Fagradalsfjall Volcano - Iceland

Itinerary

Jul 2

The Waiting Game in Reykjavik - Hope and Disappointment

Anticipation hung heavy in the air as we woke to another cloudy Reykjavik morning, checking the volcanic monitoring websites that had become our obsession. The Fagradalsfjall volcano, which had been intermittently active throughout 2021-2023, had gone quiet just as we'd arrived in Iceland. Every weather report and seismic update felt like a personal affront to our carefully laid plans.

This marked yet another disappointment in our ongoing quest to witness Iceland's geological drama. Weather had thwarted previous attempts, and now the volcano itself seemed determined to remain dormant during our visit. The irony wasn't lost on us – here we were in one of the world's most volcanically active countries, and Mother Nature was refusing to cooperate.

Instead of dwelling on our volcanic misfortunes, we embraced a slower pace and used the day to reconnect with Reykjavik's urban charms. A leisurely shopping expedition led us through the city's colorful streets, where we discovered local crafts and woolens that would serve as tangible memories of our journey. Walking tours revealed hidden corners of the capital we'd missed in our rush to chase natural wonders.

The day wasn't wasted, but as evening approached, the disappointment of another volcanoless day weighed on our spirits. Little did we know that geological forces were already stirring beneath the Reykjanes Peninsula, preparing to deliver an experience beyond our wildest dreams.

Activities: Reykjavik city exploration, shopping, urban walking exploration Learn More: Iceland Volcanic Activity Updates

Jul 3

The Best Day of Our Trip: From 4 AM Alert to Helicopter Landing at an Active Fissure

At 4:00 AM, Ann's vigilant monitoring of Iceland's volcanic webcams paid off in spectacular fashion. The screens showed the unmistakable orange glow of fresh eruption at Fagradalsfjall – the volcano was alive again! In Iceland's endless summer daylight, 4 AM felt like midday as we scrambled to gather our gear and race toward what would become the adventure of a lifetime.

The Icelandic Met Office monitoring system had detected renewed activity, and we weren't about to miss this geological show. Armed with plenty of food, water, and warm clothing, we arrived at the trailhead to find only a handful of other early risers and thick, low-hanging clouds that added mystery to the landscape.

Our hike into Geldingadalur valley began in anticipation, following the well-marked trails that lead to various viewpoints of the volcanic area. The first hour revealed recent basalt flows from previous months' activity – dark, otherworldly landscapes that looked like the surface of an alien planet. But we were here for something more spectacular.

As we continued deeper into the valley, the clouds began to lift like a theatrical curtain, revealing the sight we'd traveled thousands of miles to witness: bright orange lava pouring over ridges from an active fissure beyond. The timing was perfect – the lava flow in the valley was cooling and slowing, allowing us to approach within 3-4 meters of this incredible force of nature.

Standing next to flowing lava while receiving a phone call felt surreal – and that call would prove to change everything. The helicopter charter company we'd contacted earlier in our trip was calling with incredible news: they could take us directly to the fissure that very afternoon! Since the lava had breached the ridge and started filling the valley, hiking to the eruption source was impossible, making the helicopter our only option to get closer to the action.

After spending the morning mesmerized by the flowing lava, we reluctantly hiked back to our car and raced to Reykjavik Domestic Airport. The 20-minute flight over the city and volcanic fields was breathtaking preparation for what awaited us at the fissure. From the air, we could see the bright red fountain of lava and volcanic gases from a considerable distance – a beacon of Earth's inner fire reaching toward the sky.

Our pilot expertly selected a hilltop landing site just 100-200 meters from the active fissure, still safely away from the lava flows. For twenty precious minutes, we stood on volcanic soil that was being created before our eyes, witnessing one of nature's most primordial processes. Scrambling down the hill to the lava's edge, we watched it flow past us as fast as a mountain stream, its surface glowing like molten metal.

The sound was as unforgettable as the sight – an ominous rumble that seemed to emanate from the Earth's core, shaking our bones and reminding us of the incredible forces at work beneath our feet. This wasn't just visual spectacle; it was a full-sensory immersion in geological creation that left us speechless.

The return helicopter flight over the fresh lava fields and barren landscape provided a bird's-eye perspective on the day's events, cementing this experience as the highlight not just of our Iceland trip, but of our entire travel careers. That evening's celebration with fish and chips and local beer felt like a victory feast – we'd successfully chased and caught one of nature's most elusive shows.

Trail Information: Fagradalsfjall Hiking Guide Learn More: Fagradalsfjall Volcano Information

Jul 4

Recovery and Reflection: Sky Lagoon - The Perfect Volcanic Aftermath

After yesterday's adrenaline-fueled volcanic adventure, our bodies and minds craved restoration. We moved into accommodation near the Sky Lagoon, Iceland's newest and most sophisticated geothermal spa, perfectly positioned for our final full day in Iceland. The excitement of standing next to flowing lava still coursed through our bones and muscles, creating a unique kind of exhaustion that only such extraordinary experiences can produce.

Our afternoon appointment at Sky Lagoon couldn't have been more perfectly timed. Located on Kópavogur's coastline just 15 minutes from central Reykjavik, this luxury geothermal experience offered the ideal counterpoint to yesterday's raw volcanic encounter. Where Fagradalsfjall had shown us Earth's creative violence, Sky Lagoon demonstrated Iceland's gentler geothermal gifts.

The spa's sophistication immediately impressed us – this wasn't just a hot spring, but a carefully curated wellness journey. The centerpiece infinity pool appeared to merge seamlessly with the Atlantic Ocean beyond, creating a sense of floating at the edge of the world. Cascading waterfalls and panoramic sea views provided a dramatic backdrop as we soaked in the 38-40°C (100-104°F) mineral-rich waters.

But Sky Lagoon's true distinction lies in its seven-step Skjól Ritual, an immersive spa experience rooted in Icelandic traditions. The journey began with the lagoon's warm embrace, followed by a invigorating cold plunge inspired by ancient Icelandic practices. The seaside sauna, featuring floor-to-ceiling windows and exceptional ocean views, allowed us to warm up while contemplating the dramatic landscape we'd been exploring for weeks.

The ritual continued with a refreshing cold mist reminiscent of gentle Icelandic rainfall, followed by a luxurious Sky Body Scrub infused with nourishing oils that left our skin glowing. A therapeutic steam session and final signature drink – an elixir infused with crowberries that thrive on Iceland's lava fields – completed this perfect circle of fire and water.

Perhaps the most memorable touch was the swim-up bar featuring local Gull beer, allowing us to toast our volcanic success while floating in geothermal waters with the North Atlantic stretching endlessly before us. Ann declared it her favorite spa experience ever, and given the day we'd just survived, that was saying something.

The Skjól Ritual felt like the perfect metaphor for our entire Icelandic adventure – a journey through extremes of hot and cold, earth and water, excitement and tranquility. After witnessing the violent birth of new land at Fagradalsfjall, we were now experiencing the healing, restorative power of that same geothermal energy in its most refined form.

Spa Experience: Sky Lagoon Official Site

Jul 5

Farewell to the Land of Fire and Ice

Keflavik Airport - One Last Magical Encounter

Our final morning in Iceland dawned with the bittersweet reality of departure. Packing our belongings felt like closing a chapter on one of the most extraordinary adventures of our lives. The drive to Keflavik Airport should have been routine, a simple transition from adventure back to ordinary life – but Iceland had one more surprise waiting for us.

Halfway to the airport, an Arctic fox crossed the road directly in front of our camper van, pausing just long enough for us to appreciate this serendipitous farewell. In a country where we'd been hoping to spot these elusive creatures throughout our month-long journey, this final encounter felt like Iceland's way of saying goodbye. The fox's appearance seemed perfectly timed – a reminder that even in departure, this extraordinary island nation continued to surprise and delight.

At the rental return facility, we braced ourselves for the inevitable damage assessment. Our faithful camper van bore the battle scars of a month exploring Iceland's wildest corners: several new scratches and dings, plus a missing hubcap somewhere along the countless gravel roads we'd navigated. The rental company's response perfectly encapsulated the Icelandic spirit we'd come to love: "These things happen in Iceland." No charges, no hassles, just understanding that adventure comes with a price – and they were happy to absorb it.

This gracious attitude felt like the perfect capstone to our month-long love affair with Iceland and its people. From the teenage docents in the Westfjords who'd learned English from Nickelodeon to the brewery owners sharing their craft beer passion, every interaction had reinforced why Iceland captures travelers' hearts so completely.

Boarding our Icelandair Boeing 757 "Grábrok" (named after a volcanic crater, naturally), we carried with us not just souvenirs and photos, but transformative memories that would influence how we approach travel for years to come. The scenic flight over Iceland's volcanic landscape provided aerial views of the geological wonders we'd experienced up close, while the journey home gave us time to process the extraordinary privilege we'd enjoyed.

Standing next to flowing lava, soaking in natural hot springs under the midnight sun, and witnessing the raw power of Earth's geological forces had created memories that would remain vivid long after we'd returned to everyday life. Iceland had shown us that the most meaningful travel experiences often come not from checking items off a bucket list, but from remaining open to serendipity and embracing the unexpected gifts that adventure provides.

More: Icelandair Experience | Keflavik Airport Services