Karlovy Vary - Czechia

Itinerary

Nov 20

Thermal Springs and Grand Hotel Luxury

Our Czech adventure began with a scenic FlixBus journey through Western Bohemia, where €24 secured first-row seats on a double-decker bus that provided panoramic views of the Bohemian countryside. This region, historically part of the Austrian Empire, retains the cultural sophistication that attracted European nobility for centuries.

Check-in at the legendary Grandhotel Pupp transported us immediately into imperial elegance. This magnificent establishment, dating to 1701, represents over three centuries of European hospitality excellence. The hotel gained international fame as the setting for the 2006 James Bond film "Casino Royale," where its opulent interiors stood in for Montenegro's Hotel Splendid. During the Habsburg era, the hotel hosted royalty, including Tsar Peter the Great and Emperor Franz Joseph I, establishing Karlovy Vary's reputation as Europe's premier spa destination.

Our exploration began on Stará Louka, Karlovy Vary's most prestigious shopping street. This elegant boulevard, lined with Art Nouveau and Baroque buildings, reflects the town's evolution from a medieval trading post to an international spa resort. The street's high-end boutiques and cafes serve the same international clientele that has visited Karlovy Vary for generations, from 19th-century Austrian aristocrats to contemporary wellness tourists.

Dinner at U Švejka provided authentic Czech hospitality in a cozy restaurant that perfectly embodies traditional Bohemian culture. Named after the famous Czech literary character from Jaroslav Hašek's novel "The Good Soldier Švejk," the restaurant offers hearty Czech meals and local beers that represent the region's rich culinary heritage beyond its spa reputation.

Our thermal spring exploration began at Spring №1, housed in a striking modern glass structure that contrasts beautifully with the town's historic architecture. This powerful geyser produces 2,000 liters of mineral water per minute, shooting columns up to 12 meters high. The spring, discovered in the 14th century according to legend when Emperor Charles IV's hunting dog fell into the hot water, remains one of only two sources used for therapeutic bathing. The varying temperatures—72°C, 50°C, and 30°C—allow visitors to experience the water's intensity at comfortable levels.

The Market Colonnade showcased the architectural splendor that defines Karlovy Vary's spa culture. Built between 1882-1883 in Swiss style, this richly carved wooden structure houses three therapeutic springs: the Charles IV Spring (named for the Holy Roman Emperor who founded the town in 1370), the Lower Castle Spring, and the Market Spring. These springs specifically treat bone and joint conditions, reflecting medieval knowledge about mineral water's therapeutic properties that modern science has largely confirmed.

Our day concluded at the magnificent Mill Colonnade, Karlovy Vary's largest and most impressive thermal facility. The colonnade's gable features 12 sandstone statues representing the months of the year, created by leading Bohemian sculptors in the late 19th century. Inside, five different springs offer specialized treatments: Spring 6 for metabolism, hair, and nails; Springs 7 and 9 for metabolism and diabetes; Spring 8 for digestive health; and Spring 10 for metabolic disorders. This systematic approach to thermal therapy reflects centuries of empirical knowledge about mineral water's medical benefits.

A late-night visit to Goethe's Beer House provided the perfect end to our thermal exploration. Named after Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, who visited Karlovy Vary thirteen times and wrote extensively about the healing waters, this establishment continues the literary tradition that made the spa town a gathering place for European intellectuals throughout the 18th and 19th centuries

Nov 21

Panoramic Views and Therapeutic Luxury

Our second day began with a journey to Diana Observation Tower via the historic funicular railway, built in 1909 to access what was originally a hilltop hunting lodge. The observation tower, completed in 1914 just before World War I, transformed European society and represents the final flowering of Habsburg-era engineering projects. The 150-step climb to the top rewards visitors with panoramic views over the Slavkovský Forest (Slavkov Forest), where numerous hiking trails connect to the broader Bohemian landscape that inspired countless artists and writers. We decided to hike down from the hilltop and were treated to various monuments along the pathway.

Lunch at Pizzeria Asti demonstrated Karlovy Vary's international character. Excellent Italian cuisine reflects the cosmopolitan atmosphere that has defined this spa town since the 18th century. The restaurant's friendly staff and authentic preparations show how the town has embraced global culinary traditions while maintaining its Czech cultural identity.

The afternoon's highlight was the exclusive spa experience at Grandhotel Pupp, available only to hotel guests. This private thermal facility includes a large swimming pool, whirlpools, a salt room, and traditional saunas that provide the complete Central European spa experience. The spa treatments follow therapeutic traditions developed over centuries, combining thermal mineral waters with modern wellness techniques that European royalty has enjoyed for generations.

Dinner at Velkopopovická showcased authentic Czech cuisine in a family-run establishment that represents traditional Bohemian hospitality. The restaurant's classic Czech dishes, paired with quality local beers, provide insight into regional food culture that exists beyond the international spa scene. Czech brewing traditions, dating to medieval monasteries, created the pilsner style that revolutionized global beer culture in the 19th century.

Our evening concluded in style at Becher's Bar, the classic English club bar within Grandhotel Pupp that gained international fame during the Casino Royale filming. The bar's Vesper cocktail pays direct homage to the James Bond film, where Daniel Craig's poker scenes were shot in the hotel's magnificent interiors. This connection to contemporary cinema demonstrates how Karlovy Vary continues attracting international attention while maintaining its historical elegance.

Nov 22

Farewell to Thermal Paradise

Our final morning in Karlovy Vary began with the elegant breakfast buffet at Grandhotel Pupp, featuring European, English, Scandinavian, and Asian stations that reflect the hotel's international clientele. This extensive offering demonstrates how the establishment has adapted to serve guests from around the world while maintaining the luxury standards that attracted European nobility for over three centuries.

The journey to the train station via Bolt (Czech Republic's answer to Uber) provided final glimpses of Karlovy Vary's thermal spring culture and architectural beauty. Our departure by train to Berlin connected two distinct Central European experiences—the intimate spa town elegance of Czech Bohemia and the dynamic cultural energy of Germany's capital.