Reykjavik - Iceland

Itinerary

June 12 & 13

Arrival at the Edge of the World

Our Icelandic adventure began with the long journey from Sacramento to Seattle, where we boarded Icelandair's flagship aircraft "Hekla Aurora," a Boeing 757 named after one of Iceland's most famous volcanoes. The overnight flight across the North Atlantic provided our first lesson in Icelandic efficiency—comfortable seating, excellent service, and the promise of witnessing one of Earth's most geologically dramatic destinations upon arrival.

Landing at Keflavík International Airport in the early morning darkness reminded us that we were visiting during a unique period in Iceland's history. The country was just beginning to welcome international visitors again after pandemic restrictions, requiring proof of vaccination and COVID-19 testing upon arrival. The additional protocols felt like a small price to pay for the privilege of experiencing Iceland during this quieter period of tourism.

Our first cultural lesson came at the duty-free shop, where we purchased beer and learned about Iceland's government-controlled alcohol system. The ÁTVR (State Alcohol and Tobacco Company) maintains strict control over alcohol sales, limiting availability to specific times and locations—a reminder that Iceland's social policies often differ dramatically from other Western nations.

The drive south around the Reykjanes Peninsula provided our first encounter with Iceland's otherworldly landscape. This UNESCO Global Geopark represents one of the few places on Earth where the Mid-Atlantic Ridge emerges above sea level, creating a geological textbook written in black volcanic rock and steaming geothermal fields.

Our most profound moment came at the Bridge Between Continents, where we walked across a symbolic bridge spanning the actual fissure between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. Standing in this rift—approximately 5 meters wide and 10 meters deep, filled with basaltic gravel—we witnessed the planet's creative forces in action. The continental plates drift apart at roughly 2 centimeters per year, making Iceland one of the most geologically active places on Earth.

The drive through the Reykjanes Peninsula's barren, cold volcanic landscape toward the fishing village of Grindavík felt like traveling across an alien planet. Little did we know that this peaceful coastal community would later face existential threats from volcanic activity, including the dramatic Fagradalsfjall eruption that was actively flowing during our visit. The sight of glowing red lava pouring over distant ridges provided a spectacular reminder of Iceland's volcanic power—beautiful and terrifying in equal measure.

Our arrival in Reykjavík, the world's northernmost capital, marked the transition from geological wonder to cultural immersion. Finding our centrally-located apartment provided the perfect base for exploring this compact city where over one-third of Iceland's population calls home.

After settling in, we walked to Reykjavík's Old Harbor, where colorful fishing boats and whale-watching vessels reminded us of Iceland's deep connection to the sea. The evening's culinary highlight came at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, the famous hot dog stand that has served Reykjavík since 1937. These aren't ordinary hot dogs—made from a mixture of lamb, pork, and beef, and topped with crispy onions, fresh onions, ketchup, sweet mustard, and remoulade, they represent Iceland's ability to elevate simple ingredients into something extraordinary.

The day concluded at a local pub sampling Gull beer, one of Iceland's most popular lagers, while processing our first day's encounters with volcanic landscapes, continental drift, and the warm hospitality that thrives in this harsh but beautiful environment.

Jun 14

Thermal Rivers and Viking Feasts

Our second day in Iceland began with an ambitious plan: hiking to the Reykjadalur Thermal River, one of the few places on Earth where you can bathe in a naturally heated river surrounded by steaming geothermal features. The nearly one-hour drive to the town of Hveragerði took us through landscapes that shifted from urban to agricultural to purely volcanic with remarkable speed.

The trailhead, located a few miles beyond Hveragerði, marked the beginning of a two-hour hike that would challenge our fitness while rewarding us with experiences impossible to find elsewhere. The trail climbed approximately 300 meters through volcanic terrain unlike anything we'd encountered—rolling hills covered in vibrant green moss and grass, punctuated by rocks colored in brilliant yellows and oranges from sulfur deposits and other volcanic minerals.

The hike itself became a geology lesson delivered at walking pace. Fumaroles released steam along the trail, hot springs bubbled from seemingly random locations, and the air carried the distinctive sulfur scent that characterizes active geothermal areas. The landscape felt primordial, as if we were witnessing Earth in its earliest creative phases.

Reaching the thermal river rewarded our efforts with one of travel's most unique experiences. This "river" is actually a substantial stream where natural hot springs and fumaroles feed into glacial runoff, creating a waterway where temperatures vary dramatically along its course. Finding a warm, wide section suitable for soaking required some exploration, but the reward—floating in naturally heated water while surrounded by steam vents and volcanic terrain—provided the kind of peaceful, otherworldly experience that makes Iceland legendary among adventurous travelers.

The soak itself became meditative, allowing us to absorb both the physical warmth and the profound sense of connection to Iceland's geological forces. Few experiences compare to relaxing in hot spring waters while watching steam rise from the surrounding landscape, knowing that the heat comes directly from the Earth's core through volcanic activity beneath your feet.

Evening brought us to Ingólfskáli Viking Restaurant, located in the countryside and designed to recreate the atmosphere of ancient Iceland. This wasn't merely dinner—it was cultural theater of the highest order. The building itself, topped with traditional turf roofing and surrounded by fire pits, transported visitors back to the settlement era when Vikings first established permanent communities in Iceland.

The interior design—heavy wooden beams, iron fixtures, and authentic furs—created an atmosphere that felt genuinely medieval rather than touristy. As one of the restaurant's first customers of the season, we received personal attention from the owner, who shared stories about Icelandic traditions, survival techniques, and the cultural significance of each dish we would experience.

Our tasting began with traditional preserved foods that sustained Icelanders through harsh winters: harðfiskur (dried cod that becomes chewy protein-rich sustenance), hákarl (fermented shark that challenges every notion of pleasant flavors), and brennivín (caraway-flavored schnapps nicknamed "Black Death"). Drinking brennivín from genuine rams' horns completed the authentic Viking experience, connecting us directly to rituals that have sustained Icelandic culture for over a millennium.

The main courses—expertly prepared lamb and cod that showcased Iceland's finest proteins—demonstrated how traditional ingredients could be elevated through skilled preparation and contemporary techniques. This meal represented more than fine dining; it was cultural education delivered through cuisine, helping us understand how Icelanders developed their distinctive food culture through centuries of isolation and resourcefulness.

Jun 15

Northern Perspectives

Our day began with an early morning flight aboard Icelandair's Dash 8-400 turboprop from Reykjavík Airport (RKV) to Akureyri, Iceland's second-largest city and the unofficial capital of the north. The domestic flight provided spectacular aerial views of Iceland's interior—vast ice fields, dramatic mountain ranges, and volcanic landscapes that stretched to every horizon.

The flight itself represented Iceland's commitment to connecting its scattered communities across challenging terrain. Flying over the interior revealed landscapes too remote and rugged for practical road access, where glaciers, active volcanic zones, and uninhabited highlands create some of Europe's last true wilderness areas.

Arriving in Akureyri offered a different perspective on Icelandic life—a smaller, more intimate community surrounded by even more dramatic natural features, where the relationship between human settlements and the natural environment becomes even more apparent. The city's location on Eyjafjörður, Iceland's longest fjord, provides both stunning scenery and protection from North Atlantic storms.

This northern perspective completed our introduction to Iceland's geographical and cultural diversity, demonstrating how this small island nation contains multitudes—from the cosmopolitan energy of Reykjavík to the remote wilderness accessible only by small aircraft, from active volcanic zones to ancient cultural traditions that continue to thrive in the modern world.