Faial - Azores

May 30

Arrival and Porto Pim Exploration

Our ferry journey from Pico deposited us at Horta's bustling terminal, gateway to an island that has served Atlantic sailors for generations. The short climb up the hill to Porto Pim revealed our exceptional Airbnb accommodation—a remarkable multi-level retreat that would become our base for the week ahead.

Our lodging proved to be an architectural marvel: small but ingeniously vertical, with multiple levels of outdoor patios offering bird's-eye views of Porto Pim bay and Horta's world-famous marina. The panoramic perspectives from our elevated perches provided constant entertainment as we watched the daily ballet of sailing vessels arriving and departing, their crews adding fresh murals to the marina's legendary collection.

The afternoon brought exploration of Porto Pim on foot, venturing out to the abandoned buildings scattered across the peninsula. These weathered structures, remnants of Faial's industrial past, created haunting silhouettes against the Atlantic backdrop. The evening rewarded our wandering with a magnificent rainbow arcing over the marina—one of those magical moments that reminded us why the Azores are considered among the world's most beautiful archipelagos.

Our first taste of Faial's character came through its grocery stores, where we stocked up on supplies for the week ahead. The evening walk along the promenade revealed another layer of island culture: since it was Holy Week, we encountered several parades of local parishioners moving to and from church in colorful robes, their processions adding solemnity and beauty to the coastal evening.

Like many Portuguese villages, especially in the Azores, Faial's sidewalks proved to be artworks in themselves—intricate stone mosaics laid in endless patterns that spoke to centuries of Portuguese craftsmanship and aesthetic sensibility.

May 31

Horta Marina and Peter's Café Sport Legacy

The morning brought a deeper exploration of Horta, a major town in the Azores archipelago and undisputed capital of Atlantic sailing culture. Our wandering through the marina revealed one of the world's most unique outdoor art galleries: thousands of murals painted by sailors stopping for rest and supplies in Horta.

This tradition represents more than mere decoration—sailors paint unique murals to receive good luck for safe passage across the Atlantic, creating a living testament to maritime superstition and artistic expression. Each painting tells a story of dreams, adventures, and the eternal human desire to leave a mark upon the world.

The centerpiece of our Horta exploration was Peter's Café Sport, where we stopped for their famous gin and tonic. Founded in 1918 by Henrique Azevedo, this establishment has evolved far beyond a simple café to become a legendary institution in the sailing world. Over the past 100 years, Peter Café Sport has become a place of support for yachtsmen who cross the Atlantic, serving as a bar, restaurant, information point, post office, currency exchange, meteorological center, and sometimes a house of mercy.

The café earned its maritime fame through "Peter" (José Azevedo), who inherited the business and became legendary for his assistance to sailors from all nations. During World War II, the café became a crucial point of reference for all who passed through Horta, providing help regardless of the matter—technical or humanitarian—for all nationalities, creeds, and races. Today, the establishment houses one of the world's most beautiful collections of scrimshaw (the ancient art of engraving and carving on sperm whale teeth and bones), preserving the testimony and memory of the great whaling adventure that dominated Faial and Pico islands.

The crowd at Peter's embodied everything that makes this place special: mostly sailors and locals eating, drinking, and socializing in an atmosphere that truly makes a trip. The establishment represents that unique category of places that transcend their physical boundaries to become cultural institutions—spaces where history, legend, and contemporary life intersect in magical ways.

Dinner took us to the courtyard of Oceanic Café, where we enjoyed excellent local cuisine in a setting that perfectly captured Faial's blend of maritime culture and modern island life. The evening's exploration of the Fort of Santa Cruz and the marina atmosphere revealed the incredible density of sailboats that make Horta their Atlantic crossroads, each vessel representing dreams of adventure and the eternal human fascination with blue-water sailing.

Jun 1

Capelinhos Volcano and Geological Drama

Our most dramatic day began with the drive across approximately one-third of the island to the Lighthouse of Ponta dos Capelinhos, site of one of the most significant volcanic events in modern European history. This lighthouse, constructed in 1894, became an unwitting witness to geological forces that would reshape both Faial's coastline and its human story.

The Capelinhos volcano eruption, which lasted from September 27, 1957, to October 24, 1958, represented a rare opportunity to observe volcanic island formation in real time. Whale spotters first noticed the ocean churning to the west, alerting lighthouse keepers to what would become thirteen months of explosive activity. The eruption began underwater, eventually boiling to the surface and spewing enough ash, sand, and lava to form a new land mass, adding 2.4 square kilometers to Faial's territory.

The human impact proved equally dramatic: the eruption destroyed 300 houses in the parishes of Capelo and Praia do Norte, forcing the evacuation of 2,000 people. Many families from the affected areas emigrated to the United States under the Azorean Refugee Act, signed in 1958 by then-Senator John F. Kennedy, which authorized the emigration of 1,500 people and contributed to the significant Azorean diaspora in New England.

Our visit to the award-winning Centro de Interpretação do Vulcão dos Capelinhos provided comprehensive education about volcanic processes, plate tectonics, and the birth of the Azores archipelago. The museum, nominated by the European Museum Forum for "Best Museum in Europe" in 2012, includes the lighthouse itself, which ceased operations when volcanic ash reached its vital components in late 1957.

Climbing the lighthouse spiral staircase revealed panoramic views of the moonscape-like volcanic terrain—a stark contrast to Faial's typical lush greenery. The landscape, marked by aridity and black volcanic ash, creates an otherworldly atmosphere that summons visitors to contemplate the titanic forces involved in the eruption and the continuing geological processes that shape our planet.

The return journey to Horta included lunch at a remote local restaurant, where we experienced the authentic flavors of Faial's rural cuisine. Our afternoon, spent lounging on our elevated patio, provided time to process the morning's geological education while enjoying panoramic views of the channel between Faial and Pico.

The day concluded with an exploration of Monte da Guia. We hiked the trail past a remote church to the end of the spit of land, experiencing firsthand the volcanic forces that created these dramatic coastal formations.

Jun 2

Island Circumnavigation and Coastal Discovery

This day brought our complete circumnavigation of Faial, beginning with the drive to Praia da Fajã, a charming beach area that exemplifies Faial's gentler coastal attractions. The small collection of restaurants and hotels around this black sand beach provided our first stop in what would become a day-long exploration of the island's diverse landscapes and communities.

Driving the entire circumference of Faial revealed the island's remarkable geological and cultural diversity. Along the way, we stopped frequently to admire coastal views, explore small villages, and appreciate how volcanic forces and human adaptation have shaped this mid-Atlantic landscape over the centuries.

Each village told its own story of resilience and community, from fishing hamlets tucked into protected coves to agricultural settlements that have learned to thrive in volcanic soil. The island's circular road provided constantly changing perspectives on the central caldera, coastal formations, and neighboring islands that define Faial's position in the Central Azores group.

Jun 3

Local Culture and Community Life

The afternoon brought one of our most memorable cultural experiences at a local café near our accommodation. What began as a simple refreshment stop evolved into an impromptu celebration of Azorean community life, as patrons spilled out onto the sidewalk while a DJ played music from a boombox for the gathered crowd.

Food and beers flowed freely and inexpensively, creating an atmosphere of pure Azorean perfection. Everyone seemed to treat each other as old friends, welcoming us into a community celebration that embodied the legendary hospitality for which the Azores are famous. These spontaneous gatherings represent the essence of island life, where formal entertainment gives way to organic social connection and simple pleasures create lasting memories.

The evening concluded with a walk near the Portão Fortificado de Porto Pim, the fortified gate that once protected this strategic harbor. As we enjoyed the early summer evening in what felt like paradise, we reflected on how Faial's combination of natural beauty, maritime heritage, and community warmth creates an irresistible attraction for visitors from around the world.

Jun 4

Maritime Heritage and Sailing Legends

Lunch brought us to Restaurante Genuíno in Porto Pim, owned by local sailing celebrity Genuíno Madruga. This remarkable establishment serves as both restaurant and living museum, celebrating the achievements of the first Portuguese sailor to circumnavigate the globe solo—not once, but twice.

Genuíno's maritime achievements are legendary in Portugal and beyond. Setting sail in October 2000 aboard his vessel "Hemingway" (named for Ernest Hemingway's "The Old Man and the Sea"), he became the first Portuguese to complete a solo circumnavigation, returning to Horta in May 2002. His second circumnavigation, completed between 2007 and 2009, sailing east to west this time, cemented his status as one of Portugal's greatest maritime adventurers.

The restaurant itself reflects Genuíno's personality and achievements, decorated with maritime memorabilia from his global adventures. Our conversation with this charming sailor-restaurateur revealed his deep appreciation for the fabulous place he calls home, and his agreement that few locations on earth can match the natural beauty and cultural richness of the Azores.

The experience perfectly encapsulated Faial's unique position in global sailing culture—an island where maritime legends are born and where the spirit of adventure continues to thrive in the modern era.

Jun 5

Earthquake Legacy and Natural Forces

Our exploration of Faial's geological drama continued with a visit to the destruction left behind by the devastating 1998 earthquake at Farol da Ponta da Ribeirinha. This magnitude 6.1 earthquake, which struck at 05:19 local time on July 9, 1998, caused significant damage on Faial Island, killing at least 10 people, injuring 100, and leaving 2,500 people homeless.

The lighthouse at Ponta da Ribeirinha serves as the most emblematic memorial of this massive earthquake. The structure, severely damaged by seismic forces, provides stark testimony to the ongoing geological activity that characterizes life in the Azores. The earthquake destroyed 70 percent of Faial's housing stock, with the parishes of Ribeirinha and neighboring Pedro Miguel bearing the brunt of the destruction.

Standing among the ruins in this beautiful coastal location, we flew the drone to capture amazing video footage of both the earthquake damage and the spectacular natural setting. The contrast between natural beauty and seismic destruction provided powerful reminders of the geological forces that continue to shape these Atlantic islands.

Our visit to Igreja de São Mateus revealed the remarkable resilience of Azorean architecture and community spirit. That these buildings still stand despite the damage they sustained speaks to both the quality of traditional construction and the determination of island communities to preserve their cultural heritage despite natural disasters.

We attempted to visit the caldera, but thick fog created pea-soup conditions that prevented any meaningful views. Rather than persist in futile exploration, we decided to return to Horta to enjoy our last afternoon in this remarkable town.

Late lunch at Restaurante Atlético provided excellent local fish on an outdoor patio, perfectly positioned for people-watching and reflection on our week of discovery. One final drink at Peter's Café Sport provided the perfect conclusion to our evening, bringing our Faial adventure full circle in the establishment that symbolizes everything magical about this island's relationship with the sea.

Jun 6

Farewell to the Blue Island

Our early departure from the diminutive Horta airport on Azores Airlines provided a fitting conclusion to our week on Faial. The airline staff proved to be the friendliest we had encountered anywhere, embodying the warmth and hospitality that characterizes Azorean culture.

The inter-island flights in the Azores operate like a bus service—the cheapest and most time-effective way to move between islands in this scattered archipelago. As our aircraft lifted off from Faial, we gained aerial perspectives on the volcanic landscapes, protected harbors, and earthquake-scarred coastlines that had defined our week of exploration.

Faial had revealed itself as one of our favorite Azorean islands, combining world-class maritime heritage with ongoing geological drama, legendary hospitality with stunning natural beauty, and contemporary island life with centuries of Atlantic sailing tradition.