Ericeira - Portugal

May 8 - 9

San Francisco to Lisbon: Family Logistics in Motion

Our Portuguese adventure began with the intricate choreography that defines modern family travel. The San Francisco contingent—ourselves joined by Nate, Else, and 18-month-old Leona—boarded a TAP Air Portugal direct flight to Lisbon, marking Leona's inaugural long-haul journey. What we didn't anticipate was discovering that traveling with small children in Portugal comes with unexpected perks: families with young children enjoy express processing through Portuguese immigration, turning potential stress into swift efficiency.

Meanwhile, Tomas and Helena took a different route originating in Berlin via Brussels Air, connecting through Brussels before arriving in Lisbon approximately an hour before our group. The reunion in Lisbon's terminal was electric—six months had passed since we'd last embraced Tomas and Helena in Berlin, while Nate, Else, and Leona hadn't seen them since their European relocation in January 2023.

After collecting our rental van and managing the logistics of luggage and six adults plus one energetic toddler, we caravanned toward Ericeira. Our apartment wasn't yet ready, which led to our first taste of Portuguese coastal culture: lunch at a local fish restaurant adjacent to Ericeira's traditional fish market. The authentic atmosphere and fresh-caught seafood provided the perfect introduction to the culinary pleasures that would define our stay.

Meeting our caretaker—who doubled as the owner of the coffee shop occupying the ground floor of our building—added local flavor to our arrival. Our three-bedroom, three-bathroom penthouse apartment exceeded all expectations, but the crown jewel was undoubtedly the rooftop terrace. Enclosed with glass panels to preserve spectacular views over Fisherman's Beach while creating a safe play area for Leona, this space would become the heart of our family time.

The evening was spent in the simple pleasure of reunion—catching up on months of separation while exploring Ericeira's narrow streets and discovering the village's unhurried rhythm.

Learn More: Ericeira Portugal Tourism

May 10

Settling Into Seaside Rhythms: First Beach Day at Fisherman's Beach

Our first full day in Ericeira established the perfect pace for a family beach holiday. Fisherman's Beach, located just steps from our apartment door, offered the ideal introduction to Portugal's Atlantic coast. The convenience of this proximity proved invaluable with a toddler in tow—Leona could transition seamlessly from apartment to beach to nap time without the stress of long travels.

The beach day allowed everyone to decompress from travel while giving Leona her first taste of Portuguese sand and surf. Watching three generations enjoy the same stretch of beach—from grandparents reading under umbrellas to parents helping Leona build her first sandcastles—captured the essence of why family travel creates such lasting memories.

Evening brought our first exploration of Ericeira's dining scene at Primm, a village restaurant that accommodated our large group with a spacious outdoor table. The meal became a celebration of Portuguese hospitality and cuisine: fresh fish prepared with local techniques, sangria flowing freely, and the joy of watching Leona enthusiastically sample every dish within reach. Her adventurous palate and obvious delight with the food became a recurring theme throughout our stay.

The post-dinner stroll through Ericeira's historic center revealed layers of the village's maritime heritage. We investigated the town square with its central role in local life, wandered past the fishing port where colorful boats awaited their next excursions, and began to understand how this former fishing village had evolved into a sophisticated coastal destination without losing its authentic character.

May 11

Discovering Ericeira's Northern Treasures:

Surf Culture and Coastal Walks

Day four expanded our geographical understanding of Ericeira as we ventured north through the village toward Praia de São Sebastião. This walk revealed Ericeira's evolution from fishing village to surf mecca, with surf shops, board rental outlets, and cafés catering to international wave riders dotting the route.

Watching surfers navigate the northern beaches provided endless entertainment for our group. Leona was particularly fascinated by the colorful boards and the graceful movements of surfers riding waves, pointing excitedly each time someone caught a good ride. For the adults, observing the international surf community added another layer of appreciation for why Ericeira earned its designation as Europe's only World Surfing Reserve.

The narrow streets of Ericeira proved perfect for meandering exploration. Traditional Portuguese architecture—whitewashed houses with distinctive blue trim, intricate tile work, and flower-filled balconies—created a photogenic backdrop for our leisurely wanderings. Each turn revealed new details: artisan shops tucked into converted ground floors, small galleries featuring local artists, and cafés that seemed designed for lingering over coffee and conversation.

This day embodied the concept of "family time at its best"—no rigid schedule, no must-see attractions, just the pleasure of being together in a beautiful place. Leona's wonder at everything from street cats to colorful fishing nets reminded us to see familiar sights through fresh eyes, while conversations between three generations created bonds that transcend the ordinary challenges of daily life.

Beaches Explored: Praia de São Sebastião area Activities: Surf watching, village walking, architectural appreciation Cultural Insights: International surf community, traditional Portuguese village life

May 12

Mother's Day Palace Adventure: Mafra Palace and Royal Gardens

Mother's Day provided the perfect excuse for a cultural excursion to nearby Mafra and its spectacular National Palace. This UNESCO World Heritage Site, built during the reign of King João V in the 18th century, offered a striking contrast to our coastal village life while remaining easily accessible for a day trip with extended family.

The self-guided tour of the palace worked perfectly for our multigenerational group. Tomas and Helena graciously handled Leona's stroller navigation, while Nate and Tomas carried the stroller up the grand staircases—moments of family cooperation that exemplified the trip's collaborative spirit. The palace's scale impressed everyone, but the highlight came when we stumbled upon a live mass in the palace's baroque basilica, complete with organ music that transported us back centuries.

Leona's behavior throughout the palace tour reminded us why family travel requires flexibility and patience. Rather than rushing through exhibits, we adapted our pace to accommodate toddler attention spans, discovering that this slower approach actually enhanced our appreciation of the palace's details. The ornate library, royal chambers, and historical artifacts became more meaningful when shared across three generations.

The extensive palace gardens provided the perfect antidote to indoor touring. Leona delighted in the adjacent playground, while adults appreciated the formal garden design and peaceful atmosphere. Lunch at Escondidinho in Mafra village featured excellent food and wine, with both Nate and Tomas ordering the Francesinha—a moment of culinary synchronicity that became one of many small shared experiences that define family travel.

Our return journey included a strategic stop at Praia de Ribeira d'Ilhas, the famous surf spot that serves as a crown jewel of the World Surfing Reserve. The beach provided the perfect setting for Leona to run freely in the sand while adults marveled at the surfing skills on display. The natural amphitheater setting, created by surrounding cliffs, offered excellent vantage points for surf watching.

Back in Ericeira, the day concluded at our favorite outdoor bar overlooking Fisherman's Beach. Watching the sunset while reflecting on a successful palace adventure reinforced our growing appreciation for Ericeira as a base that combined relaxation with easy access to cultural treasures.

Cultural Site: Mafra National Palace (UNESCO World Heritage Site) Beach: Praia de Ribeira d'Ilhas (World Surfing Reserve) Dining: Escondidinho, Mafra village Learn More: UNESCO Mafra Listing

May 13

Market Shopping and Village Life

Day six embraced the domestic side of family travel with a comprehensive grocery expedition that introduced us to Portuguese culinary culture. The local markets revealed treasures that would become staples of our apartment dining: exceptional canned fish varieties, incredibly fresh vegetables, and Portuguese wines that delivered remarkable quality at surprisingly affordable prices.

Preparing lunch together in the apartment kitchen became an unexpectedly bonding experience. Everyone contributed to meal preparation, from Leona "helping" wash vegetables to the adults collaborating on recipe interpretation. These shared domestic moments often prove more memorable than organized activities, creating the comfortable rhythms that define successful family holidays.

Evening brought us to Cucina 37, a tiny Italian restaurant that demonstrated Ericeira's international influences while maintaining intimate village charm. The excellent pasta and memorable espresso martinis provided sophisticated dining in a cozy atmosphere. Leona charmed the staff and other diners with her enthusiasm for trying new foods and her obvious comfort in restaurant settings.

The post-dinner gelato expedition to the town square gelato shop became a multi-generational adventure. Watching Leona's delight at her first Portuguese gelato while adults savored their own flavors captured the simple pleasures that make family travel special. The subsequent village wandering, dubbed "walking off the tremendous meal," provided gentle exercise and opportunities for spontaneous conversations that wouldn't happen in more structured settings.

Activities: Local market shopping, apartment cooking, village dining Culinary Discoveries: Portuguese canned fish, local wines, artisanal gelato Restaurant: Cucina 37 for Italian cuisine Cultural Immersion: Daily life rhythms in Portuguese village setting

May 14

Split Adventures: Porto Exploration and Beach Bonding

This day showcased family travel's flexibility when Nate, Else, Tomas, and Helena caught an early train from Lisbon for a quick Porto adventure. The efficiency of Portuguese transportation allowed them to be walking Porto's historic streets within hours of departure from Ericeira. Their itinerary included visits to the famous Livraria Lello bookshop (rumored to have inspired Harry Potter settings), centuries-old cafés, Port wine tastings, and riverside walks along the Douro—a perfect introduction to Portugal's second city.

Meanwhile, Leona stayed behind with her grandparents for a different kind of adventure at Praia do Sul. This beach day without parents allowed for special grandparent-grandchild bonding while providing a more relaxed pace suited to toddler energy levels. Watching elementary school children on their beach field trip entertained Leona, while the sight of organized groups of young Portuguese students added cultural authenticity to the beach experience.

The afternoon's highlight came with Leona's introduction to Pastel de Nata, Portugal's iconic custard tart. Her enthusiastic consumption of this national treasure—asking for "MORE!" in English while surrounded by Portuguese conversations—embodied the universal language of good food and family love.

Village strolling with Leona in her stroller provided opportunities to explore Ericeira's architectural details and ocean vistas at a leisurely pace. Churches with intricate azulejo tilework, traditional fishing equipment displays, and constantly changing Atlantic views created an ever-interesting backdrop for gentle exploration.

Porto Activities: Livraria Lello bookshop, historic cafés, Port wine tasting, Douro River walks Beach: Praia do Sul, Ericeira Transportation: Train from Lisbon's Sao Bento station to Porto in ~3 hours

May 15

Café Culture and Seaside Friendships

With half the group still enjoying Porto, the remaining family members embraced a slower pace centered around Fisherman's Beach and local café culture. Leona's natural sociability shone when she befriended a little boy from London, demonstrating how children transcend language and cultural barriers through the universal language of play.

Lunch at Café do Joy, positioned strategically above Fisherman's Beach, provided both excellent food and entertainment. The café's location offered perfect views of beach activities while serving memorable dishes—particularly the bowl of enormous shrimp that captivated both John and Leona. Watching Leona's determination to try every new food, especially seafood, reinforced our appreciation for her adventurous palate and adaptability to new cultures.

The café setting allowed for leisurely observation of Ericeira's daily rhythms: local fishermen preparing equipment, surfers checking conditions, families establishing beach territories, and the constant ebb and flow of village life. These unstructured observation periods often provide deeper cultural insights than organized tours, revealing how local communities actually function beyond tourist interactions.

Beach time continued to prove perfect for multigenerational bonding, with each family member finding their preferred beach activities while maintaining group cohesion. Whether building sandcastles, reading in the Portuguese sun, or simply watching waves, everyone discovered their personal rhythm within the group dynamic.

May 16

Tapas Celebration and Birthday Surprises

Day nine brought our entire reunited group to Tik Tak Tapas, an experience that epitomized Portuguese hospitality and family celebration. The restaurant's popularity required advance reservations, but the packed atmosphere added to rather than detracted from the evening's energy. The tapas format proved perfect for family dining, allowing everyone to sample diverse dishes while sharing both food and conversation.

The restaurant staff's engagement with Leona demonstrated the Portuguese culture's genuine warmth toward children. Rather than tolerating a toddler's presence, the staff actively included her in the evening's festivities, creating special interactions that made her feel welcomed and valued. This attitude toward children as full participants in social and cultural experiences exemplified why Portugal ranks among the world's most family-friendly destinations.

The flowing sangria and beer contributed to an atmosphere of celebration that extended beyond just our family to include interactions with other diners and staff. These spontaneous social connections, facilitated by Portuguese warmth and perhaps aided by wine, created memories that organized activities rarely match.

The evening's emotional highlight came when Else and Helena presented Ann with a beautiful necklace for her birthday—a gesture that transformed a simple family dinner into a milestone celebration. The necklace would serve as a permanent reminder of this special family time in Portugal, embodying the trip's deeper significance beyond mere tourism.

Restaurant: Tik Tak Tapas (reservations essential) Culinary Experience: Portuguese tapas sharing culture Cultural Insights: Portuguese attitudes toward children in dining settings

May 17

Family Connections

Morning began at Green Is Good, a restaurant that balanced health-conscious dining with delicious flavors—a combination that pleased both nutrition-minded adults and taste-focused toddlers. The establishment's emphasis on fresh, healthy ingredients reflected broader Portuguese culinary values while accommodating contemporary dietary preferences.

Perfect weather blessed our afternoon beach session at Fisherman's Beach, allowing for extended outdoor time that showcased Ericeira's climate advantages. The consistent mild temperatures and ocean breezes created ideal conditions for family beach activities while avoiding the extreme heat that can challenge toddler comfort in summer destinations.

The day's special dimension came with the arrival of Helena's great uncle and his wife, who had recently relocated to Portugal south of Lisbon. Their drive to Ericeira for lunch demonstrated the strong family bonds that transcend geography, while their recent Portuguese residency provided insider perspectives on expat life in the country.

The extended family meal offered unique insights into contemporary Portuguese life from the perspective of recent immigrants. Hearing about their adaptation experiences, housing decisions, and cultural observations added depth to our tourist perspective while reinforcing the broader appeal of Portugal as a lifestyle destination.

For Helena, this reunion carried special emotional significance—18 months had passed since their last meeting, making this encounter particularly precious. These moments of extended family connection often prove more meaningful than planned tourist activities, creating personal significance that transcends mere sightseeing.

The day concluded with a memorable dinner at Costa Fria along Ericeira's waterfront, chosen as a farewell meal for Nate, Else, and Leona who would depart the following morning. The restaurant's excellent food and atmospheric setting provided the perfect backdrop for celebrating our week together while acknowledging the bittersweet reality of family separations.

Morning Dining: Green Is Good for healthy cuisine Extended Family: Helena's great uncle visit and lunch Farewell Dinner: Costa Fria waterfront restaurant Cultural Insights: Expat perspectives on Portuguese life

May 18

Farewell and Coastal Exploration

The 40-minute drive to Lisbon Airport for Nate, Else, and Leona's departure marked a poignant transition in our Portuguese adventure. Seeing them off represented both the end of our extended family time and the beginning of a more intimate exploration phase with just four adults remaining.

The afternoon's walk to Praia de Mil Regos with Tomas and Helena introduced us to a less crowded section of the World Surfing Reserve, demonstrating Ericeira's ability to offer both popular and secluded beach experiences. This uncrowded stretch provided different perspectives on the coastal landscape while maintaining the area's renowned surf conditions.

Our stop at the Boardrider's Quicksilver shop reflected Ericeira's deep integration with international surf culture. The presence of global surf brands alongside local businesses illustrated how the village had successfully embraced its surfing identity while maintaining Portuguese authenticity.

Dinner at Secret Oven introduced us to locally brewed beer from Mean Sardine brewery, specifically the Ericeira Sunset blonde ale. These local craft beer discoveries added another layer to our understanding of Ericeira's contemporary culture, showing how traditional Portuguese village life had evolved to include artisanal food and beverage production.

The pizza and beer combination provided perfect comfort food after an emotional day of farewells, while the local brewery connection reinforced Ericeira's success in balancing tourism development with community character.

Beach Discovery: Praia de Mil Regos (uncrowded World Surfing Reserve section) Surf Culture: Boardrider's Quicksilver shop international presence Local Dining: Secret Oven with Mean Sardine brewery products

May 19

Embracing the Art of Doing Nothing

Our penultimate day in Ericeira embodied the concept of perfectly lazy travel days. Without scheduled activities or departure pressures, we surrendered to the village's unhurried pace and focused on savoring our remaining time in this coastal paradise.

Wandering the village with cameras captured details we'd previously overlooked in our busy exploration schedule. The leisurely pace allowed for deeper appreciation of architectural elements, street art, local flora, and the subtle changes in light throughout the day that revealed different aspects of Ericeira's beauty.

Photography sessions became meditation as we documented not just sights but also the feeling of being completely relaxed in a beautiful place. These images would serve as reminders of the peaceful state of mind that Ericeira had fostered over our stay.

The final drinks at our beloved outdoor sunset bar provided closure to our daily ritual of evening aperitifs overlooking Fisherman's Beach. This routine had become so integral to our Ericeira experience that its final iteration carried special significance as both celebration and farewell.

The absolute beauty of the early summer day—perfect temperatures, crystal clear skies, gentle ocean breezes—reminded us why timing matters in travel. Our May visit had provided ideal weather conditions that enhanced every outdoor activity while avoiding the intense heat and crowds of peak summer months.

Activities: Village photography, sunset bar farewell aperitifs Philosophy: Embracing slow travel and present-moment awareness Weather: Perfect early summer conditions Reflection: Appreciation for unhurried travel experiences

May 20

Departure and Onward Adventures

Our final morning included one last drive to Lisbon Airport, this time for Tomas and Helena's earlier departure. The timing worked perfectly for a brief but emotional reunion as we encountered them just before their boarding their flight to Munich and onward to Berlin. These chance airport meetings, with quick hugs and kisses before everyone dispersed to respective destinations, captured the bittersweet nature of family travel conclusions.

The several hours before our EasyJet flight to Madeira provided reflection time on our Ericeira experience while anticipating the next phase of our Portuguese adventure.

The emotional arc of family reunions—initial excitement, daily bonding, gradual adaptation, and eventual separation—had played out perfectly against Ericeira's backdrop. The village had provided not just accommodation and activities but also the perfect setting for family relationships to deepen and new memories to form.

Boarding our flight to Madeira represented continuation rather than conclusion of our Portuguese journey, with Ericeira serving as the ideal foundation for understanding Portuguese culture, hospitality, and lifestyle before exploring the country's Atlantic island extensions.

Transition: From mainland Portugal to Atlantic islands exploration Reflection: Family reunion success within Portuguese coastal setting