields, and waterfalls appear around every bend like nature's own roadside attractions.

Our accommodation in Fajazinha proved to be a restored traditional Azorean home, complete with thick volcanic stone walls and commanding views over the Atlantic. Standing on the terrace that evening, watching the sun set over waters that stretched unbroken to North America, we felt the weight of history and geography converge. This was the last view of Europe that Guilherme would have seen before his journey to California—a reminder that for all our modern conveniences, some fundamental human experiences remain unchanged across generations.

Jul 23

Stranded in Paradise

Waking car-less on an island with limited public transport might seem like a travel disaster, but Fajazinha revealed its charms when explored at walking pace. This tiny village, one of the most remote communities on already remote Flores, offered an authentic glimpse into Azorean life largely unchanged by tourism.

Our morning wandering led us to the village's small shop and snack bar, where we picked up simple provisions while practicing our limited Portuguese with locals who seemed genuinely delighted by our presence. The pace of life here operates on what islanders call "tempo das ilhas"—island time—where rushing serves no purpose and conversation flows as naturally as the nearby streams.

The highlight of our carless day was our hike to Poço da Ribeira do Ferreiro (also known as Poço da Alagoinha), perhaps the most famous waterfall in the Azores. The trail, beginning near an ancient stone bridge, wound uphill through forests of endemic Azorean juniper and dense stands of ferns, creating a cathedral-like canopy overhead.

After about 20 minutes of steady climbing along a well-maintained stone path, we emerged at one of nature's most spectacular amphitheaters: a natural lagoon surrounded by a wall of cascading waterfalls plunging some 150 feet from the cliff above. The scene defied description—dozens of silver ribbons of water tumbled from the moss-covered volcanic rock, creating a symphony of sound that seemed to emerge from the earth itself.

We spent over 90 minutes at this magical spot, understanding immediately why some visitors call it the "Wall of Tears of the Azores". The lagoon, sometimes called Lagoa das Patas due to the wild ducks that use it as habitat during migration season, creates an otherworldly scene where dense vegetation and pristine waters combine to form an Azorean wonder. The afternoon light, filtering through the maritime mist, painted the falls in shades of gold and green that no photograph could truly capture.

On our return hike, Susana's promised phone call came through. Through her network of island connections, she had convinced the owner of the defunct rental company to provide us with a vehicle. Within an hour, Silvio—the island's primary taxi driver and owner of the only large passenger van—arrived to collect us for our car pickup, demonstrating once again the remarkable community spirit that defines life on Flores.

Jul 24

Island Exploration Amid Moody Skies

With wheels beneath us, we set out to explore Flores systematically, beginning with a light breakfast at a traditional bakery in Santa Cruz das Flores, the island's largest town with about 1,552 inhabitants. The central square, anchored by the Igreja Matriz da Nossa Senhora da Conceição, bustled with the quiet activity that defines morning life in small island communities.

Our planned excursion to Corvo fell victim to the Atlantic's unpredictable nature. Rough seas forced the postponement of boat services, a reminder that travel in remote island archipelagos operates entirely at the mercy of maritime conditions. This flexibility, we learned, isn't an inconvenience but rather an essential part of the Azorean experience.

The morning's disappointment transformed into an unexpected discovery as we drove into the island's mountainous interior. Flores' volcanic landscape includes multiple crater lakes hidden between mountains in the central area, each formed from the island's volcanic origins dating back over two million years. Unfortunately, the famous crater lakes—Lagoa Funda and Lagoa Comprida—remained shrouded in the thick Atlantic fog that frequently blankets the island's highest elevations.

Our afternoon destination was Fajã Grande, the westernmost settlement in Europe. The drive there showcased Flores' notoriously challenging road network, considered among the worst in the Azores during the late 20th century before significant improvements. These narrow, winding roads demand constant attention, but they reward patient drivers with stunning vistas at every turn.

Fajã Grande, with its black sand beaches and proximity to several magnificent waterfalls, represents the raw beauty that makes Flores special. We explored the rocky shoreline, where Atlantic waves crash against volcanic cliffs, creating spray that rises 50 feet into the air. Lunch at a local restaurant perched above the ocean provided fresh seafood while we watched weather systems roll in from the west—a preview of the storms that would batter North America within days.

The roads of Flores deserve special mention. Carved from volcanic rock and bordered by traditional stone walls, they create an infrastructure that harmonizes with rather than dominates the landscape. Driving here requires not just skill but patience, as around any corner, you might encounter a herd of cattle, a farmer on a tractor, or simply a section where the road narrows to barely accommodate a single vehicle.

Jul 25

The Adventure to Corvo Island

The day concluded with dinner at Restaurante Pôr-do-Sol in Fajazinha, the village's only restaurant. True to Azorean tradition, making a reservation meant the table remained ours for the entire evening, allowing for leisurely dining that transforms meals into social events. The local cuisine, featuring fresh seafood caught that morning and vegetables grown in volcanic soil, exemplified the connection between land, sea, and table that defines island gastronomy.

Canyoning Adventure Through Volcanic Gorges

Today's adventure deviated from conventional sightseeing as we joined a canyoning expedition with West Canyon Turismo Aventura. Canyoning—the sport of descending water-carved gorges using a combination of hiking, rappelling, jumping, and swimming—offered an intimate way to experience Flores' volcanic landscape from within.

Our guide, a recent university graduate from Lisbon who had returned to Flores to share his island's natural wonders, epitomized the younger generation's commitment to sustainable tourism. His professional expertise, combined with a genuine love for the island, created the perfect introduction to this thrilling activity.

Our group included a Swiss family—father and two children aged 10 and 12, with mom sidelined by a broken foot—demonstrating how canyoning accommodates various skill levels. All necessary equipment was provided: wetsuits, helmets, ropes, and harnesses designed for the specific challenges of Flores' volcanic gorges.

The route statistics tell the story: seven rappels, including an 18-meter (59-foot) waterfall descent, accessed via a 10-minute walk through dense forest. The experience lasted approximately three hours, culminating with a jump into a crystal-clear mountain lake at the canyon's bottom.

Descending through these water-carved volcanic canyons revealed Flores' geological history in dramatic detail. Ancient lava flows, now smoothed by millennia of flowing water, created a natural playground where emerald pools connected through narrow chutes and dramatic drops. The guide's expertise shone as he adapted techniques for each participant, ensuring safety while maximizing the thrill of discovery.

The final lake—our jumping destination—sparkled like a hidden jewel nestled between towering volcanic walls. After hours of technical descent, the simple act of plunging into pristine mountain water felt like a baptism in Flores' wildest essence. A van transported us back to their base, just a few kilometers from our starting point, completing a circular journey that revealed the island's interior beauty in the most adventurous way possible.

Jul 27

Southern Splendor and Coastal Drama

Our penultimate day took us south to explore Flores' most dramatic coastline. The southern peninsula showcases the island's geological violence in spectacular fashion—towering cliffs, isolated sea stacks, and the constant thunder of Atlantic waves against volcanic rock create a landscape of raw, elemental power.

The drive south revealed how Flores' compact size (55 square miles total) contains remarkable diversity. From sea level, the island rises to 3,087 feet at Morro Grande in its center, creating dramatic elevation changes within short distances. Each bend in the road revealed new perspectives: hidden valleys where traditional agriculture continues, windswept plateaus where only the hardiest vegetation survives, and coastal viewpoints that stretch the definition of breathtaking.

We visited the lighthouse marking the island's southernmost point, where the structure stands sentinel against oceanic forces that have shaped this landscape for millions of years. John's drone work here captured the stunning contrast between human engineering and natural drama—the small white lighthouse perched defiantly on black volcanic cliffs, with only open ocean stretching toward the horizon.

The southern coastline's small towns revealed another aspect of Flores life: communities that exist in harmony with rather than in spite of their challenging environment. Traditional architecture, built from local stone and designed to withstand Atlantic storms, blends seamlessly with the volcanic landscape. Gardens tucked into wind-protected hollows demonstrated the ingenuity required to cultivate beauty in this demanding climate.

Our evening return to Restaurante Pôr-do-Sol felt like coming home. The small size of Flores' visitor community meant we recognized faces from previous days' adventures—the Swiss family from canyoning, fellow boat passengers from the Corvo trip, and other travelers drawn to this remote outpost. These chance encounters reinforced the special camaraderie that develops among those willing to venture to places like Flores.

Jul 28

Departure from Paradise

Our final morning in Flores began with unexpected drama courtesy of Diogo Braga, a young comedian-turned-entrepreneur whose car rental business apparently operated on island time. After an extended delay and multiple phone calls, Susana once again saved the day, tracking down Diogo and arranging our car return with the efficiency that exemplified her commitment to visitor satisfaction.

Susana's parting gesture—joining us for coffee in the airport waiting area—perfectly captured the personal connections that transform travel experiences from mere tourism into lasting memories. Her apology for Diogo's unreliability reflected the pride that serious Flores residents take in their island's reputation for hospitality.

Flores Airport, unique in that it divides the parish of Santa Cruz das Flores in two, separates the coastal area from residential homes and businesses along Monte and Pau Pique. This small regional facility, with its single runway and modest terminal, serves as the lifeline connecting Flores to the wider world while maintaining the intimate scale that defines island life.

Our SATA Air Azores flight to São Miguel provided a final aerial perspective of Flores' dramatic beauty. The island's volcanic origin revealed itself clearly from above: crater lakes like dark mirrors, waterfalls etching silver lines down emerald cliffsides, and the endless blue Atlantic stretching toward North America. As we gained altitude, Flores diminished to a green speck in the vast ocean, but its impact on our understanding of place, family history, and natural beauty remained immeasurable.