Berlin - Germany

Itinerary

Nov 22

Arrival and Reunion Our Berlin adventure began with a scenic train journey that arrived at the magnificent Hauptbahnhof an hour behind schedule—a reminder that the best travel experiences often come with unexpected timing. This massive glass and steel cathedral, opened in 2006, stands as Europe's largest crossing station and replaced the historic Lehrter Bahnhof, destroyed in WWII. Tomas and Helena's warm welcome at the station immediately set the tone for our stay, as they expertly guided us through Berlin's excellent public transport system to our Airbnb, only a few blocks from their apartment.

Our first evening concluded at Ho Lo Asia Restaurant, a local favorite of Tomas and Helena's, an introduction to Berlin's exceptional international food scene. Berlin's diverse culinary landscape reflects its history as a divided city where both East and West developed distinct food cultures, later enriched by waves of immigration from Turkey, Vietnam, and beyond.

Nov 23

Historic Landmarks and German Democracy Day two delivered the quintessential Berlin experience as Tomas led us through the city's most iconic sites, made all the more special as it was Thanksgiving Day back in the United States, giving us reason to feel particularly grateful for this incredible opportunity to explore Berlin's history. The Brandenburg Gate, completed in 1791 as a symbol of peace, ironically became the most potent symbol of division during the Cold War when it stood trapped in the death strip of the Berlin Wall. A stroll down Unter den Linden—literally "Under the Linden Trees"—revealed the grand boulevard that Frederick the Great transformed into Berlin's ceremonial route to connect his palace with the hunting grounds.

The Berlin Cathedral's impressive dome, rebuilt after WWII bombing, represents the ambitions of Kaiser Wilhelm II, who wanted to rival St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. Potsdamer Platz, once Europe's busiest intersection in the 1920s, was completely destroyed in WWII and became a wasteland divided by the Berlin Wall before its dramatic reconstruction in the 1990s.

A lunch stop at City Imbiss provided our first taste of Berlin's legendary döner kebab—a Turkish-German fusion created by Turkish immigrants in the 1970s that has become the city's unofficial signature dish. The day culminated with a visit to the historic Reichstag, where architect Paul Wallot's 1894 design survived burning in 1933, bombing in WWII, and Soviet occupation before Norman Foster's glass dome renovation in 1999 symbolized German democratic transparency. Unfortunately, the rainy evening weather made for less-than-ideal views from the rooftop, though the architectural experience inside remained impressive despite the overcast conditions.

Nov 24

Wildlife and Shopping Adventures

The Berlin Zoological Garden, founded in 1844, earned its reputation as Germany's oldest zoo through royal patronage from Frederick William IV of Prussia. The zoo survived both world wars despite severe damage and animal losses, rebuilding to become home to famous residents like Knut the polar bear and the world's largest elephant house. The adjacent Aquarium Berlin, built in 1913, pioneered aquarium design with its three-story structure and remains one of Europe's most biodiverse aquatic collections.

Afternoon shopping along the famous Kurfürstendamm revealed the boulevard's evolution from a simple bridle path to Prussia's grandest shopping street. After WWII destroyed much of East Berlin's shopping district, West Berlin developed "Ku'damm" as its commercial heart, making it a symbol of Western prosperity during the Cold War era.

The Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church tells one of Berlin's most powerful stories. Kaiser Wilhelm II commissioned this church in 1895 to honor his grandfather, but RAF bombing in 1943 destroyed most of the structure. Rather than rebuild completely, architect Egon Eiermann created a modernist complex around the damaged spire—now called the "hollow tooth"—transforming wartime destruction into a peace memorial.

The evening brought Greek cuisine at Kouzina Berlin in Charlottenburg, followed by intimate live music at The Hat Bar Berlin. Vintage ambiance and tiny-stage performances created the perfect end to a culturally rich day.

Nov 25

Currywurst and Football Culture Classic Berlin street food started our day with currywurst from the legendary Curry 36—a dish invented in 1949 by Herta Heuwer, who mixed ketchup with curry powder and Worcestershire sauce to create what became Berlin's most iconic street food. This authentic fuel prepared us for an authentic German football experience at Stadion An der Alten Försterei, home to Union Berlin since 1920. The stadium, built with volunteer labor from Union fans who contributed over 140,000 hours of work, epitomizes East German community spirit and remains one of Europe's most atmospheric football venues.

The day concluded in Kreuzberg, historically West Berlin's most rebellious district, where squatters and artists created alternative culture in buildings damaged by WWII bombing. Today, this former "island" surrounded by the Berlin Wall has become one of Europe's most vibrant multicultural neighborhoods, perfectly exemplified by authentic Vietnamese cuisine that reflects Berlin's diverse immigrant communities. A warm bowl of pho from PHO-Noodlebar warmed us up after a long day out in the cold.

Nov 26

Dinosaurs, Walls, and Cinema

The Museum für Naturkunde, founded in 1810 as part of Berlin University, houses one of the world's largest natural history collections in a magnificent 1889 building that survived both world wars. The museum's crown jewel, the Giraffatitan skeleton, was discovered during German colonial expeditions to Tanzania and remains the world's largest mounted dinosaur at 13 meters tall. The pristine Archaeopteryx specimen represents one of only twelve known examples of this crucial evolutionary link between dinosaurs and birds.

The Berlin Wall Memorial on Bernauer Straße occupies the exact location where the wall's construction began on August 13, 1961. This street witnessed some of the most dramatic escape attempts, including people jumping from apartment windows into West Berlin before the buildings were sealed and later demolished. The preserved 60-meter section and documentation center provide the most authentic remaining experience of how the wall actually divided the city.

Our cultural day concluded at the historic Zoo Palast cinema, which opened in 1919 and hosted the world premiere of "The Blue Angel" starring Marlene Dietrich in 1930. After war damage and reconstruction, it became West Berlin's premier cinema and a symbol of cultural resistance during the Cold War, when attending Western films was an act of defiance against East German restrictions.

Nov 27

Spa Luxury and Royal Christmas Vabali spa represents Berlin's embrace of international wellness culture, bringing Balinese design philosophy to German precision engineering across 13 saunas and extensive relaxation facilities. This concept reflects how modern Berlin incorporates global influences while maintaining Germanic attention to detail and quality.

The afternoon brought our first taste of Berlin's legendary Christmas market tradition at Charlottenburg Palace. Christmas markets originated in Dresden in 1434, but Berlin's markets gained special significance during the Cold War when West Berlin's festive displays served as symbols of Western prosperity visible to East Berliners. Charlottenburg Palace itself, built for Sophie Charlotte of Hanover in 1695, represents Prussian royal ambitions to rival Versailles and remains Berlin's largest palace complex.

Nov 28

Shopping and Alternative Christmas Kurfürstendamm shopping revealed the boulevard's Cold War significance as West Berlin's answer to East Berlin's Unter den Linden. The street's development accelerated after 1961 when the Berlin Wall cut off traditional shopping areas, making Ku'damm a symbol of capitalist prosperity deliberately visible to East Berliners.

Christmas Avenue Berlin in Schöneberg represents the district's historic role as Berlin's LGBTQ+ center since the 1920s, when Magnus Hirschfeld established the world's first Institute for Sexual Research nearby. This underground Christmas market continues Schöneberg's tradition of providing alternative cultural spaces that challenge conventional social norms.

Dinner at Boccacelli am Winterfeldtplatz concluded the day with excellent Italian cuisine—large pizzas, homemade pasta, and classic mains that demonstrated Berlin's international culinary excellence beyond German traditions.

Nov 29

Cold War History and Medieval Charm Checkpoint Charlie, the third checkpoint established by the Allies, earned its name from the NATO phonetic alphabet (Alpha, Bravo, Charlie). This crossing point gained global attention during the October 1961 tank standoff between American and Soviet forces—the closest the Cold War came to actual warfare in Berlin. While the original checkpoint was removed in 1990, the site remains a powerful symbol of how a divided city became the world's most dangerous intersection.

The nearby Rotes Rathaus (Red City Hall) takes its name from the red clinker bricks chosen not for political reasons but for durability. Built between 1861-1869, it replaced medieval buildings and was deliberately designed to rival Italian Renaissance palaces, reflecting Prussia's growing confidence and European ambitions during German unification. During the festive period, it hosts one of the largest Christmas markets in Berlin, featuring a Ferris wheel and Santa flying through the sky in the evenings.

The Nikolaiviertel represents East Germany's first attempt at historic preservation. While heavily damaged in WWII, the area around St. Nicholas' Church—Berlin's oldest building, dating to 1230—was reconstructed in the 1980s as the East German government sought to reclaim pre-war heritage and boost tourist appeal during the final decades of communist rule.

Evening dining at Repke Spätzlerei was special because it featured excellent spaetzle, schnitzel, and flammkuchen in a cozy traditional atmosphere that required reservations—always a good sign for authentic local cuisine.

Nov 30

Shopping and Scandinavian Christmas KaDeWe (Kaufhaus des Westens) opened in 1907 as Germany's answer to Harrods and Galeries Lafayette, symbolizing Berlin's emergence as a European metropolis. During the Cold War, this West Berlin institution became a powerful propaganda tool—its six floors of luxury goods visible to East Berliners demonstrated capitalist abundance. The store's legendary food hall on the sixth floor remains Europe's largest delicatessen, with over 30,000 food items from around the world.

The Lucia Christmas Market in Prenzlauer Berg occupies the historic Kulturbrauerei, a 19th-century brewery complex that exemplifies Berlin's successful industrial heritage preservation. The Scandinavian theme reflects Berlin's growing Nordic cultural connections and the popularity of hygge lifestyle concepts among contemporary Berliners seeking alternatives to traditional German Christmas market offerings.

Late-night hunger led us to Burgermeister, a local Berlin burger joint that proved perfect for quick, satisfying dinner while exploring the city's casual dining scene.

Dec 1

Controversial Museum and Premium Markets The Humboldt Forum represents one of Europe's most controversial cultural projects. Built as a reconstruction of the Prussian Royal Palace (demolished by East Germany in 1950), the €677 million project opened in 2019 as Germany's attempt to create a "museum of world cultures." Named for the Humboldt brothers—Wilhelm (linguist and philosopher) and Alexander (naturalist and explorer)—the forum houses ethnological collections that reflect Germany's colonial past and ongoing debates about cultural repatriation.

WeihnachtsZauber Gendarmenmarkt occupies one of Europe's most beautiful squares, flanked by the twin domes of the German and French Cathedrals, built to demonstrate religious tolerance during the Enlightenment. The square's name honors the Gens d'armes regiment, elite French soldiers who served Prussian kings, reflecting Berlin's historic international character.

Christmas at Botanical Gardens Berlin transforms the world's third-largest botanical garden into a winter wonderland. Founded in 1679 as a royal herb garden, these 43-hectare grounds moved to their current location in 1899 and house over 22,000 plant species. The Christmas illumination concept, inspired by Kew Gardens, demonstrates how Berlin institutions adapt international ideas while maintaining their scientific and educational missions.

Dec 2

Victory and Remembrance

The Victory Column (Siegessäule) began as a monument to Prussia's 1864 victory over Denmark but grew in significance as Prussia defeated Austria (1866) and France (1870-71) during German unification. Originally located in front of the Reichstag, the Nazis moved it to its current position in 1938 to create a grand east-west axis for rallies. The goddess Victoria atop the column—nicknamed "Goldelse" (Golden Lizzy) by Berliners—has become an inadvertent symbol of Berlin's ability to find humor in the most serious monuments.

The Tiergarten, originally Frederick I's hunting ground in 1527, was transformed by landscape architect Peter Joseph Lenné in the 1830s into an English-style park. During WWII's final winter, desperate Berliners chopped down most trees for fuel, leaving the park completely barren. Today's mature forest represents post-war reforestation efforts and Berlin's remarkable recovery.

The Soviet War Memorial in Treptower Park, completed in 1949, remains one of the largest war memorials in Western Europe. The 12-meter bronze soldier statue carries a rescued child while crushing a swastika, symbolizing Soviet sacrifice for humanity. The memorial's 7,000 graves represent just a fraction of the 80,000 Soviet soldiers who died capturing Berlin—casualties that reflected Stalin's determination to reach the Nazi capital before Western allies.

Faustus Schnitzelhaus concluded our cultural exploration with hearty German cuisine—schnitzel, pork knuckle, and robust dishes accompanied by extensive wine selections that celebrated traditional German hospitality in cozy, atmospheric surroundings.

Dec 3

Football Victory and Airport Departure Hertha Berlin's impressive 5-1 victory at the historic Olympiastadion provided a triumphant conclusion to our German football experiences. Built for the 1936 Olympics as a showcase of Nazi architecture, the stadium was redesigned for the 2006 World Cup while preserving its imposing original structure. Hertha, founded in 1892 and named after a steamship, represents Berlin's working-class football tradition and the challenges of rebuilding East German clubs after reunification—the team spent decades struggling to match their pre-war success.

Due to our very early flight the next day, we journeyed to Berlin Brandenburg Airport on the U-Bahn, which offered final glimpses of the city's excellent public transportation system, which unified East and West Berlin networks after 1989. The new airport, opened in 2020 after a decade of delays and scandals, finally replaced the symbolic but outdated Tempelhof, whose massive terminal building remains a monument to 1930s architecture and the Berlin Airlift that saved the city during the Soviet blockade of 1948-49.