Akureyri - Iceland

Itinerary

June 15

Flight to the Arctic Circle

Our northern Iceland adventure began with an early morning flight aboard Icelandair's Dash 8-400 turboprop from Reykjavik to Akureyri, Iceland's second-largest urban area and the unofficial capital of the north. The 40-minute flight provided spectacular aerial views of Iceland's interior—vast ice fields, dramatic mountain ranges, and volcanic landscapes that stretched to every horizon, offering a preview of the untamed wilderness that defines northern Iceland.

The flight itself demonstrated Iceland's commitment to connecting remote communities across challenging terrain. Flying over the interior revealed landscapes too remote for practical road access, where glaciers and uninhabited highlands create some of Europe's last true wilderness areas. Our approach to Akureyri Airport showcased the city's stunning location at the head of Eyjafjörður, Iceland's longest fjord, surrounded by snow-capped peaks that create natural amphitheater around this northern outpost.

Upon arrival, we collected provisions and checked into our Airbnb accommodation, immediately appreciating Akureyri's compact, walkable character. Despite its modest size of 19,000 residents, the city buzzes with cultural energy, featuring museums, restaurants, and artistic venues that punch well above their weight. The fjord setting creates a microclimate that supports surprising botanical diversity, while the surrounding mountains provide dramatic backdrops to every street view.

Our afternoon's unique adventure took us to the town of Dalvik, located at the northern end of Eyjafjörður fjord, for what would prove to be one of Iceland's most innovative wellness experiences. Here, Bjórböðin - The Beer Spa has created the world's first beer spa in partnership with the neighboring Kaldi Brewery, Iceland's pioneering microbrewery established in 2006.

The experience began in outdoor hot tubs with unbelievable views across Eyjafjörður fjord to the mountains beyond. The contrast between the warm, therapeutic waters and the cool northern air, combined with panoramic vistas of one of Iceland's most beautiful fjords, created an immediately relaxing atmosphere that set the stage for the unique treatment ahead.

We were then led into a private room featuring a wooden soaking tub designed for two, filled with warm wort—the liquid extracted during brewing before fermentation begins. The aromatic mixture of water, beer, hops, and live yeast created an experience that engaged all the senses. The smell was incredible—rich, malty, and deeply satisfying in a way that only fresh brewing ingredients can provide. Rubbing the hops directly on our skin, as instructed, supposedly provides beneficial oils and minerals, though the sensory pleasure alone justified the experience.

Perhaps the most delightful aspect was the personal Kaldi beer tap positioned right next to the tub, allowing us to serve ourselves cold, finished beer while soaking in its unfermented predecessor. This ingenious detail captured the playful spirit of Icelandic innovation—combining ancient wellness traditions with modern craft brewing in a way that feels both authentic and whimsical.

Following our 25-minute soak, we were brought to a quiet, dimly lit relaxation room where the beer's nutrients could continue working on our skin while we processed the unique experience. The spa claims that the beer's live yeast and natural oils provide genuine skin benefits, though the mental relaxation and sheer novelty proved equally therapeutic.

This introduction to northern Iceland perfectly captured the region's character: a place where traditional wellness culture adapts to local innovations, where small communities create world-class experiences, and where the stunning natural environment enhances every human activity. The beer spa experience embodied Akureyri's role as a base for authentic, uniquely Icelandic adventures that simply cannot be replicated elsewhere.

Jun 16

Waterfalls of the Gods

Morning arrived with a light dusting of snow—a reminder that even in June, we were exploring a landscape shaped by Arctic forces. The crystalline air and fresh snowfall created perfect conditions for our day's main adventure: visiting Godafoss waterfall, one of Iceland's most spectacular and historically significant natural landmarks.

The drive to Godafoss required crossing Eyjafjörður fjord through a 7-kilometer tunnel, then continuing through a majestic Arctic valley that showcased northern Iceland's dramatic geography. The landscape evolved from fjord-side communities to increasingly remote mountain terrain, with each kilometer revealing new perspectives on the vast wilderness that defines this region.

Weather conditions proved absolutely perfect for photography and contemplation—dark, overcast skies punctuated by brilliant beams of sunshine breaking through clouds, creating constantly shifting light that enhanced the waterfall's natural drama. These dynamic conditions, combined with our timing just weeks after Iceland reopened to tourists post-pandemic, meant we encountered very few other visitors, allowing for an almost private encounter with one of the country's most celebrated natural wonders.

Godafoss, known as the "Waterfall of the Gods," carries profound historical significance beyond its natural beauty. According to legend, in the year 1000 AD, lawspeaker Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði declared Christianity the official religion of Iceland and threw his Norse god statues into these waters, symbolically ending the pagan era. While historians debate the accuracy of this specific story, Godafoss remains a powerful symbol of Iceland's transition from Viking paganism to Christianity.

The waterfall itself demonstrates nature's artistic power—the Skjálfandafljót River cascades 12 meters over a 30-meter-wide horseshoe-shaped rock formation, creating a spectacular display where thousands of liters of glacial water plunge into the river below. The surrounding volcanic landscape, shaped by ancient lava flows, provides a dramatic setting that seems designed to inspire spiritual contemplation.

Our solitary experience at Godafoss—standing before this magnificent display with only the sound of cascading water and occasional bird calls—provided the kind of profound natural encounter that Iceland delivers to travelers willing to venture beyond the most popular tourist circuits. The combination of historical significance, natural beauty, and perfect weather conditions created memories that would define our understanding of northern Iceland's unique character.

The return journey through the Arctic valley allowed for reflection on how this landscape has shaped Icelandic culture for over a millennium. The vast scale, dramatic weather patterns, and geological forces that created Godafoss continue to influence the Icelandic character—fostering both resilience and deep appreciation for natural beauty that defines the national identity.

Jun 17

Villages at the Edge of the World

Our final day in the Akureyri region began quietly, with plans for a scenic drive along Eyjafjörður fjord to explore remote communities and experience northern Iceland's most dramatic coastal landscapes. The route north from Akureyri follows the fjord's eastern shore through small villages and increasingly wild terrain, each kilometer revealing new perspectives on this vast waterway that cuts deep into Iceland's northern coast.

The drive proved both pleasant and educational, passing several traditional fishing villages that showcase how Icelanders have adapted to life in one of the world's most challenging environments. These communities, with their colorful houses and well-maintained harbors, demonstrate the resilience required to thrive in a landscape where winter brings months of near-darkness and summer provides endless daylight.

Our destination was Siglufjörður, Iceland's northernmost mainland town and a place that embodies the country's transformation from isolated fishing communities to modern tourist destinations. The drive required passage through multiple tunnels carved through mountains, including our first encounter with a one-lane tunnel where opposing traffic must yield to each other—a uniquely Icelandic infrastructure solution that requires quick understanding and careful coordination.

These single-lane tunnels, while initially nerve-wracking, demonstrate Icelandic engineering ingenuity in connecting remote communities across forbidding terrain. The system works through clear signage and driving protocols that reflect the cooperative social spirit that characterizes Icelandic culture. Mastering these tunnel negotiations felt like earning membership in an exclusive club of northern Iceland travelers.

Siglufjörður itself revealed why this remote location has captured international attention in recent years. Once known as the "herring capital of the Atlantic" during its 20th-century boom, the town transformed from Iceland's largest fishing port to a cultural destination renowned for its award-winning Herring Era Museum and annual Folk Music Festival. The colorful houses climbing the steep hillsides around the narrow fjord create a picture-perfect Arctic village that seems lifted from a fairy tale.

The town's dramatic setting—surrounded by towering mountains and accessible only through tunnels or a challenging mountain road—creates an end-of-the-world atmosphere that has inspired crime novelist Ragnar Jónasson's popular "Dark Iceland" series. Walking through Siglufjörður's quiet streets, with their mix of restored fishing-era buildings and modern amenities, provided insights into how remote Icelandic communities balance preservation of their heritage with adaptation to tourism-based economies.

Evening found us back in Akureyri, where we spent peaceful hours in the Akureyri Botanical Garden and exploring the town square. The botanical garden, remarkably one of the world's northernmost, demonstrates how Akureyri's favorable microclimate supports surprising plant diversity just 85 kilometers from the Arctic Circle. Walking through these carefully tended gardens, with over 7,000 plant species thriving in this harsh climate, provided a perfect counterpoint to the day's mountain and coastal adventures.

The evening stroll through Akureyri's compact town center reinforced our appreciation for this northern capital's unique character—a place where serious cultural institutions, innovative restaurants, and stunning natural settings combine to create a quality of life that attracts residents and visitors from across Iceland and beyond. The midnight sun, though not quite at its peak in mid-June, extended our exploration time and created the ethereal lighting conditions that make northern Iceland summers so magical.