Eastfjords - Iceland

Itinerary

June 21

Summer Solstice in Solitude

Our journey from the bustling energy of northern Iceland to the eastern fjords began with the dramatic drive from Egilsstadir over the mountain pass to Seydisfjordur, one of Iceland's most picturesque and artistically vibrant communities. The summer solstice provided the perfect backdrop for this transition, with the midnight sun creating ethereal lighting conditions that seemed designed to welcome us to this special corner of Iceland.

Seydisfjordur itself proved to be everything we'd heard—a perfectly preserved Nordic fishing village where colorful wooden houses climb the hillsides around a dramatic fjord, and where the famous rainbow-painted street leads to the distinctive blue church that has become one of Iceland's most Instagram-worthy locations. This artistic community of just 700 residents has successfully transformed itself from a declining fishing village into a thriving cultural destination while maintaining its authentic character.

After a brief exploration of the town's galleries, cafes, and the iconic rainbow street that celebrates Iceland's welcoming attitude toward the LGBTQ+ community, we continued our adventure in a completely unexpected direction. Rather than staying in the village proper, we drove 6 kilometers along a dirt road that followed the fjord's northern shore, venturing into increasingly remote territory with each passing mile.

Our destination was something truly special: a converted schoolhouse in the otherwise abandoned village of Saeberg, where we would experience a level of solitude rarely available in today's connected world. This former settlement, now reduced to ruins and our single accommodation, sits at the end of the road with commanding views across the entire fjord system.

The converted schoolhouse, our Airbnb accommodation, represented Iceland's creative approach to preserving and repurposing historical buildings. What was once the center of a small community's educational life had been thoughtfully transformed into comfortable modern lodging while retaining its original character and connection to the landscape.

The experience of having an entire fjord essentially to ourselves—sharing the landscape only with sheep and eider ducks—provided a profound contrast to the busy tourist sites we'd experienced earlier in our trip. The silence was nearly complete, broken only by the gentle lapping of water against the shore, the occasional call of seabirds, and the distant bleating of sheep moving across the hillsides.

We spent the glorious summer solstice day simply walking around this pristine environment, absorbing views that seemed to encompass every element that makes Iceland special: dramatic mountains rising directly from the sea, pristine waters reflecting changing cloud patterns, and the sense of being at the very edge of the inhabited world. The midnight sun created lighting conditions that constantly shifted and evolved, painting the landscape in colors that seemed almost too beautiful to be real.

This day reminded us that Iceland's greatest treasure isn't necessarily its famous tourist attractions, but rather its ability to provide experiences of genuine wilderness solitude that have become increasingly rare in our modern world. Having an entire fjord system to ourselves, surrounded by untouched natural beauty, created memories that no crowded tourist site could possibly match.

Jun 22

Exploring the Ruins of Time

Our second day in this magnificent solitude began with a beautiful morning that encouraged deeper exploration of our abandoned village and the surrounding landscape. The converted schoolhouse sat among the ruins of Eyrar, a former fishing community that once thrived in this protected fjord location before economic and social changes led to its gradual abandonment.

Walking among these ruins provided a poignant lesson in Iceland's social history—how remote communities that once sustained families for generations gradually lost their viability as Iceland modernized and centralized. The remaining foundations, partial walls, and scattered artifacts told stories of lives lived in this challenging but beautiful environment, where residents survived through fishing, sheep farming, and the kind of self-sufficiency that modern life has largely eliminated.

From our base, we drove around to the fjord's southern shore to explore different perspectives on this remarkable landscape. The drive revealed multiple waterfalls cascading down steep valley walls—each one worthy of tourist attention if it were located in a more accessible area, but here existing in splendid isolation for the benefit of sheep, birds, and the occasional adventurous visitor.

Our major excursion of the day took us on a wonderful hike to Selbrekkufoss Falls, a spectacular waterfall that demonstrated how Iceland's hidden corners often contain natural wonders equal to its famous attractions. The hike through pristine highland terrain, without encountering another human soul all morning, reinforced the extraordinary privilege of experiencing Iceland's wilderness in such solitude.

Selbrekkufoss itself proved to be a multi-tiered waterfall that tumbled down a series of rocky steps, creating pools and cascades that would attract photographers and nature lovers from around the world if located in a more accessible area. The sound of falling water, amplified by the fjord's acoustic properties, created a natural symphony that accompanied our exploration and photography.

Early afternoon brought threatening clouds that reminded us of Iceland's unpredictable weather patterns and the wisdom of monitoring conditions closely when exploring remote areas. We decided to make our way back to Saeberg before conditions deteriorated, a decision that proved wise as the weather cleared up in the late afternoon, allowing us to enjoy another peaceful evening alone on the fjord.

The experience of having such spectacular natural beauty entirely to ourselves continued to feel almost surreal. Watching the late afternoon light play across the water and mountains, knowing that we were the only people for kilometers in any direction, created a sense of connection to the landscape that mass tourism destinations simply cannot provide.

This second night in our fjord solitude reinforced our appreciation for Iceland's ability to offer experiences ranging from the social and cultural to the profoundly solitary, often within the same small geographic area.

Jun 23

The Long Road South

Our departure from the ethereal solitude of Saeberg marked the beginning of a long driving day that would take us through Iceland's spectacular eastfjords and eventually to the famous south coast. The bright, beautiful morning provided perfect conditions for the fjord drive and the snow-covered mountain pass that would reconnect us to Route 1, Iceland's Ring Road.

The drive from our remote fjord location back to the main highway showcased the dramatic landscape changes that characterize eastern Iceland—from intimate fjord environments to highland passes where snow persists well into summer, creating alpine conditions that contrast sharply with the coastal areas just kilometers away.

Just before reaching the town of Breidalsvik, we encountered one of those delightful discoveries that make independent travel so rewarding: Petra's Stone Garden, a quirky geological museum that represents one woman's lifelong passion for collecting local rocks, minerals, and fossils. Petra Sveinsdottir spent decades gathering specimens from the surrounding area, creating a display that now attracts visitors from around the world.

This strange little museum, officially known as Steinasafn Petru, demonstrates how individual passion and dedication can create attractions that rival major tourist destinations for their ability to educate and inspire. Petra's collection includes thousands of specimens arranged in outdoor gardens and indoor displays, showcasing the incredible geological diversity of eastern Iceland in ways that major museums might envy.

The story behind the collection—of a local woman who became an internationally recognized expert on Icelandic geology through pure enthusiasm and decades of fieldwork—embodied the kind of grassroots cultural institution that gives small communities their distinctive character. Walking through her carefully arranged displays felt like receiving a personal guided tour through Iceland's geological history.

After this unexpected cultural interlude, we continued the scenic drive westward, following Route 1 as it traced the southern coastline through landscapes that gradually transitioned from the intimate scale of the eastfjords to the vast, dramatic vistas that characterize southern Iceland. The drive provided constant reminders of Iceland's position at the intersection of geological forces, with volcanic peaks, glacial valleys, and coastal plains creating a landscape textbook written in stone and ice.

Our destination was a cabin near Höfn, the charming fishing town that serves as the gateway to Iceland's glacier country. The small cabin, set in a pasture with Icelandic horses (definitely not ponies—a distinction Icelanders take seriously!) and spectacular views of mountain glaciers, provided the perfect base for exploring one of Iceland's most dramatic regions.

The cabin's owner proved to be the first and only Icelandic person we encountered during our entire month-long trip who did not speak English—a testament to how thoroughly international Iceland's tourism industry has become and how exceptional this language barrier proved to be.

Because Iceland's summer provides nearly constant daylight, we decided to take advantage of the extended evening hours for an exploration adventure. We had discovered on our map the location of an abandoned Viking village and decided to investigate this historical site despite the late hour.

The drive to the abandoned settlement took us away from the main highway onto smaller roads that led through increasingly wild terrain. Our first surprise came when we encountered a herd of wild reindeer moving across the grassy tundra—a magical encounter with Iceland's only native land mammal (actually introduced by humans but now considered naturalized).

Pulling over to watch these magnificent animals pass provided one of those spontaneous wildlife experiences that no amount of planning can guarantee. The reindeer, unhurried and majestic, moved across the landscape with the kind of natural grace that reminded us we were visitors in their domain.

When we finally located the abandoned Viking village, we found ourselves completely alone at this historical site, set dramatically below snow-capped mountains in a landscape that seemed virtually unchanged since the original settlement. The ruins, while not extensive, provided tangible connections to Iceland's settlement period and the challenges faced by early inhabitants in this harsh but beautiful environment.

Standing among these ancient foundations as the midnight sun painted the surrounding peaks in golden light created a perfect end to a day that had taken us from geological wonders to historical sites, from intimate cultural experiences to encounters with Iceland's wildest landscapes.

Jun 24

Glacial Grandeur and Volcanic Drama

We rose early with anticipation for one of Iceland's most spectacular natural attractions: Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon, often called the crown jewel of Iceland's natural wonders. Our early arrival strategy proved excellent—we found the famous lagoon nearly empty of other visitors, allowing us to experience its otherworldly beauty in the kind of solitude that has become increasingly rare at Iceland's most popular destinations.

Jokulsarlon, meaning "glacial river lagoon," represents nature's artistry on a grand scale. This stunning lake, filled with icebergs that break away from Breidamerkurjokull glacier, provides front-row seats to the powerful forces of climate change while creating one of the most beautiful landscapes on Earth. The lagoon, which began forming in the 1930s as the glacier retreated, has quadrupled in size since the 1970s and now ranks as Iceland's deepest lake.

The sight of massive icebergs, some over 1,000 years old, floating serenely in the lagoon's teal-colored water created an almost surreal experience. These ancient ice sculptures, carved by time and natural forces, drift slowly toward the lagoon's outlet where they tumble down a short river and wash out into the North Atlantic, only to be pushed back onto the black sand beach by ocean waves.

The adjacent Diamond Beach provided the perfect complement to the lagoon experience. Here, ice sculptures several meters high and wide rest on volcanic black sand, creating a landscape that seems more appropriate to alien planets than earthly destinations. The contrast between the crystal-clear ice and the jet-black sand, with the powerful North Atlantic waves constantly reshaping the display, created photographic opportunities that challenged our ability to capture the scene's full drama and beauty.

Continuing west on Route 1, we stopped in the village of Hofskirkja to visit its charming turf-roofed church, one of the few remaining examples of traditional Icelandic architecture that once characterized rural communities throughout the country. These grass-covered buildings, perfectly adapted to Iceland's harsh climate, represent centuries of architectural evolution that created structures capable of withstanding fierce winds and extreme weather while providing comfortable interior environments.

Our next stop brought us to Kirkjubaejarklaustur, a small village surrounded by some of Iceland's most dramatic geological features. Here we explored magnificent waterfalls and canyons where crystal-clear water has carved intricate patterns through moss-covered rock formations unlike anything we'd seen elsewhere in our travels. The landscape around this historic settlement, once home to a medieval convent, demonstrates how volcanic activity and water erosion combine to create sculptures that rival any human artwork for their beauty and complexity.

Late afternoon took us across the Katla volcano floodplain, one of Iceland's most powerful reminders of the geological forces that continue to shape the landscape. Highway bridges crossed mile after mile of volcanic ash and rocky streambeds, all dominated by the imposing presence of Katla volcano on the horizon. This massive volcanic system, currently dormant but closely monitored by scientists, has the potential to create flooding events that could dramatically alter southern Iceland's geography.

Driving across this vast wasteland of volcanic debris provided sobering perspectives on nature's power to reshape landscapes almost instantaneously. The engineering required to build and maintain transportation infrastructure across such an active geological zone demonstrated Iceland's remarkable adaptation to living with constant volcanic threats.

We walked on a nearby black sand beach, feeling the unique texture of sand created by centuries of volcanic rock erosion and ocean grinding. The beach's otherworldly appearance, with its stark beauty and dramatic contrast between black sand and white ocean foam, reinforced our understanding of Iceland as a landscape where familiar natural elements combine in unfamiliar ways.

Our day concluded at the magnificent Skogafoss waterfall, where we secured cabin accommodation nearby. Skogafoss, with its 60-meter drop and thunderous power, represents one of Iceland's most accessible and impressive waterfalls, often producing spectacular rainbows in its mist that have made it a favorite among photographers and nature lovers worldwide.

Jun 25

Behind the Falls and Journey's End

Our final day in this spectacular region began with an early morning visit to Seljalandsfoss, one of Iceland's most famous and unique waterfalls. Arriving early in the morning, before tourist buses began arriving, allowed us to experience this natural wonder in the kind of peaceful conditions that bring out its true magical qualities.

Seljalandsfoss offers something truly special among the world's waterfalls: the opportunity to walk completely behind the cascading water into a natural grotto that provides 360-degree perspectives on this 60-meter cascade. The pathway behind the falls, while requiring waterproof gear and careful footing, opens up photographic and experiential opportunities that exist in very few places on Earth.

Standing behind the thundering curtain of water, looking out through the cascade toward the pastoral landscape beyond, created one of those transformative travel moments that redefine your understanding of what natural experiences can offer. The play of light through the falling water, the thunderous sound amplified by the rocky chamber, and the cooling mist that surrounded us combined to create a multi-sensory experience that no photograph or description can fully capture.

From Seljalandsfoss, we also explored nearby Gljufrabui waterfall, the "hidden waterfall" that requires walking through a narrow canyon to reach its secluded grotto. This lesser-known gem, partially concealed behind rock formations, provides a more intimate waterfall experience that rewards visitors willing to venture beyond the main tourist path.

After thoroughly exploring these aquatic wonders, we began our drive back toward Reykjavik, making a delicious detour to the town of Selfoss to try the famous Pylsuvagninn, a takeaway shop renowned throughout Iceland for its exceptional hot dogs and fish and chips. This local institution provided the perfect casual lunch and demonstrated how even simple foods can achieve legendary status when prepared with passion and quality ingredients.

Arriving in Reykjavik after lunch, we immediately immersed ourselves in the capital city's cultural attractions, beginning with the Whale Museum, which provided fascinating insights into the marine mammals we'd encountered during our whale watching adventures in Husavik. The museum's life-sized models, interactive displays, and comprehensive information about North Atlantic whale species helped us better understand and appreciate our wildlife encounters from earlier in the trip.

Our next cultural experience was the Flyover Iceland attraction, an immersive flight simulation that provides aerial perspectives on Iceland's most spectacular landscapes. This innovative experience uses cutting-edge technology to create the sensation of flying over glaciers, volcanoes, and fjords, offering viewpoints impossible to achieve through ground-based travel. The combination of visual effects, wind, mist, and movement created surprisingly convincing flight sensations that enhanced rather than diminished our appreciation for the landscapes we'd experienced on foot.

We checked into our accommodation on Frakkastigur street, just one block from Hallgrimskirkja, the iconic church that dominates Reykjavik's skyline. This central location provided easy walking access to the capital's compact downtown area while offering spectacular views of the architectural landmark that has become synonymous with Reykjavik itself.

Jun 26

Reykjavik Recovery

After ten intensive days of road travel and constant exploration, we embraced the luxury of sleeping in and adopting a completely relaxed pace for our final day of this segment. The neighborhood bakery provided fresh pastries and excellent coffee, while a local laundromat took care of the accumulated laundry from our extensive travels.

The afternoon was spent wandering Reykjavik's compact but vibrant downtown area, visiting shops, cafes, and galleries while absorbing the capital's unique blend of Nordic sophistication and creative energy. We also enjoyed watching European Championship football matches in local establishments, experiencing how Icelanders engage with international sports and the community atmosphere that develops around shared viewing experiences.

This slower-paced day provided necessary recovery time while allowing us to appreciate Reykjavik's urban charms and prepare for the next phase of our month-long Icelandic adventure.