Westfjords - Iceland
Discovering Europe's Last True Wilderness - Where Puffins Soar and Waterfalls Thunder
The Westfjords is a distinctively mountainous region in the far northwest of Iceland, jutting out into the Greenland Sea and Atlantic Ocean. Characterized by its flat-topped mountains plunging into fjords, the area leaves little room for larger settlements, except in a few select locations. This remote peninsula, often called the westernmost point if you skip the mid-Atlantic archipelago of Azores, remains Iceland's best-kept secret.
Over five unforgettable days, we discovered why there are still so few travelers who make the journey, drawn instead by the easy and accessible adventures on the ring road. Having all that grand nature mostly to yourself is a huge part of the appeal—there are only a few other places in Iceland where I've felt like the only human left on earth. From natural hot springs overlooking dramatic fjords to puffin colonies perched on Europe's largest bird cliffs, the Westfjords delivered an adventure that felt like stepping into an untouched wilderness where wildlife and raw nature reign supreme.
LOCATION | Southern Iceland - Seyðisfjörður To Reykjavík |
DATES | June 27 - July 1, 2021 |
PHOTOS | |
LODGING | Camper van |
ARRIVAL | Driving camper van from Reykjavík |
DEPARTURE | Driving camping van to Reykjavík |
Videos
"If you're looking for Iceland at its rawest, wildest and emptiest, the Westfjords is most definitely where you'll find it."
- Lonely Planet
Itinerary
Itinerary | ||
Jun 27 | Gateway to the Westfjords: Reykjavik to Hrutafjörður Our Westfjords adventure began with a leisurely morning exploring Reykjavik's charming waterfront, admiring the impressive collection of yachts and mega yachts that call the harbor home. After a satisfying lunch, we collected our trusty camper van – our home for the next five days – and set off northward on Iceland's famous Ring Road.
The drive to Hrutafjörður took us through Iceland's pastoral landscapes, gradually revealing the dramatic scenery that would define our journey. As we approached the eastern shore of the fjord, we discovered our first taste of Westfjords magic: a remote campsite blessed with natural hot tubs fed directly by geothermal springs.
That evening, we had the extraordinary privilege of sharing this geothermal paradise with just one other group. Soaking in the naturally heated pools while watching the midnight sun cast ethereal light across the fjord, we knew we'd made the right choice to venture beyond Iceland's well-traveled paths.
Lodging: Wild camping at natural hot spring campsite, Hrutafjörður Learn More: Visit Westfjords Official Guide |     |
Jun 28 | First Wildlife Encounters: Exploring the Western Shores Day two began with some backtracking – a common theme in the Westfjords where the intricate coastline requires patience and flexibility. We wound our way to the western side of the fjord, entering a landscape that felt increasingly remote and wild.
The sparse traffic became a blessing rather than a burden as we encountered our first spectacular wildlife sightings. A magnificent humpback whale surfaced just offshore, its massive form gracefully breaking the surface mere yards from the coastline. Moments later, a sea eagle soared overhead, scanning the waters below for fish – a reminder that we'd entered one of Europe's last true wilderness areas.
Our first glimpse of a grey seal marked another milestone, and the scenic but quiet driving day on mostly gravel roads felt like a meditation on solitude and natural beauty. The day's highlight came in the tiny village of Drangsnes, where public hot tubs perched on the rocky shoreline offered incredible views while we soaked away the day's travels.
The evening brought us to perhaps the most surreal accommodation of our entire Icelandic journey: a massive, virtually empty hotel featuring the largest swimming pool we'd ever encountered, naturally fed by hot springs. Being the sole occupants of this enormous pool in such a remote location felt like discovering a secret luxury resort at the edge of the world.
Wildlife Spotted: Humpback whale, sea eagle, grey seal Hot Springs: Drangsnes Geothermal Pools Learn More: Westfjords Wildlife Guide |       |
Jun 29 | Arctic Foxes and Brewing Traditions: Journey to Ísafjörður The 100-kilometer drive to Ísafjörður transformed into an hours-long journey as we navigated the intricate fjord system that defines this region. Each turn revealed new vistas, with the road winding in and out of dramatic inlets carved by ancient glaciers.
Midway through our journey, we stumbled upon the "Kaffi og Vöffler Cafe" – a quaint cabin seemingly in the middle of nowhere that served coffee and waffles. Despite seeing no one all morning, several other groups appeared as if by magic, confirming this hidden gem's status as a beloved local landmark.
Our afternoon brought an unexpected discovery: what appeared to be a massive beast washed ashore. Investigation revealed the likely remains of a humpback whale – a powerful reminder of the marine life that thrives in these Arctic waters, where local folklore speaks of numerous sea monsters lurking in the depths.
The day's cultural highlight came at the Arctic Fox Research Center in Súðavík, the home of Arctic fox research in Iceland with year round projects constantly collecting and furthering knowledge on this inspiring creature. Our teenage docents, who spoke flawless California English despite having never left Iceland, credited Nickelodeon for their language skills – a delightful reminder of how global connections reach even the world's most remote corners.
Ísafjörður welcomed us with a travel advisory to be off the roads by 4:00 PM due to incoming weather. We managed to reach town in time for lunch and a tasting at Dokkan Brugghús Brewery, the Westfjords first and only brewery, that brews high class craft beer. The campsite on the town's edge proved its worth that night as extreme winds rocked our camper van, demonstrating the raw power of Westfjords weather.
Cultural Highlights: Arctic Fox Research Center, Dokkan Brugghús Brewery Learn More: Arctic Fox Centre | Dokkan Brewery |        |
Jun 30 | Waterfalls and Ancient Shipwrecks: The Road to Dynjandi Day four challenged us with the most demanding driving conditions of our journey. Leaving Ísafjörður, we navigated long tunnels, gravel roads, and mountain passes under threatening skies that added drama to every vista. The remote nature of this region became starkly apparent – we were truly in Iceland's wildest corner.
Our destination, the spectacular Dynjandi waterfalls, proved absolutely worth every challenging kilometer. Dynjandi cascades some 99-100 meters, looking exactly like a beautiful bridal veil. On top, it is 30 meters wide and widens up to 60 meters at the bottom. The approach involves hiking past six smaller waterfalls, each magnificent in its own right, creating a crescendo of natural power that culminates in the thundering main cascade.
As afternoon approached Patreksfjörður, conditions improved dramatically. A roadside "hot pot" provided the perfect opportunity for a warming soak, and nearby we discovered the ancient ship that had run aground – a haunting reminder of the sea's power in these waters. Patreksfjörður itself offered cultural treasures, including the famous Skrimblasetur Sea Monster Museum, where the curator provided a personal tour filled with tales of the creatures said to inhabit these mystical waters. The evening at Breidavik hotel and campground was stormy enough to keep us securely inside our camper van, listening to the wind howl across the Atlantic.
Natural Highlights: Dynjandi waterfall complex, roadside hot springs Cultural Sites: Sea Monster Museum, ancient shipwreck Learn More: Dynjandi Waterfall Guide | Patreksfjörður Village |           |
Jul 1 | Puffin Paradise at Europe's Edge: Látrabjarg Cliffs and the Journey Home Our final day delivered the adventure's ultimate highlight: the world-famous Látrabjarg puffin cliffs. It is Europe's largest bird cliff, 14 km long and up to 440 m high. Located at Iceland's westernmost point and the closest point to Greenland, these dramatic cliffs host millions of seabirds during breeding season. Rising early, we broke camp and made the twenty-minute drive along dirt roads to reach the lighthouse and trailhead. Arriving before other visitors allowed us the extraordinary privilege of having these world-renowned cliffs entirely to ourselves. The experience felt sacred – hundreds of puffins going about their daily routines, completely unbothered by our presence. At Látrabjarg the puffins are so tame, as it were, and fearless of us humans. They barely budge, even though people get very close. They seem to be used to having people around and know that we are not going to harm them. We carefully crawled to the cliff edge (mindful of puffin burrows) and captured incredible close-up photographs. Watching these charming birds clumsily take off, dart through the air, and dive into the ocean searching for fish provided endless entertainment. Despite the morning's grey, windy, and cold conditions, witnessing these resilient Arctic seabirds in their natural habitat proved an unforgettable finale to our Westfjords adventure. After reluctantly tearing ourselves away from the puffin paradise, we began the long journey back to Reykjavik. But the Westfjords had one more magical surprise in store. Along the desolate gravel road, we discovered another "hot pot" – this one particularly special as it was positioned just feet above the churning sea. The natural hot spring had formed a pool large enough for a dozen people, but we didn't have to share this incredible experience. We scrambled over rocks to reach this perfectly positioned geothermal oasis, where we could soak in naturally heated waters while watching the Atlantic waves crash against the rocky coastline below. The contrast was sublime – immersed in warm, mineral-rich spring water while surrounded by the raw, untamed power of the Arctic Ocean. After hours of cold, windy cliff-walking, this spontaneous hot spring discovery felt like nature's own reward for our perseverance. Refreshed and warmed to our core, we scrambled back over the rocks to our camper van and continued our journey. The remaining drive back proved long and tiresome – gravel roads under repair, no guardrails, persistent wind and rain made for tedious driving conditions – but our spirits remained high, buoyed by the incredible natural spa experience that perfectly encapsulated the Westfjords' ability to surprise and delight at every turn. We arrived in Reykjavik that evening, camping next to Iceland's national stadium, our hearts full of memories from one of Europe's last true wilderness areas. The Westfjords had revealed their secrets: a land where nature still reigns supreme, where wildlife encounters happen on nature's terms, and where the brave few who venture beyond the Ring Road are rewarded with experiences that feel increasingly rare in our connected world. Wildlife Highlights: Hundreds of puffins, razorbills, petrels Natural Features: Europe's largest bird cliffs, westernmost point of Europe Learn More: Látrabjarg Official Information | Puffin Watching Guide |          |
Our Learnings
Remote Doesn't Mean Inaccessible: While the Westfjords feel like the edge of the world, a standard camper van handled the journey beautifully. The key is accepting that gravel roads and longer travel times are part of the authentic experience – not obstacles to overcome, but integral to the adventure.
Weather Windows Are Everything: We learned to be flexible with timing and always have backup plans. The travel advisory to be off roads by 4:00 PM in Ísafjörður saved us from dangerous conditions, while arriving early at Látrabjarg gave us the cliffs entirely to ourselves.
Hot Springs Are Everywhere: One of our biggest discoveries was that natural geothermal pools appear in the most unexpected places throughout the Westfjords. Unlike the crowded tourist hot springs elsewhere in Iceland, these felt like secret discoveries – always pack swimwear and be ready for spontaneous soaks.
Wildlife Encounters Happen on Nature's Terms: The Westfjords taught us patience and respect. Early morning visits to wildlife sites yielded the best experiences, while understanding seasonal patterns (like puffin breeding times) maximized our chances of memorable encounters.
Local Knowledge Is Invaluable: From teenage docents at the Arctic Fox Center to brewery owners in Ísafjörður, locals provided insights that no guidebook could match. Taking time to connect with residents enriched our understanding of this remarkable region.
Embrace the Solitude: What initially felt like isolation became our greatest gift. Having Europe's largest bird cliffs to ourselves, sharing hot springs with just one other family, and driving for hours without seeing another vehicle created a sense of privilege and connection to untouched wilderness that's increasingly rare in modern travel.
Planning Your Visit: Westfjords Way Official Route